EuroDat

Now thats uncanny. Two poeple looking for auto tranny cooling lines. Dont see that often. Esprist is right. It should not be hard to fabricate a new one. A brake/clutch service centre could make one easy if you show him your exampe. Or you could try your local car wreckers for a japanese auto and adapt it. Chas

like you mentioned. I think everyone throws them away. Your probaby a loner doen a reverse conversion. My I ask why you are changing the 5spd for an auto? You might be better off making new ones. The originals often rub against each other an becaome very thin to the point where they can leak and thats 35 years of rubbing. Goodluck with the swap Chas

That looks a lot better now. The age old saying; practice makes perfect. Ill probably nether get enough practice to quote that for myself;) Chas

Hi Mike, We have been discussing the plastic inner fender panel for the 280Z in a thread started by GC240Z. I think they would be a good option for reproduction. See thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/50408-280z-plastic-inner-fender-question.html Chas

One of mine had a long crack and I had it plastic "welded" and they fit perfectly in the fenders. Its an original 280Z part and not something modified from another model. It fits to good for that. Chas

I have a 05/77 280Z and it has the same plastic ones you have. Mine are not brittle, not yet anyway. The ebay version should fit. The fenders are the same, but there might be differences in the method used to mount them on the inner body section. Chas

Looking at your photo and comparing it with mine. The top one should be the return line. The middle one is your fuel supply and the third bottom one just visible is the carbon canistor line. To be certain you could follow them back to the tank. Chas

Mike, I'm glad its not structural. Thats the problem when you are welding thin metal and its upside down making the degree of difficulty even worse. It doesnt need much to hold it together, but I think I would try to get welded. I can welded ok;) but when its a PITA like this I get a friend who is an excellent welder to do it. Just have to put up with his remarks over my welding. Something else to keep in mind if you use a helicoil. The helicoil will probably be to long for the nut you are fixing. When you break off the tag (by turning the tool 90degrees and punching it through) it might push the helicoil through and stretch it out like a spring. Check the length of the helicoil versus the tapped out nut and make sure the helicoil is a little shorter than the nut. If its not, then remove enough coils so it will be. Chas

Lucky you found that before if could damage all the wiring, although 23amps should blow the fuse. I think Banzai sells the wiper motor boots for around $50. Gas tank looks great. Cleaned up really nice. Chas

Hi Mike, If you have one of those helicoil kits with 10 helicoils and 1 tap, be carefull with the tap. Its not made of top quality metal and can break with little effort. Back it off every 1/4 or 1/8 turn and use plenty of lube. I also use loctite on the helicoil as a precaution on holes that dont bottom out. Dont want the helicoil screwing through to the other side. I have had that happen. We used the original bolt from another car, but on grabbed the helicoil and screwed it through. Took a lot of work to get it out. Chas

Now I understand. When you said "280Z face lift" and "convert my 280Z to a 240Z" I thought you wanted to make your 280Z look like a 240Z. It really depends on how handy you are and how much a shell the 240Z is. The list is LONG and you will run into the smallest things. Things like the brake and fuel lines from front to back are totally different. Dash and fuel tank are different. You can overcome this but its a lot of work. Chas

If you can get hold of a 71B out of a ZX would be a nice upgrade. The ZX 71B transmission is a close ratio where the 280Z is a wide ratio version. For a stronger version you could go the 71C mod or try to find a Borg warner T5 from a turbo 280ZX See my post here for the 71B ratio's http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/50294-time-diff-transmission-swap-what-more-change.html Chas

If you are just talking about face lifting the 280Z, you will come into some problems converting it. The rear quarters dont have the recesses for the bumpers. The tail light panel will need modifying to fit the 240Z tail lights. The 240Z front centre valence section wont fit because the cross member in front of the radiator is too low. This can be fixed by fitting a air-dam with the 240Z turn signals. The reason I know this: Been there, done that. Or should I say; doing that. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.html Chas

Its the only difference I know and when its in a 260Z all the external stuff is swap over from the original L26. The L28 came out in March 75 and stayed upto 1983 when they changed to the 300ZX. There are two block models; the N42 (March 75 to mid 1980) and the F54 (mid 1980 to end 1983) The non turbo had three different heads. N42 upto mid 1977, N47 upto September 1980 and the P79 went until the end of the 280ZX. That might give you a clue as to "when". Chas

If its out of a 2+2 it will have a 240mm flywheel. The 280Z coupe had the 220mm. Problem is: getting a look at it without removing the transmission. Chas

Pitty you missed out Zedyone. Thats the problem with my accountant. She keeps talking me out off it. Aah, if she didnt my garage would be so full of junk I wouldnt be able to move in it, let alone work on anything. I hope it went to someone that is planning to retore it and not just hack it up for a weekeind racer. Such a low number 69 deserve better than that. Chas

That is a good fix Mike. I can not think of a better way to do it. Also gives you the opprotunity to treat the inside. Getting out a broken off tap is no easy job. A lot of force to break it off, so you need just as much or more to get it out. Chas

I think you are talking about the spring on the clutch pedal. The slave cylinders on the Series I 240Z had a spring on the slave cylinder. They also had a special clutch fork with an extra tab to anchor the spring. You have a 1973 240Z. That is series IV. Chas

If you cant remove your ring while working then you should where gloves. If it gets hooked on something it can cause nasty injuries. Chas PS: you shouldn't be complaining about warm weather, but dont worry, in a couple of months youll be freezing your a*# off in that garage when is close to 0degC.

Looking good. The bumper is in good condition complete with bumperettes and rubber strips. Im trying to get the fibreglass one to fit and then might go over to the stainless steel one from Harrington. They dont come with the bumperettes. You have strip the grill supports. What are your plans for the grill area? I have been leaning towards the JDM style that 1tuffZ on HybridZ makes and sells through MSA. With the 240Z indicators and air dam it would clean up the front nicely. I can see two brackets on the frame in the first photo. Their located in front of the bottom corners of the radiator. Mine didnt have them so Im thinking its something different between the 75 and 77 model or stone gaurd supports? Chas

Try this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/48392-affordable-chrome-plating-plastic-metal-parts.html Send Mike a PM. He might still have sets. Chas

Hi Brad, Congrates with the sale. Chas

Started playing with thre front bumper again. The bumper does not fit very close to the 280Z grill leaving a wide gap between the two. I tried to close the gap but then the bumper side arms extended past the recess in the fender. I am now playing with the small cover panel that fitted between the grill and the original 280Z bumper. It strapped onto the shocks and the bolted to the valences on the side. This panel fitted quiet well and covers the gap nicely. I had to remove the two ears at each side of the panel and reset my bumper mounting brackets. The brackets are now made of aluminium so I can modify them easily. When its all finished Ill make them out of Stainles steel. I pleased with the results so far. Now to rebuild my 240Z indicators (out of the blue valences). Ordered new lens rubbers and other small parts from MSA and will be ordering the Air-Dam shortly. Just got to get my mind around the shipping costs and import duties. Start gripe // The air-dam kost $180 + $ 250 shipping + $90 Dutch taxes = $520.00. Sure takes the fun out of restoring. Sorry guys, but this haunts me every time.:sick: // End gripe Might try and hold out till MSA start their christmas specials. Releave the pain a bit. Motorsport! Urethane Air Dam, With Brake Cooling Ducts, 70-8/74 240Z-260Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Here are some photos of the panel fitment. Chas

Would be kind of fun to own a car thats been in a film. It would be a bit of a delemma what to do with it. If you restored it, it wouldnt look like the car in the film and if you left it the way it is, it would rust away to nothing. That is judging the state its in now on CL. They dont show any photos of the rust prone areas. The film just came out here in the Netherlands. Released: 8-aug-2013 Safety Not Guaranteed -Trailer, reviews & meer - Pathé

Sound interesting. BTW, the front end section doesnt look that bad on the photo. You was planning to replace it with the white one. Are you still going with that idea? Chas