Carl Beck

Update - several people ask me how many of these original 37 year old Datsun Posters were found in the "stack". Turns out that there are less than 80, and they will have a certificate of authenticity affixed to the back by BRE, FWIW, Carl B.

To commemorate the BRE 510 winning the 1971 2.5 Trans-Am championship, Datsun had 23"x32" Posters made up. From The BRE2.net Web Sight: "In going through our archives we found some original posters Datsun had made in 1971 to commemorate the BRE 510 winning the 2.5 TransAm Champtionship that year. Each will be signed by Peter and sold on a first come first served basis. When they are gone... they will be gone. They have been stored flat all these years and are in "like new" condition." $95.00 plus S&H See: http://bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=funstuff FWIW, Carl B.

I'm not certain, but I do not believe that the 78's had webbing - rather second quarter 72 production switched to spring steel supports.

Yes - that sounds reasonable. As long as the new seat upholstery is the same style as the OEM seats. FWIW, Carl B.

It might not have been, or might not be the windshield seal that is leaking. If you get a rust hole in the cowl area, it can drip water from under the dash. The other thing that happens is the rubber/plastic tubes that carry water from the cowl area, to the outside of the firewall, behind the front fenders - - cracks with age and leaks... FWIW, Carl B.

That 73 is well worth going to look at - could be a real "find" in that part of the country. FWIW, Carl B.

Seriously folks... just ask yourself; "who the hell am I to be telling others what they should or should not say, let alone how to say it?". I'm sick and tired of the "PC" police, feel free to speak for yourself and in your own way. If I want a sermon I'll go to church. If you want to give one you know where I'll tell you to go. Carl B.

Yes - the 'brown" in 72/73 was a Metallic color. It was quite good looking when new... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron: OK - I'll bit. What would indicate that is not the original engine??? Carl B.

What was "original" on an S30 depends on what model and year, as well as what color you are asking about. Most likely the reason Gary ask you what Color the car is. S30 = 69 though 78 - - 240/260/280Z here in the US. For the 69/70 Datsun 240-Z's the non metallic colors were Amino Alkyd Enamel, but the Metallic Silver 70-73 was Acrylic Enamel with a clear coat. Amino Alkyd Enamel = enamel paint comprised of amino resins and alkyd resins - it is thinned with enamel reducers, petroleum reducers. Film hardened by oxidation, after some solvent evaporation. (this was NOT a water based paint). FWIW, Carl B.

The Z Car Home Page http://ZHome.com SEE: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg No - there were both Type A and Type B Competition boxes. Both had the steel synchro's. The Type B tranny's came as either direct drive or over drive. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - If the description is true - it would be a very good buy...

This is an all too perfect example of "what not to do". One of two things should have happened to a 240-Z like this one was - as it was shown in it's original condition (before being turned into a total mess). 1) it should have been simply "cleaned", made drive'able and preserved... then sold later for a tidy profit. 2) it should have received a complete "refresh" or "restoration"... Looking at the receipts for parts and services - it is sad to see anyone taken such advantage of, but on the other hand - a fool and his money are soon parted... As for the trustworthy dealer that finished an unfinished project - his glowing description "may" be believed by him. He might be perfectly honest about his view of the car - but we all know there is a very high probability that he is just the second fool in this sad story. So much money spent in the wrong order and on the wrong things.. What a shame that a Series 1 example, with really good floorboards and frame rails was used for the basis of such shoddy work.... More sad is the fact that now that so much money has been spent on the car - no one will be able to buy it at low enough price, to justify completely undoing the damage done and then refreshing the car properly. A pig with lipstick ? More like turning a potential silk purse - into a very expensive sow's ear. On the other hand it does make the 71 here in St. Pete look like a super bargain at $6K... FWIW, Carl B.

wasn't at all worried about corruption... just thought we'd get more comments/participation if everyone saw a new thread about a Series I on e-bay... most people have stopped looking here.. regards, Carl B.

See: Skyline at Fuji http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29172 Carl B.

Hi Ron: You should start a new thread - with a Series I title... so more people will see it... I don't know which car the last two Posts were related too...???? regards, Carl

Just in case this hasn't been Posted http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6021196065589597987&q=Hakasuka+GTR FWIW, Carl B.

Chris - what are you doing up at 3:00AM? Just getting in? Carl

If I lived in Texas, I'd look for a solid body with as little rust damage as possible. The car you describe must have been flooded in salt water - or driven to Texas from Ohio... If the floorpans and frame rails are rusted through - and the fuel/brake lines are rusted through - you can bet the rest of the body will soon follow... As for "is it worth it"... that's up to you - I'd recommend putting the same amount of work and money into a better car to start with. As an example of a 240-Z that has had reasonable care - here's a 71 that has all but perfect floors, frame rails ... they don't ALL rust like the 260Z you describe. http://zhome.com/Katy71Z/Katy71OrangeZ.htm FWIW, Carl B.

HLS30 00300 has a build date of 2/70. By 02/70 the engine serial numbers were running in the 048xx range. Engine serial number L24-04802 is in HLS30 02255. Then Engine number L24-2476 is in HLS30 2545 with a build date of 03/70. So yes - during the first three or four months - things got mixed up pretty wildly. Recall that they had a problem with the early engine crankshafts. - so some of the very early engines, could have been held and rebuilt with the newer crankshafts... then put in later cars. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi HxC240z: I do not know what a "long nose" r200 is. Can you provide the exact model and year car it was found in? The 300ZX's used the R200 - but with different flanges/yokes - not something that is a direct bolt-in, but can be done with enough money and a good rear end shop. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm FWIW, Carl B.

Read This http://zhome.com/CarDriverAero/CDAero74.htm FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Joe: Unless you happen to have family money.. and lots of it... starting a career in road racing really isn't realistic. When these guys say "big money" and/or I say "lots of money".... you can think $100,000.00 to play with, if you want to build a car from scratch, learn to drive it, and get it to/from events. You can also figure you'll really need to spend several thousand on drivers training schools before anyone would let you on a track for competition. If on the other hand you are serous about wanting to drive competitively for a profession - at 20 years of age you are already a decade behind the competition. Looking at the vast majority of professional drivers that ever accomplish any level of success - they started racing motorcycles and/or go-carts before they were 10. If your brother and you want to build it your self - have some fun on a budget of less than $25K a year..I'd suggest that you look into local Stock Car racing as a starting point. Just my perspective... Carl B.

You have a gas tank on your car now. It's a metal container, with baffles, as well as fuel pick-up tube and most likely a fuel return tube. A place for a fuel level gauge is common as well. Pretty much standard fair for automobiles. As the term "Fuel Cell" is applied to competition cars - there are a number of different configurations and standards set by the various competition sanctioning bodies (NHRA, FIA, etc). The Fuel Cell "container" can be made of metal or plastics. The container (aka can) can be lined with a rubber bladder or not. It is always filled with Safety Foam. Various filler necks with different styles of venting can be used, and they usually have roll over safety flaps or balls, that close off the vents or fill necks when necessary. Depending on the style of racing, the fuel pickup's are variously housed in anti-surge structures inside the fuel cell. The Safety Foam is there to fill the voids, or empty space in the can - so that fuel vapors do not have a place to form, It's the vapors that are easy to ignite and therefore explosive. It used, the rubber bladder is there to contain the fuel in case the can is compromised. The least expensive Fuel Cell are manufactured to various Spec.'s in various sizes... If you can use one of them you can save a ton. Having a Fuel Cell custom made can easily run $2,500.00 to $3,500 and they can be just about any shape you want. The fuel pump used is no different than that used with any fuel tank. FWIW, Carl B. In Space Technology - a Fuel Cell directly converts fuel to electrical energy. The dream of course is a Hydrogen Fuel Cell for automotive use... dream on.... It would be quite feasible if we derived at least 90% of our electrical energy from nuclear reactors. In that case the efficiency factors would not matter all that much.

The car was jacked-up to take the pictures... A local "car person" (I do not know who) told the family they were asking too little for the car - and might be sending the message the car wasn't as good as it is. I found this out after I gave them my honest opinion... I said the car was worth $3,500.00, and the all but perfect conditon of the floorboards, Frame Rails, Dash and interior were easily worth another couple grand... ie $5,500.00 here in Florida. Add the cost of shipping one, sight unseen, from California and the time to find a 240Z with less than 50K miles still in the hands of its original owner.. You'd still be looking at more than $5,500.00 by the time it was all said and done. Not cheap by any means, but then it would still cost far less to restore, than starting with the typical $3,500.00 to $4,500.00 example you'll find back East... I think the seller would deal a bit, if someone was standing in front of them with CASH in their hand.. FWIW, Carl B.