Mark Maras

Great story. How times change. It was just a few years back that your family had much different feelings about your Z. Have the "Who Gets Her" conversations started yet? The first one of the family that volunteered to wash her is the one that has a plan.

Plunk that sending unit in CLR for 24-48 hours. You'll be amazed how good it will look. I've done two that were crusty and stuck. Both looked hopeless. They both look good and work. As I recall @Wheee was the one with the CLR suggestion. Of course, you'll have to find a way to plug the sending unit hole with something else.

Going for the obvious first. Have you tried lowering the antenna on FM?

If you do need to remove the gaskets, an inexpensive (Harbor Freight) wood chisel works better than a razor knife to remove them. BTW, they also are great gasket scrapers.

Fantastic. I'll pass the info along. I'll probably get one for myself too.

I haven't researched or chosen a product yet. I've still got a way to go before I put her back together. I do know that I'm not going to use the tar mat or jute. Many people have used Dynamat (sp).and have no complaints. I'll probably go with that.

She's looking for any method to lock it. First idea was a locking gas cap. Seemed cheap and simple but it appears no one makes one for the large diameter filler. Patcon brought up the locking door in post #2. A keyed lock that replaces the old style chrome twist knob is evidently available. The reason for the lockable gas cap isn't gas theft. Vandalism is the concern.

I agree with Dennis. If you don't want to drive it with an automatic, put in a 5 speed and save and label all the automatic parts. Easy to change it back that way.

The problem with the original jute padding is that it does hold moisture for years, spreads it over a large area. No easy way to remove and dry it after it gets wet. I'd look for something else. You don't want a sponge under the carpets. If you do use a foam product, be sure it's closed cell.

Thanks, I didn't know anyone made a lockable twist knob for the older cap covers. I'll forward that info to Jai (RedBird). I have a spare cover with the twist knob (wrong color). She may be halfway to a lockable fuel tank already. I'll let you know if she wants to go that route.

RedBird is having a bit of trouble with the new system so i'm asking for her. She is in need of a locking gas cap for RB, a 76 280 ASAP. Does anyone know if anything is available cheap and quick? It appears that Stant doesn't make one for the 76. What years are compatible with the 76? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks Mark

I've yet to see an original wiper motor bag without factory overspray. I do think they look better in black.

A Series II body in 69? Really. I'm continually amazed at how little I know about these cars. More great Z trivia.

Judging from the outside, it looks like a Series II body with a series I hatch. Could it really be a 69?

I'm surprised he couldn't find it. PnP's online inventory says it's on row 30. Thanks

Curiosity mostly. But who knows what I'll find. A handful of fasteners would make the trip worth it.

This vulture will be circling the kill in the morning. Thanks

My 97 Subaru Outback (Spruce Green Pearl) is darned close to what you have. It tends to shift to a bluish green when the light hits it at the right angle. Probably the pearl in it. I think yours is a stock color with extra flake. I don't remember that much flake in the factory paint jobs.

MY used parts looked nearly new. My friends trans had a broken brass ring. Tolerances were within specs. I thought maybe it would be a little touchy shifting it (but better than before) by mixing parts but it was fine. I wouldn't have done it if the parts were worn. Yes. Third and fourth are an assembly, shifted with one fork.

Is that the extent of the symptoms? No problems with any other gears or clutch slippage? Pull the drain plug and see what is clinging to it and what's in the bottom of the case near the hole. Could be a problem in the 3rd, 4th synchro assembly but it could be a problem with oil. The vary first one I tore one down that had the same symptoms as yours. Long story short, nothing wrong with the internals. Everything looked pristine and the clearances were within specs. Since I already had new parts I installed them. Only learned years later that different oil would probably cured the grinding. BTW, I did take a chance and use the brass synchro rings from that trans in another later with no problems. Never had a chance to prove it but the evidence points to oil.

I can't count the number of times I've "loved tapped" the fuel pump in the MGB. Thought that was just a Lucas quirk.

Describe your clutch problem. Slipping, not disengaging, noise? Double clutching for third and fourth. What about reverse, first and second? @KDMatt started a thread called "Found metal at the bottom of my 5 speed. What next?" on May 9th. He successfully repaired his trans using the DIY garage method. It seems intimidating at first but it's very doable. You'll see what you're up against and how to overcome the difficult spots. Zed Head is right. These transmissions can be finicky when it comes to oil. Any chance you want to try changing it before you tear it down? It could make a big difference.

My original early 71 had the bullet style mirrors on both doors. @Mike B is correct, they do have limited visibility but very usable compared to mounted on the front fenders.

I'd bypass as much as much of the existing fuel system as possible too. I think your plan for an auxiliary pump and tank feeding the existing filter sounds like a good way to run it without sucking all the yuck from the tank into the filter and possibly beyond. Good plan. IMO

#2 was the "good thing". #1 A very good thing. #3 is a fantastic thing. Your "glass" got filled this week. Congrats.