Mark Maras

I've used Greyhound Package Express to ship large Z parts. Price was affordable and everything has always arrived in good shape, even glass.

I've never worked on three screw SUs but I recall that the float cover must be rotated to remove it. If you're referring to the float pivot pin, it should just push out of the float cover bosses with finger pressure. Fuel running out of the stacks would indicate that a float is stuck, needle and seat are leaking or the float level is set too high. I think the markings on the butterfly are from ZTherapy. Premier SU rebuilders in Salem Or. Is the piston pin you referred to, the brass jet needle? If so the needle may be bent or the nozzle may need to be re-centered. Try screwing the mixture adjustment 2 1/2 turns down from the top and see if the piston is still dragging on something.

@maximus35 Jai's 76 is an early one. As I understand it there was a change in the bumpers mid year. She does need both end pieces and the long center rubber strip. BTW. She lives in Chatsworth, Geo.

@Patcon Jai needs both side pieces and the long rubber? center strip.

Sounds like the carbs are out of balance. Any early Z shop manual will tell you how to balance them. It's not difficult. I'd start with resetting the nozzles 2 1/2 turns down and then going thru the balance procedure. Dist. is usually set at around 10 degrees advance. There is a good thread about SU tuning. Google "Quick and dirty SU tuning.

Using crude measurements, I think it will come out. The restriction seems to be the rolled bead at the end. Might have to open up the end a bit. The bead was probably formed after assembly. If the rubber gets hung up in the bead, I'd cut a piece of beer can to use as an inner sleeve to ease it past that spot.

@jalexquijano LOOKIN GOOD. The plugs are definitely lighter than we used to run the "back in the day" but you report the engine is running good so I'd leave it alone. I think the problem with #4 was in the cap, rotor or plug wire connection. #4 definitely looks better now. The lighter plug color could be due to modern gas formulations as reported by others. I'm still curious about that previous lower compression reading. I'm hoping it was a poor test and not tight valves. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the reminder. We never did get to the bottom of that. @jalexquijano What about the low compression readings the last time around? My assumption is it was either a botched compression test or the valves were set to tight. Do you have an explanation?

I don't remember compression readings that low. Probably just me. @jalexquijano What were the compression readings the last time they were taken?

@jalexquijano Note the louvered access flaps alongside the hood. Those will help dissipate engine bay heat when the car is sitting. One could accomplish the same thing with a vented late 280 hood. As I recall, RossiZ's late 280 has both.

IMO the slow response in first gear is the nature of the beast and is likely made a bit worse with the upgraded camshaft. I'm assuming that around 3000 RPMs it starts pulling strong. A lighter flywheel could help it a bit in the lower RPMs but a heavier flywheel is better for stop and go traffic.

I see painted divots. Looks like it had rusted prior to a repaint.

CLR for the sending unit. A 48 hour soak will convert it from scrap metal to a usable unit.

I soaked a corroded stuck valve in CLR. After soaking it for 48 hours the valve moved easily and sealed.

and we promise we'll try our best not to tell you to go buy more new plugs.

@Lumens He didn't mention #4 still having problems. I asked about #4 just to satisfy my curiosity.

@jalexquijano I'm assuming you mean it won't start without using the choke? Will it start using 1/2 choke or even 1/4 choke? You may not need full choke to start it. Too much choke, even for a few minutes, can carbon up the plugs and exhaust. How well is running these days when it's warm? Any more problems with #4 or did the cap and rotor fix it?

@jalexquijano Have you ever tried starting it without the choke when it's cold? If not, give it a try. I'm curious how well it will run and drive under those conditions.

@smackhq Really, it's gone? I haven't been over there today but it's still in inventory on their website.

@smackhq Just got back from Pick-n-Pull, Portland south. 111th and SE Foster. They've got a 77 sitting there with the running gear intact. I noticed that it still had the AC compressor attached to the engine. Injection is gone as well as much of the interior. The valve cover was loose so I looked inside. Aside from a few spots of very light surface rust on the lobes it looks good. It has had regular oil changes judging from the total lack of sludge. Dash is gone so no estimate of the mileage. Harmonic balancer was gone or I would have tried to turn it over. The hood is off, manifolds are off, everything is disconnected. The engine is just sitting there begging to be pulled. PnP engine price is $197.99 with a $29.99 core charge. Estimated time from Kent to Portland about three hours. Time to pull the engine and get it into a transporter, less than one hour, with my help, if desired. Now the sad part of the story. The body has little rust. Battery area has a small spot of surface rust. Hatch latch panel is near pristine. Floors look good. Frame rails look good. Tire well looks good. Doglegs look good. A couple of bubbles in the door bottoms. It's really a shame. I have three Z bodies and this one is in better shape than any of mine.

I think I'd try using some Caig DeoxIT on all the connection points.

Smush, Smush.

@jalexquijano DON"T TAKE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT. Don't oil anything. For now, Just replace the distributor cap, rotor and #4 plug. I still want to know if any other plugs were sooty. If you used too much choke or left it on too long the the last time you warmed it up, it's likely that all the plugs look like #4. #1 Don't fix what ain't broke. #2 Check the other plugs. #3 Replace the Dist. cap, rotor and #4 if it's the only one that 's black. #4 Be sure that all the wires are fully inserted into the cap. #5 Drive it and report back.

@jalexquijano Did you look at any of the other plugs? It would be a good idea just to confirm the rest look OK. If they look good I'd just replace the cap, rotor and # 4 plug. I don't think I'd spray anything just yet. If five of the six plugs look good the problem is narrowed down to the cap, rotor or plug wire, assuming the compression is still good. Do you have access to an ohm meter?

@JackT Check out page nine. It has a description and the part #s used in the V-3 mod. Relay A-25235-PO100. Relay B-25230-89915