dutchzcarguy

Hey, Charles, i just took a look at your picture on the frontpage of your topic and i thought it would be nice when you have your project finished to take a pic like that and put it at the end of this story accompanied with the first pic! We might get to see some gray hairs? (or even yellow hair from the paintbooth! 😁 )

Yeah! When restoring first.. make pictures, when bussy.. make pictures.. when taking apart FIRST MAKE PICTURES!!! when looking for new parts USE PICTURES , when installing make... yes.. pictures! So the message is: MAKE lots of pictures! AND THEN THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP: TAKE THEM FROM DIFFERENT ANGLES.. (it's SO frustrating when you do have a pic with that one cable on it but you can;t see (in that angle) where it go's exactly.. this as a example..) Remember also a pic is 2 dimensional and it's not always clear how things get together.. For example this with one special angle..

No.. dielectric grease is to keep water out of electric connectors.. it does NOT have conductivity.. it isolates! Coppergrease does not but if it's the right stuff to use? I would make the connection very clean and after connecting leave some coppergrease on it. (so not in between the connecting parts.) maybe google for some electric conducting stuff? Maybe you could use some petroliumgelly like you do on battery poles to keep them from oxidating? (petroliumgelly does also not conduct electricity.. so not in between the connectors, on a battery pole it's different as the clamp wil make contact through the gelly as it's high clamping force.)

Yeah.. doing U-joints is not a fun job.. When you send them halfshafts for balancing do you also balance the propshaft as it is a even faster turning part? I would do that!

HUH? I don't see any of these pic's .. what are you guys talking about??? 😮

It turned out very well! and also the orig turbo tire sizes on it! Nice car.. as i got the same car (Yes in silver KL0) i clearly missed the spoiler on the rear.. but i also like the look without that thing. Any chance that you have the color code for that rim paint/powdercoat stuff? Mine are now 31 years old and a bit fading. (but still good as they are really old.) OR does someone know the paintcode for the original z32 wheels?

I think that's the french word for Psi. They USE.. kg/cm2 .. Maybe it's standing there for the canadians that speak french? France is europe.. and europe is Metric 🙂 I believe in Metric pressure is in kilo-pascal .. I'm prefering (as many) Bar or Ato or kg/cm2 (also kgf/cm2 .. f stands for force.) Google says/comes with: The bar is a metric unit of pressure, but not part of the International System of Units (SI). It is defined as exactly equal to 100,000 Pa (100 kPa), or slightly less than the current average atmospheric pressure on Earth at sea level (approximately 1.013 bar). By the barometric formula, 1 bar is roughly the atmospheric pressure on Earth at an altitude of 111 metres at 15 °C. YEAH! I thought i see 1 cylinder but there are 2 cylinders in the " cylindrical" shape.. the first big cyl. feeding the second smaller one.. good system! Yes.. After some calc.. hihi so your also a 60's born? i'm from '61 you are stil young from '69 haha.. My compressor is also from the later '90's but a much smaller on of just 2 horsepowersss.. 😉 Enough for some airtools.

This has been discussed many times.. rule is that you just look if the camshaft is well oiled at idle.. then your okay! keep the idle at 650 rpm and your fine.

For many many long time?? Tell me, what where you drinking? 🤣 And what does that type of radiator do in a Z? never seen one. And what was your question to whom?

Nice big compressor! Psi i do understand as it is pounds per square inch.. something like we have kg/cm2. But what is: lb-po2 ???? I googled it but i get some explanation about oxigen in blood? So what does lb-po2 mean? anyone? Another question would be, how can a compressor say it's a 2 stage, when it has only .. appears to have only 1 cylinder? Most 2 stage compressors have more cylinders yours could have 2 cylinders parallel i don't know.. here a example of a 2 stage compressor. 2 cyl. pump into a third and make some high compressed air.. The top and right cylinder pump into the left cylinder. Also.. to cool the compressed air the lines are ribbed to cool.

And.. you can always temporarely set the max pressure higher for the occasional sandblasting.. IF all your equipment can stand the pressure ofcourse! But best is to make FATTER lines tubes and pipes! More air is best. (And a tip to others that look for a compressor, get yourself a small tank and big diameter pipes (They can even be made with PVC high pressure piping and glued together these days.) The pipes deliver a lot of air and are also the tank!)

Just took a closer look at the rest of your very nice red zcar and ask myself why you still have the "overrider" (?) on it.. that thing normally hanging over the 280z Bench-bumper? Because of paintwork?

I'm sure it is not.. That also why there are stage-compressors. It says so on your tank (inline6) but i don't recognize it as such.. staged compressors have cylinders in cascade on your compressor i see only 1 cylinder? Often stage compr. have 3 cylinders were 2 feed 1 to go to extra high pressure.. It also needs cooling as those high pressures get you a lot of heat you don't want (expansion) . Are you sure the compressor is as old as the tank because the tank says stage but i see a 1 cylinder.. or is it a 2 parallel pistons? But anyway, i would not go over 8 bar as it saves you the cylinder(s) and piston(s).

A nice '70's look! I often ask myself when i see those louvers would they stay on when i'm on the german "autobahn" doing 200+ kmph? And are they not noisy, i never had them, we don't use them as it was not that hot often overhere.

And i sure hope there is a Pres.Max sensor/outlet (of 150psi/10bar or so) on the tank.. as a explosion is not something you want in your workarea! What's the limit of your tank?

Offcourse it's harder to go to a higher pressure and it's unneccessary.. in europe these compressors go max 8 ato/bar some rarely go to 10 ato/bar ( 120psi/150psi) It's better to use bigger diameter pipes/hoses as there is more liters/min. going to your tools. Going over 8 ato. is always a pain for any compressor.. Always means more waer and maintenance on internal parts. For as far i worked on compressors, they have always adjustable pressure switches. (offcourse sandblasting is a job for very powerfull compressors. exeding 10+ Hp easely.. you need 500 ltr/min and more. You can do this with smaller compressors but it will take a lot of time.)

Hai Route 66, welcome here.. If you want that kind of silver i recommend you to go for the nissan 300zxtt silver (number is: KL0) It's as brite and you keep it in the family!

Buy 240 (!) 240z's instead of 1 ? wow.. they where cheap.. i remember i bought a (very rusty) 240z from 1972 for 1250 guilders i guess about 400$ in 1991.. I stopped with the project within a year or so, took all the good parts off and brought the chassis to the scrapyard.. i'm still selling parts of that car! In 1998 i bought my second 240z.. i'm still driving it! It needs new rubbers and a all new paintjob and yes i agree with your list.. orig rubber and paint color (901 silver) is on the list. Mine still has the stock front valence but very ugly rear fenders.. they need to go at some point. (orig. weld in parts are on the attic.) But i need to finish my 280zx engineroom first.....

If you could advertise it in Germany, and it's a orig ragtop.. (and the right paperwork) , i think you would get a very nice price for it!!

I bought some from AC carpet in alabama i belief they are.. sended me the wrong ones for a 2 seater instead of the 2+2.. i found out when i was to late to return them. they make one for the 280zx maybe also for the 280z.. BUT.. they don't make the rear part with the openings for the straps.. all sayd.. they make a bad copy. 🤢 Yours looks like someone (tried to) paint(ed) it with some black interior paint?

A fault easely made.. and maybe you can find that cable in a service manual? (schematic diagram)

Sumitomo sounds familiar.. the 240z has them but i think.. only with a no 6 angled sparkplug boot? As these cables are now over 35 years old i don't think they can work very well. After a good clean they could be used on a engine that's under someone's coffeetable just for the looks! (It's possible that the 280z original has 2 angled sp.pl.boots.. as my 280zx has 2 two eh too twoo too.. 2 also eh sigh😁..) My experience with old cables.. About 2 years ago i did about 1000 km on my 280zx resto and those sparkplugcables were the original 1979 cables, they worked well (some special isolating spray over them) but.. i'm now restoring the engineroom ( for over 2 years! sigh) and already installed some orig. nissan leads that i bought some years ago special for this restore. I'm not sure these are sumitomo, but came out a nissan box..

Don't see them.. i do see a red one with a BLUE line on it and a black with male bullit.. i don't know where it's for but the black with male bullit is the negative side..🙂

Thanks Zedhead for the info.. you gave ... on April 1st..

I thought maybe it's for coolant in/out from a AC equipped version? sigh..