dutchzcarguy

Hihi so funny… i go shoft my shifter….

If you made the tiltle you have some weeks to change it.. or month's, don't know.. maybe @Mike can tell..? On topic, why not weld the old fork? Steel or aluminum (aluminium also ? ) i weld both… This week i learnt how to weld with copper/silicium with a MIG... yeah! still learning new tricks!! (it is a colder weld! within days i will show some welds in my thread: restoring a 280zx slick roof.)

zKars, could you rename this thread to the right name of gearbox because no one can find it back later on.. FS5W71B Thanks!

Also for DC current useable.. ( to look at the starting current… at your starter, around 100-130 amps…)

You say FC5W71B ?? you mean the FS5W71B (280zx..) or (in case of the eurotype 240z 5 speed) the FS5C71B ?? i could of course be wrong but i never heard of the FC5W71B .. were does it come out of?

I've got a Beckman multimeter and a voltcraft for the big amps measurement.. only one thing important, buy something you can rely on.. The FLUKE is like a BECKMAN a very good multimeter. I've used them many times at work.

This past week i took out the last piece of carpet. Rarely seen such a clean floor in a 280! Then i have made (again!!?) some fender ends the ones who i made earlyer were F***tup by my good friend (NOT!) Danny, who can't weld… (not saying am a pro in welding but …..anyway..) I gave him a set of 4 lower ends for the frontfenders and he cut those in half just to … i don't know.. Look at the parts you can follow his way? please explain it to me because i can't see it.. Left on pic is my old f***tup part and right my yesterday made new part.. The right one is made out of one piece, the left one is welded on diff sides and pieces put on... what was he thinking??? ? (the cut in it was to measure the width of the cutting tool i used at that moment. (1,3mm) Here i radically cut it off! I don't want this kind of junk, not on my car! (Took the last rusty spots also off!) The left hand side will be made the same way.. on a block of wood. Every part takes about 2-3 hours or metalwork to do it good. So by the time the fenders are ready for paint i'm counting on 25-30 hours with welding and making it smooth… easely..

Welcom, we all want to see some pic's of your (almost) finished car! If your interested in some 240z bumpers i'n in the town of Gennep near you! I think i'm one on the few that have 4 sets of bumpers left for a 240/260z and they look also nice on a 280z! I've got a 240z and i'm restoring a 280zx slick roof, first euro edition..1979.. it's in the zx section here! Greetings, Mart.

No good , not fuel resistant.. buy a piece of tubing that is fuel-resistant. Clamps with double ring, you see them on every Z engine! here on the right.. Here on the mid-bottom..

Does somebody know a trick to get in the torsionbars inbetween the hood hinges, thought i ask here before making an attempt .. it can be hazardous! 240's have them to.. just a bit different.

Use the double ring clamps as they are Original and… they are also used in the airplane-industry.. and what good is for an airplane is good enough for our Datsuns!

Btw.. this car gets a brand-new hood Original Nissan.. 65100-P7900 Hood. (Also Bonnet! ? to the British.. )

Yesterday made some pics of a few spots that needed a little bit of putty. And on the front i'm putting all the puzzle parts together to get it fit the right way before paint..

Haha, i just realized.. that's dutch!

You remind me now of thinking to modify some 240z bumpers and put those on a 280zx.. chrome bumpers, i like them but.. no.. the car is completely Original, i should not mess with that.. There is a guy working on my car at the painter… He must be in his 60's and he told me yesterday he is doing this kind of work for over 51 years!!! So, if he can't make it perfectly straight, no-one can!

Last saterday the car went to the painter.. He says it's going to stay there for about 3-4 month.. A sheet metalworker is going to finish the last bits.. some small dents and make everything good for sealer and primer. I can do some sanding in his shop,and putting al the part together to check if it all stil fits together before painting.

Haha.. remember an old friend.. he was welding with acetylene under a Mercedes S class.. welded through the fuel lines ones.. (on one spot they had a sort of plastic part in the line he did'nt know about.) The fuel came out at very small amounts and every time the line catched fire he blew it out ! Haha.. yes with his mouth! ?

Sorry, but i had to laugh at that sentense.. I also once had a (ex)car like that… it was a Dutch Original car.. these are mostly all rotted away.. I had 2 giant holes sawn in the floor.. If you do that look if you have to brace it.. there is nothing so bad as finding out the door won't fit after you welded a new floor in a car. (never had that myself luckely) Pic. 2 looks not scary.. the 3th.. does a bit... If i were you i would look for a clean chassis.. they must be around for not to much "Dinero" ? as we overhere say: Pegels! hahaha..

It looks simular to the '79 i saw.. Funny those cooling devises on the "IC's".. Btw... we talked about the 6801 and 6802... I made a mistake.. i learned to program 6502 not 6802 and the commodore64 had a processor that was close to that one, the 6510! But the 6802 probably has the 6502 processor in it..(?) besides rom and ram.. (I think i start a thread pure about the different controll units in a 280zx one of these days..)

In 1985 a commodore 64 ran on 1 Mhz.. It could be possible that this 6801 ran on 4.. take a scope and find out! ? I once opened an '79 280zx "ecu" and it had a few round 10-12 wire (in a circle) "integrated circuits", the precursor of the integrated circuit as we know them today.?

That would be nice to see! and a copy of the circuit diagram too! Very interesting.. Yep! Just like the 6810! That was the processor found in the commodore 64! ( in 1985 i builded a plotter that was controlled by the commodore 64!)

View Advert Front bumper 240/260z rubber left & right. New old stock front bumper 240z/260z? rubber parts the rubber is fairly soft. Pictured cleaned and not cleaned to let you see the good quality it's in! I've seen these go for 200 euro a piece on ebay and those were in a bad state... My price 300 euro for the pair. Advertiser dutchzcarguy Date 11/13/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale

If it's a P90a head and does not have the hydrolic valves and has been modified.. think you now know the problem…

don't know much about the subject but when i read the headline i thought: sticking valves… Maybe the problem go's away after a good warm-up.. the valves are a bit thight in the guides.. Also.. isn't a P90a head equipped with hydrolic valves? P90 is not.. the P90a is! (i think… ?)

And again i learnt something! I've learnt in those years early '80 to program the 6802 …. 1 more than the 6801 haha... funny! does the NA also have the 6801 or only the turbo version? The turbo came only in 1983 in the Netherlands! We had no 1981 or '82 turbo version.. they were all NA. the turbo was an extra car imported in 1983, and 1984 came the first 300zx's..