heyitsrama

Yo sweaty, where did you get that sick inline coolant temp sender?

It looks like it's just riveted in there, I would get see if you can replicate the shape of the holder with some metal, not sure the gauge, if you have a micrometer (or harbor freight has this in/metric one that I use for small stuff) take some measurements. Looks like a little fold + some snips to make the arm. A small file (triangle?) for the notch that grips the rocker. If you cut out the center portion of it to make the arms, consider cutting strips, then prying back and forth for a clean break. If you can do all that, consider drilling the rivet out, then placing a new one in. Now my question would be does it matter about the copper rivet. I wanna say no, but I'm not a scientist. U can do it!

still have these wheels?

Yes sir, wanna take a picture without the rocker?

Maybe you can even remove the whole bracket that holds it down, and make a new one. It looks like it's just a few cuts and folds.

Cut some metal and solder it together.... or JB weld.... it's not totally lost, don't throw it out

I was driving in the hills of SF on Tuesday and thought to myself. Could not stop laughing. Do you guys have to get cars smogged in Canada?

I don't mean to thread hijack, but when addressing bushings on the car, would it be better to approach them all together? Or rather in front/rear/subsystem sets? Does it depend on on bushing compound?

Zs are actually the worst cars, there is no need to ever buy any of them. >.>

A relay/fuse combination to something related to the ignition would be an option. Or both/multiple. I advocate multiple, and don't tell anyone about all of them [emoji102]. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That's a clean Z, yeah I'm with granny on that one, no flares on that, the chassis looks too good. Would definitely put one a series 1 rear and front bumper. It would look [emoji1419]. Esp with all the little chrome accents. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

OH! You do have a menu tab! I did not even see it, it blends into the fender of the Z on the header. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

This guide can get you started on HTTPS if you provider is listed. https://community.letsencrypt.org/t/web-hosting-who-support-lets-encrypt/6920 I was thinking something like an index page, here is an example I saw online. http://julian.io/projects/ My site has something similar, but I just run it off the homepage. https://www.specterbyte.com Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Bookmarked! Can I request that you enable https on the site? Also some way to see all available posts on the site. I just got mine finished with letsencrypt it was free Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yeah I think baking would be a required step for the interior paint? Would hate for a chip of paint to clog an oil passage.

I had some really good luck with VHT sp127 for aluminum color, soda blasted a CB550 motor I picked up to rebuild, and repainted it with it. For prep I did: Soda blast Water wash Acetone spray (bottle) Primer Heat (halogen lamps) Paint Heat (oven bake) There was really not much paint particles from the paint in the oven, but I did it in my moms old oven before she tossed it out for a new one. I suspect that you could do it at home in the kitchen, just make sure the wife is at work. Now what everyone wants... pictures. I even painted my fan shroud I made the other day with the same paint. It's pretty solid imo. As far as reducing "bling" I usually go for brushed aluminum. This bike has accessories done in that style. http://www.motomucci.com/2014/10/dreamone50-full-shoot-by-patrick-daly.html?m=1

Well it just that the blinky is just like a visual confirmation of the system (if it exists) but something that would interfere with the ignition would be a better deterrent. I think ultimately thats what we would want, something that is going to immobilize the car unless its the owner.

Those blinkies should work nice, but I think using some type of relay that could be removed for the ignition would be cool too Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hey when working on the sections where something structural is cut out (frame rail, firewall portions, doglegs) what is done to mitigate the chassis from moving around/bending? That passenger frame rail shot looks completely nuts. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Was there a specific RPM range that it did not like to be within? How do the spark plugs look? Fixing it is where the fun is

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/5963306625.html\ I mean if you want a 280 in Cali, it's not bad at all.

I almost finished up my front brakes today, just waiting on some retaining pin hardware. The bleeding was interesting, after changing the master cylinder, and removing the calipers to change the seals, it must have took 1.5 min of pumping to get the fluid to start coming out of the bleeder. I have access to a hand bleeder, ill try removing some more tomorrow after the air has "settled" Kinda scared of the booster failing on me, what happens when it fails? does the depress of the petal get harder? Mine also has that rust between the booster and the master, but I think thats from the old master failing. perhaps I should inspect the booster tomorrow. They seem expensive, $250 to replace? No diaphragm repair?

I always wondered if they stopped at 75 because things after that were fuel injected (at least Z's, we don't care about other cars anyway [emoji57]) Yeah in 2005 they changed a bunch of laws, maybe it was the Govenator...... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

was the block decked or the head resurfaced?