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HSL

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Everything posted by HSL

  1. And not easy to get hold of a used bcdd in good condition, at least not found anything so far. Could just block it off of course but would like to have it, it's there for a reason..
  2. It was the BCDD that caused that annoying sound, blocked it off and then the sound was gone. So I believe those small cracks in the diaphragm is the reason for this. Is it possible to buy the diaphragm anywhere? Have not been able to source it so far...
  3. So, after some more checking and listening the source to my trouble is the throttle body or the bcdd. According to FSM the bcdd shall not be adjusted, it should be replaced if it fails. Don't find it easily available so guess I will try to disassemble and clean it.
  4. The rpm in the video was a bit high, usually the idle is at 8-900 rpm. I'll try to record a new video and see if I can capture the sound a bit better. Maybe chiming is not the correct word to use but its a bit hard to describe the sound... Coming somewhere from the intake but really difficult to locate so will try with some kind of stethoscope.
  5. Got this strange chiming noise coming from the intake manifold but it only appears after the engine has reached operating temperature. Its only present at idle or when I get off the throttle, once I give a little throttle the noise disappears. Adjusting the idle screw up or down does not make any difference. It does not affect the performance as far as I can tell. So I been thinking that it is vacuum related but have been struggeling with this now for a while without being able to figure ot out. Have done the egr delete, blocked off all parts of itand blocked off the line going to the throttle chamber. I've attached a video, the annoying sound is easy to hear from approx. 20 sec into the video (never mind the rough idle at the end. Got some moisture after washing the car but that does not have anything to do with that sound as it was there before the car was washed.) 1977 280z, stock l28. 20190915_213232.mp4
  6. Really appreciate the offer but I don't need a set anymore. Bought a set of stubs and the guy that sold them to me was nice enough to include the spacers?
  7. Yes, I know its not super critical but better to have the exact dimensions if possible. Would appreciate it if you could give them to me?
  8. Does anyone have the dimensions on the rear wheel bearing spacer, marked "B"? Only dimension (including tolerance) I can find in the FSM is the length. Need to know the I.D and O.D as I need to make a set.
  9. View Advert Parts needed, 280Z stub axles and companion flanges Want to buy a pair of stub axles (27 spline) including companion flanges. Please send a pm or reply if you have a pair in good condition to sell. Advertiser HSL Date 07/31/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z  
  10. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Want to buy a pair of stub axles (27 spline) including companion flanges. Please send a pm or reply if you have a pair in good condition to sell.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    - NO

  11. I've seen that post but I am still not certain where to attach the wire or how it is connected to item 16. I don't have that wire and there is no visible attachment point on item 16... 2019-05-30_15-50-49.pdf
  12. Seems like I am missing the wire for the horn pad so my horn is not working... Where should the wire for the horn pad connect? Its a 77 280z
  13. Have thought about that solution and guess that is the only option I have. According to the FSM, shims can be placed between the body and the hinge to align the hatch but it does not mention any other way of adjusting the hatch..? Not many Harbor freight in Norway so guess I will have to make my own..
  14. I'm trying to align the rear hatch after paint but it seems to be sitting too far in the aft direction. I'm using the tailgate hinge seal cover from Motorsport auto ( http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02o03b03/34-2236) and with that installed it is impossibe to get it to sit correct. Anyone else had this issue? Tried to remove the cover and then it sits better, of course....
  15. Check out handsontools.com
  16. @theguppies, is the 280z dash still on track for delivery mid this year? Not earlier?
  17. I still struggle with the color. The paint shop claimed that in order to be able to color match it the panel needed to be steel Could be that I need to check with another paint shop but so far no luck in finding the paint code.
  18. Ok, thanks for the info. I'll try my local paint guy then
  19. Does anyone know the paint color code for the dark brown interior in a 77 280Z? I've done some repairs to some of the trim panels and would like to paint them.
  20. Ok, so it looks right but still it looks unfinished.... So that's how they did it back in the day?
  21. I've replaced the weatherstripping for the quarter window but to me it looks like there is something missing between the interior trim and the frame of the window. It's a few years since I removed the windows so dont remember how it should be?
  22. Thanks for pictures and replies. The warmer plate looks familiar, believe it has been laying around on my workbench for months When it is removed, how much longer is the fast idle running? Does anyone have the dimensions for the plugs needed to remove this? I would like to keep the heater so just want to get rid of the t-joint where the lower radiator hose connects.
  23. I stripped my car down three years ago and I have finally started to put it together I removed the EGR from the intake manifold and possibly some other things I cant remember and now I have two hoses I don't figure out where to connect. I've tried to look at pictures of different engine bays but i can't figure out exactly where they should go, and there is no obvious connection point for either one so thinking that I, in a weak moment, have removed something more without putting it back.... The hose connected to the hard line running to the other side of the engine, where should it go? Since the rubber hose is rather short there is not a lot of options... And the longer hose running from the thermostat housing From what I have read it seems like the hoses are for heating of the throttle chamber/intake manifold and that they might be blocked off if the car is not running in cold environment. Since I live in Norway it could be sub zero temperatures even though it wont be driven during winter so would like to have them...
  24. Thanks for the info. I will see if I can find something similar in Norway.
  25. Bringing this old thread back to life... EuroDat, did you find the correct cable ties for the engine harness? Need to replace all the cable ties in the engine bay after a respray.
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