bartsscooterservice

I managed to open up the heater core..to get acces to the radiator between work. I will let my dad have a look at it this evening. Here's some pics that might be usefull for other people who want to know how it looks.

Okay, so I was happy I got the meters and clock on the dash working again.. and replaced the knicked heater hoses with good ones....yesterday faith struck me again. First RDW called, they made a mistake with some copy of the US ownership paperwork, and they needed the original one.. oke so I brought them.., but this means it will take another week before I can get the plates and put insurance on it. Second... then in the evening I saw coolant leaking from both sides of the tunnel to the floormats... ~*&^$$!! ... Ripped the floormats out, and luckily not much wet. First I thought the operating valve, but seemed " dry ", then when I pulled one hose of and looked inside, it was all wet... yup. Used search function here on the forum on how to get the damn thing out, and it seemed possible without removing the entire dash. Started on it this morning, and I managed to get it out within 2 hours time ( new record ? ), it helped by removing the front splitter panel from the heater core, to slide it out easily. And here we are now... My dad repaired the radiator before with solder, that worked, but not sure if this is repairable... what do you guys think? If you look at the 2nd picture above connection seems wet, possible leak from there? I will try to have a look at it this evening. Bart

The crash did more to the chassis then you can see

you've come along way! looking good, really attention to detail.

moving along pretty well !!

Or get another ecu? Are the pins in the connector that go in the ECU all good?

I got mine working today with a little effort and wd40: Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

quality work !

Welcome ! Curious on other pictures of your Z ! Good luck. Bart

repaired center gauges and interior heater hoses replaced

Thanks, I'm happy to it's finally done.. Meanwhile waiting for the paperwork for the plates, I'm working on a few things that need to be done, before I can try it on the road. Got all 3 clocks working again somehow.. Also found out the heater hoses where knacked inside the car, so that will not work offcourse.. will try to get other ones from the scrapyard tomorrow. Operating valve was jammed, but wd40 and patience fixed it. The 3 slide controls also operate smooth again..wd40 was my friend in all the cases. By fixing the clock, I removed the front panel, then the 3 nuts on the back and took the clock out together with the faceplate and dials still on it. Then lubed it a bit with wd40 on all components, than attaced a car battery and put the - on and off a few times, untill the motor came loose, and the spring was wind up a bit, then I connected the - and it was working again. View My Video

Finally ! RDW is done, next week it will have Dutch license plates

awesome !

motip wheelspray silver also works good, it's resistant to fuel and brake fluid aswell, also heat, stuff just won't come off, and dries very quick.

brakes

Brakes are done, will try to go RDW friday.

I can understand your point, I've tried saving a 73 with a non matching engine before with no end in sight, then I decided it was best to look for a more solid one, ended up with a 71. Best is to look for a more solid base to start with ( almost no rust and 95% intact interior and engine is the way to go ).

It's still rattling, clearly coming from the valve train, I did find a thread of worn rockers, maybe that's the problem. I'll have a closer look later on.

adjusted valves but stil rattling sound, will check later once the car passes inspection for license plates next week, tomorrow i hope to have some time to bleed the brakes

I changed the valve clearance on a cold engine. Sound is now less but still rattling also as it goes up in rpm... I found another thread on a worn rocker arm, but who knows..it might be anything.

What's the regulations in your country? Curious.. @ Zedd and Euro: Thanks your advice seems to be correct. I looked up the engine oil with Kroon Oil, and they also recommended 15w40 classic multigrade with additives. Alternatives seems 10w30 and even a single grade 30 weight, I guess they used that back in the old days huh? I'm going to get the right oils tomorrow Valve play was corrected according to the manual with hot motor. But i'll try cold, they must be having to much play

Maybe usable for anyone asking what oil should be in the stock motor and transmission.

many times I had it be the ignition ( bad condition or timing to advanced ). Valves are not closed all the way @ TDC when it ignites the mixture, so it travels back into the intake and through the afm.