grannyknot

It has a trailer package too, good for hauling the track car.

Every so often someone will post a thread about not getting being able to get enough fuel up front to the engine, they have replaced the filters, the pump ... and so on. Here is an obstruction I have never run into before and is completely hidden, there is a rubber sleeve going through the subframe between the tank and the fuel pump on my 77, the fuel feed hose goes through that hard rubber sleeve. I have started scraping in that area so cut one side of the hose and pulled it through, for some reason the hard rubber sleeve has contracted and crushed the fuel hose taking a 9mm ID hose down to 4.5mm. I guess maybe age did it or gasoline vapors coming through the hose, anyway I'm going cut it off and bang it out of the subframe, I'll find something thinner to act as a protector for the fuel line. The drill in the pic was used to find the narrowest section of the hose. Hope this helps someone.

Try and think of the pans as only 90% correct, you have to make the pan fit your car, if you think you don't need that extra 3/8" on the rocker side of the pan and you still have enough work with, cut it off. Measure twice cut once? Did you keep the original floor pan, you can solve a lot of problems by having a look at the old stuff if you still have it.

Kind of like these guys,

Looks like you have everything nicely prepped, after you get the pan roughly shaped and placed you can start with the rocker side of the pan and run a couple of zip screws or clecos to hold it, then 1 on the back lip. At the front where you left 3" of the existing support rail you want to force the new pan down into that curve and secure that with a couple of zip screws until you start welding. The position of the pan may change so don't tack weld anything, any holes from the screws can be welded up at the last step. Now comes the fun part, matching the new pan up to the trans tunnel, there a couple of ways to do it but I like to start in the center close to where the front of the seat would be and secure that with a zip screw then cut relief lines in the pan as you need them to get the pan to lay against the tunnel. Much twisting and bending of the pan and some stretching of the tunnel will get you there. If you are lapping the weld joint try and get the lap down to a 1/4" to 1/2", if butt welding leave your lap nice and wide so you can slice down the center of it, try and find the thinnest cutoff wheel you can for that cut, trying to butt weld over a large gap is so frustrating.

Beautiful sound, they must have needed a dozen cameras.

Well supplied air for positive pressure masks start at $50 on ebay right up to $1600 but it wouldn't be hard to buy a painters hood like the 1st pic and put together a small regulator off of a T valve like the 2nd pic that would tap into the main compressor hose. Hook all that onto a hip belt and start spraying. As long as you have 5-10 psi of air coming into the hood there would be no problems with paint fumes. The main hose would continue on to a small regulator just before the paint gun. Doable? The end result would look sort of like this, https://www.amazon.com/Function-Supplied-Respirator-Cartridge-Included/dp/B07D8R1338/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544933506&sr=8-3&keywords=Supplied+Air+Respirator but made with better quality parts.

If you ever want to show us your collection I'm sure all would be keen to it

I'll bet you could bring that paint back without too much trouble, what a great find. We all have dreams about finding a Z that hasn't been touched in decades.

Those look like they are in perfect cond.? I bet you're thinking about changing the colour of the car now to match the fenders. I can't remember off hand what the ratios are but you should only follow the directions that Proform gives you, if in doubt contact them. Make sure you get all fresh product, new reducer and harder not some stuff you may have left on the shelf that you want to use up, new mixing containers and stir sticks. I can't remember, are you going to paint yourself or just doing the prep.?

OK so I just did the rub test with MEK, the cream coloured coating is definitely 2 part epoxy primer, I rubbed hard and nothing came away on the cloth but the last remnants of the undercoating. Thanks all.

The 280 is up on the rotisserie now, cleaning up some of the previous guys welding work, only about 1/3rd into the undercoat scraping Underneath the crud is a cream coloured coating and bare metal underneath that, can anyone tell me exactly what that is, 2k primer, single primer, paint? The last pic is a scraper I made out of an old carpet knife, I sharpened the outer edge as well as the inner and it allows you to get into most of the curves and crevices, wish I had thought of this years ago.

I used that 2k primer on the 240z and it was excellent, went on smoothly with no hicups. It has been about 2 1/2 years now since the car was painted and no problems.

Yes! Never had a chance to see how a flat top is put together, kind of a rare sight as most were pitched years ago.

Bill, those valence brackets that you circled are welded on as well as bolted on, on my 77/280. I removed all the bolts but I think there is a weld somewhere on the top that I can't get to. Just thought I would give you a heads up, I hit it a few times with a BFH and couldn't budge them.

I priced out that kit last night as individual pieces and the price Silvermine is asking is pretty much on the dot, so it's a good deal to get it all bundled like that. It might be a good idea to get a drop box in Blaine, Washington and drive over to pick it up, UPS/FEDX will rape you on that order.

@duffymahoney, what are you using for the paper gaskets between the 2 parts of the horn?

I think politicians are a different kind of breed, a personality type that includes arrogance, narcissism and above all fluid morals/ethics. There are lots of people that go into politics with good intentions, they try their best but find they can't accomplish anything unless they play the game. So ultimately we end up with a group of people to vote for that are worst possible candidates to become a leader.

It would be nice if you could drop the tank somehow at the storage place and have all winter to restore the tank, less down time in the spring.

Jeff, what are the years of that Mustang GT?

Done

Of those two hoods I guess I would go with rust pitted hood, a twisted hood is no fun to straighten. Those pits are deep so you really can't get too aggressive with a wire wheel, grinder or sander, there's a real possibility of popping through to the other side. Soda blasting would get the rust out of the deepest pits or you could make a dam around the worst area with plasticine, playdough or modeling clay and fill it with Evaporust.

The car is all wrapped up tight in the storage tent but I would say Yes they look the same. The piston must be a lager diameter, the Mustang is a much heavier car.

The long and short of it is these brake components weren't designed to work together for a 240z, owners started mixing/matching brakes from other cars in an effort to assemble a perfectly balanced braking system. But really most of it is trial and error, the brake combination I'm using works quite well but is still has too much front bias. Before you start changing your brakes you owe it to yourself to read all the brake threads on Hybridz, most of these combinations were tried and hashed out years ago, the kits that are offered for sale by a number of companies are a direct result of that experimentation. It's funny that the pictures of the Mustang rear calipers are identical to the Maxima

A V8 Z can be a bit nose heavy depending on the engine but with stiffer springs, good shocks and some frame stiffening they handle very well, lots of power for sure but to me a V8 will never sound as good as good as a straight six. That's a big can of worms, guys have been arguing about that for a long time.