EuroDat

Sounds very much like a worn extension house bushing. There is a guy on hybridz that had a similar problem. It was leaking oil all the time. He had a worn bush in the extension. He was also having trouble with after market stuff being out of spec in new condition. Something to be aware of if you are buying parts to fix the problem. Can't find the thread right now. I think you are refering to the backlash in the diff when you rotate it in neatral. You are turning the driveshaft to the diff right? Slight rotation is normal and shoundn't be causing this problem. Chas

I think he means "drag it home behind your car" It probably was made by scrabb, who ever that is ::Its amazing that some people think; If I buy this and leave it in the paddock unprotected for ten years, it will improve with age. Might have been a good project when he parked it. Shame.

Sounds like your muffler had some coolant in it and took some time to boil out. Hope thats all it is. Good to hear its running again. Ready and Looking forward to the summer Chas

I think its the release bearing collar thats important. It should match the pressure plate. The pressure plates over the years have different heights. The collar should match the pressure plate. How that works with a 350Z setup? My experience is based on the early stuff up to the 240SX. Be carefull. There is a lot of info out there and the more you read the worse it gets. I ended up going with a 240mm lightened 280ZX 2+2 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc and release bearing collar with a FS5W71C tranny from a 300ZX. Project in progress.... Chas

Be aware when you use a truck flywheel. I don't know if they are all the same, but most Ive seen are 29lbs which will add a lot of rotating weight. Nice for a truck, bad for a sportscar. The 225 and 240mm Z flywheels are both 23 lbs. When you go from the 225mm pressure plate to the 240mm you will increase a couple of lbs as well. A common practice is to have the flywheel lightened proffesionally or use the Fidanza 143281 aluminium flywheel. Finding someone that knows how to lighten flywheels is not as easy as it sounds. Lightened incorrectly it can be very dangerous The Fidanza will set you back about $300 which isn't really budget, but it is a safe alternative and it will lighten the overall result about 10lbs on the original 225mm setup. It will be intersting to follow your progress. Gookluck Chas

Good to hear he had good reason for swapping the blocks. Its a pitty he didn't communicate it along the way and you had to call him to learn about it. Nice specs. Im wondering why he used a different manifold, since yours is ported and matched to the head. It can only think its because he has a special manifold so he can connect extra equipment for tuning and testing and you get a clean manifold when its finished. Chas

I can imagine you not being very happy (borderline freaking out) after reading all that you have gone through. Just wondering what preperation work is done to the head. Doesn't look chemical cleaned with the rust colourin the water jacket. For all the time and money, you would expect a complete package. Hope the engine lives up to his reputation. Chas

If you are going to modify the shifter (Intead of cutting the tunnel and console) I wouldn't start with a short-throw shifter. You loose height when you modify it to come 60mm back and a short-throw is already shorter. Make sure its for the FS5W71B transmission. chas

Yer Site is on the right track, but its most liky the master cylinder primary cup seal leaking. If its the slave cylinder you should be loosing fluid and the rod coming out of it should be wet. The "standing still at the lights" gives it away. The fluid is leaking back and releasing the clutch. At this point I would do the lot, MC, Slave and the hose. Don't forget to dismantle the new units and clean them before installing. You will find all kinds of machining material in there and that will only reduce the life of the system. Chas

Sounds like he charged you shipping to Europe. $75 for a rh nut is a lot. Nissan parts zone still quote it as being available, but that could change when you order it. There is a thread here with a member that ordered the LH thread nut and got a RH nut. Maybe he still has it. I made a screen shot two years ago (left attachment). They were all available then, but now only the 32354-E9804 is "available" in right attachment. Chas

The photos in post #1 are Left: FS5W71B. 5 speed 280Z transmission (wide ratio) without the shifter. Right: F4W71A. 4 Speed 240Z transmission. 3 piece housing. This is most probably a pre 10/71 240Z car. After that they changed to the F4W71B two piece housing. Would be handy to quote your model and production date. If its the early 240Z you will need to modify the 280Z shifter or cut the tunnel. Don't get a shifter for the four speed, it wont fit because the section under the pivot point is too long. If you don't want to modify the shifter the second option is to cut the tunnel to give the shifter the required clearance for 1st, 2nd and 5th. The console will be a problem too. At this point; modifying the shifter looks to me to be the better option. Keeps the mod reversable and stock looking. I helped a friend do this on a series 1 a couple of years back. The car has since been sold and I don't have any photos, but I did make some simple drawings of the modified shifter. We made it according to the drawing, but it required some minor heating and tweaking after to get it centered exactly in the middle of the tunnel opening. Do yourself a favour and buy new bushes for the shifter. You will feel the difference. 2x http://www.courtesyparts.com/bushing-p-345116.html 1x http://www.courtesyparts.com/bushing-le-p-345182.html Chas

I find a lot of parts simply by trying nissan first them the aftermarket dealers.A good nissan site is Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesyparts.com/240z-260z-280z-parts-s30-1970-1978-c-7724.html Aftermarket: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/cat280z.php https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php http://www.motorsportauto.com http://www.blackdragonauto.com Those are some of the common ones. Here is a good site for the parts manual http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex.aspx Chas

Your question 1: No they are not the same. Page 19 & 49 refer to the Thermotime temp sensor (for the Cold Start System circuit) and page 79 is a test for the temp. sensor for the ECU. Page 64 has a goed overview of the two temperature circuits. (Pin 13 and Pin 21 on the ECU connector) If you want to test the Thermotime circuit. It is on page 98 Test #3 - (3). Poor connections are a big problem with these cars and very important in these old (analoge) systems. I replaced my connectors with aftermarket on the Injectors (for easy testing) and OEM on the Temp.sensors. See attachments I don't have much info on the 78. Just about everything I have is based on the 77. Here is a photo from AtlanticZ and a snapshot of the wiring for the 280Z 1978. Hope thats the right diagram. Good luck with hunting it down. Chas

Wow, 500 bucks for a used strut. I picked up a set a couple of months back. A guy had them here in NL for sale and I couldn't resist. Yep hoerder in denial, Im afraid. Now if I only had a bigger garage;) Good luck repairing it. It doesn't look that bad that it's not repairable. Chas

NO. I would not advies going further without replacing it. I replyed to your other post, but its a good idea to post here. If you don't use an oil gutter you will starve the rear section of oil. This will damage the fifth gear and its synchro and the reverse gear. It might even get hot enough to seise while driving given the conditions like hot day and long drive in fifth gear. The oil gutter only costs about €1.50, but you need the Bell housing (front section) and rear extrension dismantled to fit it. Chas

It is. You should replace it. If you don't the fifth gear and synchro, well everything back there, are not going to get enough oil and wear out very quickly. It could even overhead and seize while your driving. I replaced mine two years back and they cost about €1.50. Missed your post on the 14th. You can only dismantle that "ear thing" when the rear extension is dismantled. Then you can dismantle the selector and pull it out the rear. To replace the o-ring on the selector rod you need to punch out a round plate with the selector rod. You can refit the plate with sealant and some centre punch marks. Im not a home atm (in Aus) so I can't post photos of it and my iPad mini is not being very friendly. Chas

There is a local guy here that runs a restoration shop and sells parts on the side. He sells gasket sets for €145. http://www.autoservice-rozendaal.nl/asr/zparts/. Might be worth checking out. Shipping would be less and you don't have the huge import taxes. Check the link to his webshop. Jan and Belinda are also members of our local Z club in NL. Jan is the Chairman for as long as I can remember. One thing to look out for if you use rock auto. They often send from different warehouses to complete the order. When they do they charge full shipping from both locations. In the US that doesn't add much, but here in Europe its often more than the price of the goods ordered. Chas

Another website to get usefull info is AtlanticZ http://ww.atlanticz.ca. Check their Tech Tips. If you are new or firmiliar with Zeds its has a lot of handy tips. You will see Blues Zed in a lot of the how to's. Your problem sounds much like what Zed Head already mentioned, so I wont repeat it. The temp. sensor cable often gets roadster over time and the connector falls apart. That happened to mine. Chas

Hi George, I generally go to http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex.aspx, look up the part number, then check if it hasn't changed to a new number on www.courtesyparts.com. They will show replaced by part number...... and then try my local nissan dealer. If its NLA I then start looking in the US or sometimes in the UK for aftermarket. There is a couple in England like Four Ways Engineering. For those hard to find parts your best option is Second hand parts. Ill try the local "marktplaats" its a kind of Craigslist here in NL. That might be harder in Greece. If you let US know what you need, maybe we can help. Chas

I have heard from others about these issues with the 78 model. On the 78 they started changing things a bit and some things seem more like the S130. Thats why I mentioned the other EFI bible on xenons130. I have a 77, thats why I can't confirm it. Maybe Fastwoman will see this and chip in. Sarah has a 78 and knows a lot about that model year. Im on a smartphone so I hope this is not to challenging to read. Chas

You can download it from this site. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html If you scroll further down to the "other" section you will also find the EFI bible. I have read that the EFI bible on the xenon130.com site is better, but I can't confirm it. Goodluck Chas

Hi Martin, I know what you mean about the taxes:( Like Zup already mentioned, Steve makes a lot of the rubber parts for the 240Z and what ever is interchangable for the 260 280Z. I would tend to buy from Steve if I was replacing the rubber. Not saying Vintagerubber is less quality, but Steve is also a Zed man and the ivestment needed to start making this stuff makes it so expensive. I know what it has cost me to do my parts. Its certainly not a viable business, just a hobby. My 2 cents. Goodluck Chas

Looking good Bart. It will be great when its finished and ready for the summer. Chas

I would also suspect the inductor in the dizzy. Since you don't know the history on the distributor it would be a good place to start. If you have an analoge voltmeter, set it to the lowest volt setting, disconnect the pickup wires, and you should see the meter bouncd when you turn the engine over. It could also be the module. That can happen and you wont even see a spark. That is why I started with a couple of $10 units to get all the problems worked out when I coverted my 280Z. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49588-fitting-a-hei-module-in-transistor-ignition-unit-1977-280z/ Chas Edit: added link to my thread