Mark Maras

It very well could be the one I need. Or I can adapt it to work. I think that my front cover has 1 screw hole but I'll check tonight when I get home. Right now I'm thinking that I could drill and tap the front cover and locate the degreed tab in the proper location. I'll get back to you tonight. Thanks Mark in Portland

Update on pulley swap I changed the pulleys. I now have the larger 2 sheave pulley on the L24. With the engine on #1 TDC the single mark on the pulley is about 1/2" to the right of the pointer on the cover. Not a big deal. Same plan as before, either find a degreed timing tab for the front cover or re-mark the pulley for the proper timing. Mark in Portland

Your advice makes perfect sense. I remember the poor idle voltage in my first Z. Using the larger pulley really is the right way to go. The radiator is out of the car, easy access, Now I have to track down a thin wall socket to remove the crank bolt. My impact sockets are too thick. The timing markers are a potential problem, I don't have the timing tab that goes on the L26. The front cover tab on the L24 is a pointer and the pulley from the L26 has one timing mark. Either I track down a L26 degreed timing tab or after making sure that the 2 marks line up on #1 top dead center, file new timing marks in the pulley. Anyone got a timing tab from an early L26? Thanks for the advice, Now I'm off to find a socket. Mark in Portland

I think we'll need the definition of "pretty solid". One of the easiest ways of defining "pretty solid" is with an ice pick or other sharp implement of destruction. The force of your poking and or stabbing is directly proportional to the strength of the remaining steel. As far as the pitted sections, just normal bodywork and paint. Good luck and wear gloves. Mark In Portland

I bought a project 260Z a few months back and I'm sorting out what I have and I need help with harmonic balancer I.D. Now for a little background. The previous owner bought the 74, not running, with a reported blown head gasket. He pulled an engine from a 75 Z and installed it and couldn't get it running. I'm now discovering why. The original engine came as a spare with the car. Here's where it gets interesting.The original engine [spare with the blown HG] is a L26- #072285 P30 with a E88 head. The engine in the car, pulled from a 75, is a L24 #125191 with a E88 head. Back to the balancers, The balancer on the L24 is a three sheave pulley and has 5 timing marks. The 2 inner sheaves are 5" OD. Outer sheave is 5 3/4" OD. It has a 1/2" setback looking at the front and the bolt is recessed in a very tight hole. The balancer on the L26 is a 2 sheave pulley with 1 timing mark. The inner sheave is 5 7/8" OD and the front sheave is 5 1/4" OD. with a 1 1/4" setback and the bolt head is exposed. My alternator has a 3" OD sheave. My choice is to drive the alternator with a 5 7/8" pulley or a 5" but at this time I don't really know if either is correct. And just to confuse you a little more, I have a Series 1 available for parts. Mark in portland

I read the reviews. As expected, some swear by them others swear at them. A question that arises in their use is continuity to all parts of the chassis or the lack there of. The only one I've seen installed is on a Scarab. It is driven on a very limited basis in dry weather and stored in a very dry shop. It came on the car so the owner doesn't know anything about it but he has left it on just in case it does work. There seems to be two types of these that supply a trickle of current through the chassis. Ruststop.net advertises a unit that adds sacrificial anodes to the system that are attached to the chassis and wired into the unit. Honestly, I don't know if this is an improvement or just more smoke and mirrors. I tend to think that adding anodes to the mix could improve it but I don't have the expertise to really know. I don't plan on abandoning any rust removal or treatment of the conventional type, just want to try to improve on the longevity of my second Z. I still have my first Z, a Series 1, if anyone needs goodies from it. Mark in Portland

I was told a long time ago that all drivers who are slower than you are idiots and all drivers faster than you are maniacs. Funny thing, the percentage of maniacs dropped to almost 0 after I bought my first Z. It seemed as though all those maniacs had morphed into idiots. I still encounter them to this day. Drive safe and have fun. Mark in Portland

It's time for a volt-ohm meter. Start at the battery and follow the power to the fuse block. If you have power to the fuse block, check individual circuits to their destination. I'm a bit surprised that you have brake lights but not headlights. There are only a few circuits that are not switched on with the ignition. Anyway, don't let the project scare you. I haven't heard my 260Z run yet either. What a celebration there will be when it's running. Mark in Portland

I ran ATF in my SUs for decades and never had an issue with it. I suspect that one could tweak the mixture a bit and get ATF to work. Truthfully I don't know why it worked on mine. Perhaps because I am a bit obsessive when it comes to keeping SUs clean and tuned. I never had a reason to try anything else. I've seen many opinions on carb oil, I'd like to hear some input from people that have used different weight oils. Mark in Portland

I'm inclined to agree with all of you. Has anyone tried any of those rust preventers that run a trickle of current through the chassis either with or without sacrificial anodes? Some people swear by them, others swear at them. I'm assuming the supplied trickle of electricity is a substitute for the wet conditions that would normally drive the galvanic process. Testimonials, Anyone? Mark in Portland

Has anyone ever tried sacrificial anodes attached to the inside or outside of the frame rails to ward off rust? They could be made of zinc, magnesium or aluminum. In the shipyards they use zinc ingots cast with steel straps that weld onto the hull. They had to be replaced every few years due to the effects of salt water corrosion but on a car they should last a long time. Also, any thoughts about the use of cold galvanizing spray as a bare metal primer? My 74 S30 project will be going up on stands soon so I can finish opening my holiday present, Then I'll find out whether I got gold or a lump of coal. I've tried many rust treatment products over the years with dissapointing results. This time, it's going to be phosphoric acid to convert the rust, if I can't remove it, and a topcoat, as yet not selected. If possible, I'm going to include an anode to prevent new rust from forming. I'd like to hear anyone's thoughts about the idea or any products already out there that could be used as a sacrificial anode. Mark in Portland

Welcome.There's plenty of information here, as well as people who love to share it. I wish you luck and patience in your search,The amount of rust that you will have to contend with, will depend on the depths of your wallet, time and talents. That said, what on earth is driving you into Z addiction? If you think there is a way out, you are sadly mistaken. The term Z rehab is for the cars, not the owners, Think twice, It may not be too late....But if it is too late, a Z in the snow and ice can be great fun. they don't use salt on the roads here. Mark in Portland

Sorry for the missed opportunity. Have faith, another one will turn up. I mlssed out on a few before I realized that to get one, I had to have cash in hand and move on it before anyone else had the chance. Although I didn't end up with the 240 I wanted, I did find a 260 that has 92,000 miles, a little rust and 2 engines for $1350.00. I don't know how far you'll go for a Z but if the Pacific Northwest is an option let us know what you want and we will keep an eye out for one. Right now I know of a 260 in a barn south of Portland. Mark in Portland

Automatic vs. Manual transmission I'm going to try to be impartial, even though I despise automatic transmissions more than a prolonged toothache. I believe that driving a stick actually will make you a better driver. To drive a stick properly, you must anticipate your next action. As cars get easier to drive, more and more of the decision making process is delegated to the car. Don't believe me? Self piloting cars are the new techno goal. The texting, tweeting, cell phone talking drivers will welcome the opportunity to be driven by their car, and maybe they should be. It might be safer for the rest of us. However, I love a stick because I love the anticipation of what's next. The more you put into anything the more you get out of it. Not to say, an automatic Z wouldn't be fun, just that a stick would add to the experience for me and keep me much more attentive to my driving. Mark in Portland

Thanks everyone, Portland drivers don't seem quite as bad as I once thought. they are generally courteous but they think using turn signals is a sign of weakness, Yes we have some that do the usual things but we have some that can get quite creative, Cutting across 3 lanes of traffic going 55mph without a turn signal while using the mirror on her visor to put on mascara to try to get to an off ramp that she had already passed. Let's stop with generalities and get down to individual incidents of stupdity. We all have tales about stupid drivers, Mark in Portland

The little clip that holds the window knob on can easily be removed by pulling the center of a rag behind the knob and pull the rag back and forth. the rag will catch the end of the clip and pop it off..Those clips in Portland are known as Dammit clips because you can't find them after removal. Mark in Portland

If you want refinment go with the 280. The 240s are a basic sports car. kind of like the difference between a Ferrari and a Lambo. Both great cars, but a different driving experience. I prefer the 240's but I'm a little eccentric. The 240's are easier for me to work on, nothing fancy, just a good basic fun car. Mark in Portland

Let me know if you need some help. We almost lost a 1st Gen. RX7 the same way. We rewired most of the burned harness. Everything works great. I also have an early 71 Z that has everything intact should you need anything. Have you thought about the possibility of replacing the burned wires yourself? It always looks like an impossible job, but just like eating an elephant, it's one bite at a time. I recommend soldered connections and shrink tubing. Break it down into single wire repairs and reference a good wiring diagram. You can do it. Mark in Portland

There is only a small percentage of the drivers out there that truly love to drive. For the rest, it's just another thing they have to do to get somewhere on time. In all fairness, they have never had a Z experience, "They" don't understand why on earth anyone would choose to drive and work on an old two-seater especially with a manual transmission. Well, OK, Maybe we're a little "eccentric", But the fact is, we love to drive. The solution to crappy drivers is stay as far away from them as possible and play a prophecy game. Try to guess what the hell they're going to do next. You'll be surprised how well it works. P.S. If you time them right, freeway on ramps can be a lot of fun. Mark in Portland

Welcome This such a great opportunity for you and your dad. You have found the best Z addiction site. Everyone has plenty of knowledge and encouragement to share. Keep us informed about the selection process and get your dad on here too. Many of us got our first Z experience back in the 70s and love to hear old Z related tales. Mark in Portland

I've got a set of DGVs at home. I'll look tonight and get back to you. Typically tightening the mixture screws will lean them out. Mark in Portland

Pull the brake pads, Assuming everything is dusty, dry and looking good, lightly sand the pads & discs using 220 or finer sandpaper in a tight circular motion, The idea is to remove the shiny glaze and make it look swirly. The auto-parts stores have a product in a tube that you squeeze onto the back of the pads, It reminded me of Tool Dip when I used it. I don't remember the name but there are probably many similar products out there. Good Luck Mark in Portland

Now that's a repair that I like. Nothing to tear down, just another good reason to go fast. I hope it continues to work for you. What brand brakes did you buy? It might help some of us to avoid the potential problem. Mark in Portland

Before you start on the weak electical. make sure that any add-on wiring is from a fused source. I almost lost a 1st. Gen. RX7 that started on fire in the driveway because of a lousy wiring job. I would start by cleaning all connections, both hot and ground. I found that this alone frequently will clear up the electrical gremlins that plague old cars. If that doesn't do it then go at it with your multi-meter and start checking voltage at the fuse block and follow the wire to it's destination. Anything that is dim is probably a poor connection. Mark in Portland

Hi bajcsi I'm not familiar with the item called a timesert. Assuming that it is a thread insert. I'm guessing that the insert is leaking between the insert and the head. If #3 is leaking and #3 was repaired, I think you will have to redo the thread repair or replace the head. Anyone else with an idea? Mark in Portland