Mark Maras

Be sure to pour enough solvent into the port to submerge the entire valve head. I've always wondered why designers didn't use more bolts to seal sheet metal covers properly. Seems there is never enough. Hmm, It doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to fab. a full length reinforcing plate for both sides. Has anyone tried it?

Rubbing alcohol may have too much water in it. I did a test using water, vs mineral spirits a while back. Started with water and it showed no leaks. Then tried m.s. and it leaked. I think the reason that m.s. worked better is because the valve and seat had trace amounts of oil on them. The water wouldn't seep past the two oily surfaces. IMO any solvent from acetone to xylene will do the job as long as it will mix with oil.

When you're done lapping the valves and have installed the springs, tip the head port side up and pour any solvent you have into the ports. Take a look in the combustion chamber. If the valves are sealed, no solvent will seep past the seats.

When I had driveshaft & u-joint problems. The vibration was much faster than a drum roll. Sounded like a 100 lb. bumblebee. The vibration was a buzz not even close to a drum roll. I agree with ZH. Time to look at the mounts.

IMO, If the rattling, hammering sound, at 60 mph, is more like a buzz, it is probably coming from the drive shaft. It spins about 3 1/2 times faster than the axles. Try to determine if the sound frequency matches axle or drive shaft speed.

I do like it. It blends that Z look in the rear while seducing us with E Type curves in front.

Unfortunately no, but I haven't given up on it yet. On my original visit, I thought someone was home but wouldn't come to the door. Left a note but didn't get a response. After thinking about it , I didn't want to appear pushy. Thought it best to let some time go by and approach it again later. I'm assembling the parts that you and Zup need. One more door to disassemble and I think I'll have them all.

IMO it has to be either air or a bad seal in the MC. If you're SURE the MC didn't run dry at any point during the bleed procedure, I'd remove, disassemble & inspect the MC to make sure the problem isn't internal. You mentioned the MC was new. Was it by any chance new(rebuilt)? There was a recent discussion about foreign matter being found in rebuilt MCs.

I'd replace it. You shouldn't have much trouble sourcing another crankshaft. At the very least, you'll be using the marks on the balancer to set the ignition timing. Worst case scenario, Big, expensive problems at the front of the engine if anything breaks. Also, check your balancer to be sure the bond between the two pieces isn't compromised. They've been known to separate at speed with ugly results.

I'm ready to thank that DIY Hoser up North. He taught me a clever method that seemingly most of the industrialized world already knew. ZH, I'm curious why the method couldn't be used on blocks or manifolds? I must be missing something.

Had to listen to him a couple of times but he said 30 hrs. I think that may be optimistic but after reading a few forums It appears that this method is used by many people in the repair bus. A fellow in the musical instrument repair bus. says steel screws broken off in brass instruments used to be a problem. Now they submerge the brass part in boiling alum and water and the screw disappears. I agree with Zed Head. IF the method works that well and depends on electrolysis, the threads on the stud should be the first to go. Maybe pluck it out in 10 hours. No need to make it disappear. The 30 hr. wait may have more to do with drugs.

This was to good to be true until I Googled the subject. It appears to be true. Apparently this method will remove a ferrous screw, bolt, etc. from any non-ferrous metal. It will still require removing the manifold(s) on a Z but being able to let the bolt dissolve instead of fighting it with implements of destruction is fantastic. Oh yeah, one more thing. This method will also dissolve the stud and anything else that broke off in the stud such as a drill bit, tap or a bolt extractor. Who's going to the first to try it? Alum is avail. in the spice section of WM. I checked my spares hoping? that I had a head with a broken stud. No luck?

I've been curious about the slots for a long time. What was their purpose?

If it was being offered by a politician, he, she would explain that they had just "mis-spoke" about the rust.

Til you get it fixed, you might try Rain-X Interior Glass Anti-Fog. It's nerve-wracking driving with limited vision. I remember one cold winter morning when I was scraping frost on the inside glass. What a PITA.

Left side is hung from the tree. I don't think Fred Flintstone, in the front, is going far. Also looks like ET is helping in the rear.(legs) Or could the whole set-up be a Possum Lodge rotisserie?

Weight is my guess. Judging by the unverified tales i've heard, they were trying to shave lbs. from the proto type and were determined to trim the car down to 2400 lbs. Or is this just another fabrication that has been passed around so long that it has become "fact"?

I wouldn't let one side set up before torqueing. djwarner tightens in a circular pattern. I've always treated them like a head gasket. tighten from the center out. I doubt the direction is as important as clean surfaces, no dimples and most important. GRADUALLY tighten them but don't over tighten. DJwarner, What is the torque torque spec. for pan bolts?

To solve the problem of slipping gaskets on small block Chevy valve covers, we would tie the gasket to the cover, thru the mounting holes with thread. Just cut off the exposed thread after torqueing.

Busted!

Interesting estimates. Patcon, Was it the front or the rear that you could lift? I'm guessing the front. 350 lbs. does sound a bit on the light side. Comparing the two cars I'm working on, one of them would be about 75-100 lbs. lighter than the other due to rust.

What is the weight of a stripped body? I've got one stripped of everything but the suspension and it already feels as if a good push would tip it off the jackstands.

Wisdom

Back to the subject of heated carbs for a moment. I was looking at the ZTherapys' master price list in the core charge section and found this advice. "Intake halves without the water pipes available on request. The water HEATS the intake charge. GOOD in the Montana winter. BAD year round in LA. Don't run water, unless your Z is cold blooded to distraction." Panama? Hmmm. I now return you to brake boosters. OOPS, double post.

Back to the subject of heated carbs for a moment. I was looking at the ZTherapys' master price list in the core charge section and found this advice. "Intake halves without the water pipes available on request. The water HEATS the intake charge. GOOD in the Montana winter. BAD year round in LA. Don't run water, unless your Z is cold blooded to distraction." Panama? Hmmm. I now return you to brake boosters.