Carl Beck

On my computer screen, Lee's first picture looks about right. The picture of the pully at Post #3 looks like it has too much green/teal in it. Motorman's block looks about right given a slightly darker lighting in that photo. FWIW, Carl

Hi Tom: GREAT story - thanks for sharing. I think many of us can relate to that trip, in many ways. All though your story I found myself thinking - "yes, I've been there and yes I've done that".... Problems along the way simply add interest to the trip and provide better material for the story afterward... keep at it... Carl B.

Not really. The R180's that were raced ran 4 sypder gears - the OEM units have two. That is the weak point in the differential. The R180's that were raced by winning teams - were checked/rebuilt several times per season and many ran differential coolers for longer races. Nonetheless - I agree that the R180 in as new condition is strong enough - and stronger if you add a posi unit with 4 spider gears. The R200's are stronger - and in many cases you can find units that are far newer and have less milege on them. Even if they have the same mileage - chances are good that because they are stronger - they will run longer in lower torque application. Just my personal experience - but the R200's I've ran - all ran with far less noise in the cabin. For many reasons I'd take an R200 over an R180 every time for other than a single purpose race car - and even then the type of race would be considered. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Shane: Good to have you here - that Cartech Turbo-kit is a rare set-up. I haven't seen one on a Z in decades... Enjoy the project... Carl B.

Hi Arne: Was any thought given to using a static cling vinyl - very easy to install and it stays were you put it, until you pull it off. I've had static cling vinyl signs on the sides of my car at 100mph+, and the IZCC Decals have never come loose on the inside of the glass. just a thought... but the "new" adhesive seems to be somewhat of a problem. Nonetheless - the new one's look great - and I really didn't care if they were "exactly" like the originals anyway. Keep at it... Carl B.

Thanks Adrian - I understand now. kind regards, Carl

Hi Guys: I'm a little confused by the use of a couple terms - could be something lost in translation. As I understand the definitions of the terms: Chassis Number - - the serial number stamped into the body of the car, usually in sequential order that identifies that unique unit. Such as 00001, 00002, 00003...... Vehicle Identification Number {VIN} - - The series of letters and numbers that identify the completed vehicle. Such as HLS30 00006, HLS30 00007, HLS30 00008..... H = 2.4L engine L = Left Hand Drive S30 = 2 door sports coupe 00006 the chassis that car was built on. Carnee/Carnet - - Japanese carnet registration number as Alan defined it - in effect the Japanese license plate number for identification of a specific car - which could have also had a License Plate issued by the country within which it was being operated. So the Carnet ie the Japanese registration and the license plate could be transferred from one car to another - - and one car could have had more than one Carnet Number, depending on what Country it was registered for road use at what point in time. However the VIN and its included Chassis Number were unique to a specific car. {Unless a car was completely rebuilt from others - and only one VIN was retained to identify it } Adrian - - are you indicating that 1/1970 240z HLS30-1639 8/1970 240z HLS30-7996 8/1970 240z HLS30-7998 8/1970 240z HLS30-8449 Are the VIN's of the 4 LHD cars that were "Works Rally Cars" ? Or are they cars that you presently own? From an earlier thread - #7996 was identified as TKS 33 SA 987 {71 Monte Carlo Rally}. Thanks, Carl B.

Hi Alan: Thanks for the explanation. Yes - I take your point. I too was frustrated by that and a few other elements of "the story". It seems to always be so:stupid: I guess my question had more to do with understanding the term "public record" in the context of its use in Japan. Our public records start, in each individual State when it comes to automobile titles and registrations of license plates. All of these "Public Records" used to be open to the public - and which are now closed due to Federal Privacy Laws passed some years ago. FWIW, Carl B.

76 Factory Service Manual - in really good condition - $75.00 isn't out of the question - and in Perfect Condition $125.00.... All depends on having two people that need one - on E-Bay at the same time. Wait long enough.. and you can pick them up for $35.00. Most likely "switch" or both your high beams are burned out. A relay will usually cause one side or the other {left/right} to go out. FWIW, Carl B.

The refresh of my Blue 72 - strip the body, replace the entire rear tail light panel and repaint - about six months. My neighbor did it in his garage - and it was a beautiful job. The refresh of my White 72 - strip the body, fix door dings etc and repaint the entire car - about two months. This was a shop that did only Custom & Collector Cars - no collision work. The repair of my White 72 - I bent the hood, Left Front Fender, bumper, lower finisher panels...Yeiks!! Replaced every part with NOS parts, stripped and refinished the entire car to assure matching paint - - with all delays receiving parts - this took about 4 months. The BRE Z - body shop time only - strip the body, fix a couple small dents, prime, 3 color paint job - -about three months. {the entire process of finding parts, rebuilding, restoring etc... about 4 years..but I enjoyed every minute of it} FWIW, Carl B.

Hi bigjohnson: I believe you really have an L20A or L20E {fuel injected} not an L20. So when you are looking for parts, gaskets etc - make sure you specify L20A or L20E. You should be able to get many if not most of the parts from the Nissan Parts Dept. Nonetheless - if you want to build a stroker, start with a good L28, you should be able to find one fairly inexpensively. Put the L20A / L20E on e-bay, you might find a buyer for it. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Alan: That's interesting. What type of public record in Japan gives that info? 72+950 = 1022 The production schedules show by Kats show a total of 969 domestic cars. Does this mean that the production schedules are incorrect or the public records? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Kats: Thanks for the clarification - if Mr. Yoshida and Mr. Tamura agree - then Mr. Tamura should be listed everywhere as having done the final body styling. My mistake - Mr. Yoshida. I understand what he is saying now. Shin is convinced, buy original drawings found during his research at Yamaha on the Toyota 2000GT - that the Finished Fiberglass Yamaha A550-X was designed for Yamaha by GK Design {Iwataro Koike}, and was no part of the Joint Yamaha/Nissan Project. A side note - As far as I know - at this point - Mr. Goertz is the person that originally circulated the photograph's of the Yamaha A550-X sitting beside a Datsun Roadster in the warehouse. He did this with the comment "look at this"... letting the reader believe that Goertz was pointing to a design of his... but as usual without actually saying that... Yes - now that you mention it - I can see the similarities in the front end of the two. But Mr. Yoshida's sketch looks far more overall like the drawings of the GK Design A550-X... Mr. Matsuo's Plan A sketch is far more evolved. {no vent wing, covered headlights, no "B" pillar etc}. I think it is now quite clear that Mr. Goertz had nothing what so ever to do with the A550-X - and that the metal prototype {pictured below} represents the Nissan 2000GT - built by Yamaha for Nissan, and which was delivered to Nissan - does in fact represent the extent of Mr. Goertz involvement. I had thought that given Goertz's ego - he might have actually believed everything was an evolution of "his" designs... but at this point I think Alan's hard stance on the subject has to be considered correct. Goertz had to have known that the GK Design had nothing to do with his involvement - and he was a complete fraud to have circulated pictures of it....{which he did without comment}... Very Interesting discussion - thanks for bringing it up and following though on it. FWIW, Carl B.

Very nice - and to keep them that way - clean the inside of them - then mask them off - and paint the inside with a coat of POR-15 in the light gray. When that sets up and gets tacky - spray a coat of shinny silver over the top. That will prevent them from rusting from the inside out.... FWIW, Carl B.

Facet sells an all but identical pump to the one from NISMO - shop the Web for the best price. Facet Part FEP60SV - you can buy replacement filters FEP 42370. Should be around $85.00... I've used them for years... FWIW, Carl B.

zinistr: I PM'd you... regards, Carl B.

Print this out and FAX/Send it to them. http://www.collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/Datsun/model/240Z/years/1970-1973/

Hi Guys Thanks - yes - it was the other way around. The mats ordered via the Parts Dept. did not have the cutouts, stamped out... #20 had all but the drivers side footwell rubber mats... The securing snaps make sense Mike... and as we know Nissan a bit later secured the rear of the footwell capets as well... FWIW, Carl B.

About 1800 240Z's came into North America with rubber mats. That included the footwells, the area behind the seats and the rear deck area. By the end of 1970 we had lots of customers ordering the rear deck mat via the Parts Dept. - they used it to protect the carpet in their cars. There are minor differences between the rear deck mats that came in the very early 240Z's and the later type ordered via the Parts Dept. in late 71 and forward. As I recall... the early mats did not have cutouts for the luggage straps to bolt down in front... But I'd have to go dig them all out to be sure... FWIW, Carl B.

They usually have one roller per side. There is a right and left roller - don't get them mixed up. If you look at how the window comes up - you will see how the roller should hit it. The windows come up and the glass moves forward..so the roller should be angled a bit forward as the glass contacts it. Also important to have the "stop" in the bottom of the door to prevent the glass from going down too far. {it can drop below the rubber/felt wipers - and when you try to roll it back up - it get caught under them.. FWIW, Carl B.

It seems that when the carpet sets made in the US were installed, most of the dealers took all the rubber mats out. A few it seems put the carpet sets over the rubber mats.. Funny - Jim and I talked about this when we were in CT to see #13. The answer is Yes - it was fairly common on early cars. I can tell you that #20, #42, #239, #584, #1632 And #1777 all had screws holding the bottoms of the door panels in place. #1777 was my first 240Z and at the time - I thought that some of the other cars that came in afterwards were "missing" their screws. If you pull these panels off, and look you see why. The holes in the door panels that are supposed to hold the door panel clips - - do not line up with the holes and door panel clip holders in the door itself. On a couple of cars that I have taken apart, the clips were smashed flat and left in place - but most of the time if the door panel had the screws - it was completely missing the clips at the bottom of the panel. If you have a door panel from a Series I car - that did not use the screws - line it up with the door panel that did use the screws - and see if the holes in the panels are in the same place. If they are, you will know that the holes in the door itself are in the wrong place. FWIW, Carl B.

Flush the entire brake system out with fresh fluid - BEFORE you change out calipers, or rear brake cylinders. That way you don't flush old fluid into new parts... If you need rear wheel cylinders - make sure you have the right one's before you start.. Make sure you have NEW rubber lines at the wheels ready - most have never been changed. If you are by yourself - the harbor freight vacuum bleeder, that hooks to your compressed air - is cheap and handy. Other than parts - it's a very simply system.. good luck, Carl B.

Looks like Mustang 42% Datsun 28% We need everyone to keep at it... and get others to do the same. Still a couple days of voting open... FWIW, Carl B.

To get sound I could hear any stereo separation in - I wound up building custom enclosures and mounting them on the kick panels up front, with the speakers slightly angled up and toward the center of the car. Stereo Speakers facing one another in the rear seemed to cancel themselves out. So 5.25's with tweeters up front made a huge improvement. If I do it again, I'll mount the tweeters on the "A" pillars near the dash... with a small sub in the rear. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi olzed: Good to hear from you. Post some pictures of your Z, there can't be too many of them in NZ now - so it must draw a lot of attention when you take it out for a drive. Welcome to the group... Carl B.