CNIXZGO

for giving bad readings. My original unit even LEAKED oil. You can order them from Auto Zone for about 25 bucks or get a Nissan brand one for about 40 or so. Depends on what you want to get. As long as you KNOW you have oil in there and its not leaking, you should be OK. Or like the others said, get a mechanical gauge to ease your mind.

about the outer tie rods? if you are, then its ok if threads show, mine have some showing on either side when installed, when you get a front end alignment, they'll be adjusted.

I really cant complain but I think you would have MUCH better luck if you guys lived a driveable distnace from them, it seems like all the complaints i hear are from people who deal with them stricly on the Internet or phone. I dont doubt those stories though! I'm just saying better to deal with them in person as I've always done, Plus i believe they still give a 10 percent discount for 240z.org members. I get mine thru Group Z!

all my old Bosch's with NGKs and my Z runs like new! It's a HUGE Difference!

Window Channel felt? I see it all the time on Ebay for 50 bucks for a whole roll that is supposed to do both windows

remove the entire console and feed the radio thru the back of the slots in the console. i dont think it'll fit through the front. not sure if you have a CD set or an older model with posts. If you have a posts model, just secure it in the console with the retaining nuts on the post

this is closed now! about 2 yrs ago: Wizard of Z's 3185 Chicago Avenue Riverside CA 92507- Phone Number: (909) 787-0267 Order Phone: Fax Number: Have most Z parts. Specializes in parts and accessories. No catalog. Can help find hard-to-find used parts

like the alternator to me. I had this happen in my 1973 240z once on the freeway. all lights went dimmer dimmer dimmer then nothing! alternator was shot.

Just wondering since u come from calif

in Whittier where Iused to take my 240 called Mike's Z Shop, It's of painter Ave. theyre pretty good and reasonable. I dont know if you want to come that far east though.

use some weatherstrip cement to attach the boot to the firewall, Worked great on my 280z, plus when youre removing the linkage, remember to use constant, contrrolled pressure on the ball and link or else it might snap off. it'll be tough at first but it WILL come off.

I'm figuring the gland nut too, OK, so do i have to take the whole freaking assmbly apart or can i tighten it through the springs?

Thursday morning : Well I have narrowed it down to either the spring seat or the strut top mounting insulator. Every time i go over a bump I get this clunk from atop the strut tower in the rear. My question is Do these parts wear out or come loose? I also might suspect the gland nut has come loose on me and it needs to be tightened. I've already tightened the top strut nut. Does anyone know what might be making this sound??? Maybe it needs new bump spots, i dont remem ber having those installed when I had the KYB installed.....My car is a 78 280z

Well Victor, i think i have the same problem as you just described. Today I took off the cover in the interior that goes over the strut housing. I then held my finger on the nut to see if I could feel any kind of vibration while I drove down the street. Well it does sound loose and i can feel the vibration of the clunk when i go over a bump. i didnt take it to work Sunday for fear of that strut totally busting on me. I'm going to take it back to where i got them installed because I need to have the spindle pins replaced anyway. hopefully it's something that just needs to be tightnened and i'm glad it's not a bad bushing or bad diff. mount

pushing down on the rear bumper also and i CANT reproduce the sound. I'm going to check the strut area anyways on sunday and see if i can find anything else.