texasz

Nope, sorry...I was very excited to have found these when I first got the car and planned on seeing what was involved in making them work if they do not already.

OH! Now that I know what the heck is going on in this post I have a little input. I bought a car several years ago and upon getting it home and going through everything I found I had these switches (and hand throttle). @AZ-240z, now after reading that thread (again as I'm certain I read it back when it was active) I will have to go and look at the tail lights in this Z (it is in storage) to see if it has the extra bulb. How exciting!

@heyitsrama I read your thread earlier today which reminded me about my question. 😉 Here are a couple pix of the two that were replaced.

Several years ago I bought a pair of Spicer u-joints for one of my half shafts, I'm pretty sure I bought them from Black Dragon (may have even still been Victoria British at the time). I now want to replace the ones on the other half shaft and the drive shaft. Is Spicer still a great choice? If so can someone help me determine which one to get (I cannot find any of my old paperwork to pull part numbers from). On the ones I have I can see some blue on them if that helps identify what I have to match new ones to.

Looks like surface rust to me, in which case it would come off easily. If you do have (or choose) to bore the you will need larger pistons (or you could consider sleeving the cylinders, though I think larger pistons would be much more cost effective).

Baby oil seems like the kind of thing that would bake your dash...I know that people use it when the sit out in the sun to "tan" themselves and as there is no UV protection in it at all they fry their skin whether they realize it or not.

None of my Zs are zinc (see signature for my Zs).

Yep, I was going to suggest Datsun Spirit also since you are in VA.

It sticks in my mind that I read a write-up of how to repair the window regulators some time ago. It may be worth searching for ways to repair what you have if you have not already done so.

Let's not forget adding strength to the body as they were no designed to handle that much power.

This car is in Austin, that's my back yard! Out of my price range though...I'll just keep working on the ones I already own. 😉

Google it, there are some out there. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/32-1099 (temporarily unavailable) https://www.datsun-garage.com/products/front-and-rear-chrome-bumper-set-1970-72-240z https://zcardepot.com/collections/bumper (looks to be out of stock currently) https://zcarsource.com/bumper-parts/ https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=131&Itemid=118 (backordered) And I'm sure there are more.

It is also possible that a previous owner may have replaced the hatch at some point in the past 50 years (the paint job is not original).

If I'm understanding your question correctly the answer is yes there is a retainer ring that screws on to hold the rubber inner shift boot in place. If you do not have yours you can either seek out an original one from someone or buy an aftermarket/reproduction such as the one Skillard has. https://skillard.com/product/datsun-s30-inner-shift-boot-bezel/

Interesting option Derek presents, the numbers look nice with the 3.362 diff ratio. Questions that this then raises are fitment, reliability, durability, and is there a short throw shifter option available? Oh yes, and cost!? 😉

Great idea! I've had all the fluids drained from the entire car so not necessary for me this go-round.

I know right! I was dumfounded after checking my wrenches multiple times. I may check an adjustable wrench, not sure it will fit though...we'll see.

I'm currently working on removing the driveshaft from a 1970 240Z and the nuts are an odd size. They are between a 12 and 13mm though a 1/2 is slightly too large and a 7/16 is too small. 😞 I'm not so sure that these are original, I know that they have been off before because the car has a 5-speed in it. I've hit them with PB Blaster a few hours ago and will see how that goes.

Nice sounding Z...and I heard you get a 3rd gear scratch out of it. 🙂

I have a few more thoughts and questions. We have been discussing the tranny/diff in a vacuum when there may be other factors that impact how the Z performs. What about... A high HP engine (stock is 150-170 depending)? A high torque engine such as a stroker? A lighter flywheel? What effect would each of these have on the tranny/diff discussion we have been having?

If I recall correctly from what I've read on that subject when boring the engine out for a 3.2L you can sometimes get into the water passages (the blocks are not 100% identical and have some minor variations in casting) which is why people may have to look at several blocks until they find one that will tolerate that size bore. If you bore it and get into the water passage then sleeve it you no longer have the bore size you need, unless you bore over even more which gets into the water passage even further, then when you do install the sleeve you are making the water passage smaller which is likely to cause heat issues.

That is perfect and just the kind of information I needed, thank you!! Now with all this new information I've updated the spreadsheet I made (below). Clearly the wide ratio tranny with the 3.364 diff is not desirable. And the close/narrow ratio tranny with the 3.9 may be a bit much. The sweet spot for 'stock' like acceleration looks to be the wide ratio tranny with the 3.9 diff, that combination would result in the speeds shown in the second chart below...and that would seem to indicate an estimated 84MPH @ 3500RPM in 5th. Based upon info others have shared and the calculations the next best may be the close/narrow ratio tranny with the 3.364 diff. This results in less responsive acceleration than the previously mentioned combination and an estimated 85MPH @ 3500RPM in 5th (chart below). So barely any difference at highway speed so probably not a good choice given the loss in acceleration responsiveness. Just to continue on this line for those who want that supper snappy response off the line the close/narrow ratio tranny with the 3.9 diff looks great though you will be greatly sacrificing top-end since it looks like you would have an estimated 73MPH @ 3500RPM in 5th...that is a loss of over 10MPH on the highway (chart below).

Is there a magical combination that would give peppy performance in ALL gears? Probably not though thought it was worth asking.

Yep, I've read Bryan's entire site many times over the years. Great stuff!!

@Zed Head, so these are the over all drive ratio in first gear with those diff ratios and those trannys. I get that though what does it mean in the real world (not in terms of revolutions and all, that part I understand)?