lapriser

This set of microfiche scans were published in '79. The reason for the duplicates is that some of the diagrams have 70-80 parts and a single page only has enough rows in the table to show 20 parts. So the diagram is duplicated in order to show all part information. I am working on condensing these into one diagram per system. Similar to the CarPartsManual site.

https://datsunresource.com/2-8_B9_Cylinder-Block_Fitting_L24-L26/viewer I was able to get the part number decoding implemented! You can see some examples on this diagram!

you can check out any diagram in the "Miscellaneous" category or the engine diagram here to see an example of how the pages will look fleshed out! https://datsunresource.com/2-8_B9_Cylinder-Block_Fitting_L24-L26/viewer Right now there is functionality to use the arrow keys to move left and right through the diagrams. But I like the idea of displaying them as they are on the slides! I've started culling duplicate diagrams in the L24/L26 Engine category and will be continuing removing duplicates once I make sure I've noted all the information I need on the rest. I think you're right that this last 10% is gonna take the most time and effort! Thank you for the input!

Yes I still have to go through the majority of diagrams and fix bubbles and table information. Right now the only "done" category is Miscellaneous. Bubble identification was not as good as I hoped with the pdf character recognition but I wanted to make it exist and then refine and making better!

This is awesome! How have I never heard this before? I'll definitely be trying to incorporate this, thank you!

Hey Everyone! I wanted to share a new microfiche/resource sharing website I've been working on. A couple years ago I bought a full set of microfiche slides for the Datsun Zs and scanned them at my local library. I wanted a more easily searchable database of parts and the ability to add things like torque specs, notes, or references. The result is at the link below! Still a work in progress as I still need to verify and clean up the information and number callouts for about 80% of the diagrams but the site is functional. If anyone has ideas on what they'd like to see added in the future feel free to comment or send a message through the contact page! Thanks for looking! https://datsunresource.com/

I have a 3d scan of the front strut and spindle housing if that helps at all. I also have a damaged front passenger you could have but it's still on my parts car and could be a couple weeks before I can get some time to remove it.

I have done the hatch seal twice while on the car. Wasn't too bad but had someone on the outside pushing down on the glass slightly when needed. I did one hatch seal on those X shaped saw horses while pulling the string down towards the floor which wasn't too bad either.

@foosman I will take it. Sending you a PM

Is this still available?

I have lowering springs so there really isn't any spring compression when the car is in the air or when the strut assemblies are not mounted.

Oh my goodness! That's truly impressive. Curious if anyone would know why there's a lock cylinder in one of the front fender emblems?

https://www.zcar.com/threads/how-to-s30-door-lock-coat-hanger-repair.308946/

Cerakote for the locks could be a good option

The way I modeled this was based off my own interpretation and I chose to place the flange on top to give more surface area support for the insulator as well as to let the bump stop seat all the way into the spring perch as it does in the stock setup. Given that the stock struts do not have a flange and are fine with the contact area they have I can see why the koni engineers would say either way is fine. I chose mostly based off the way the bump stop seats but if you have a different bump stop the results may vary. I've had these installed for a few months now and have done a fair bit of driving and they have been wonderful!

My shock and nut are on their way to Koni USA now as requested by Koni and MSA

I think Koni Lee and others have been helpful and responsive throughout this thread and I'm thankful we have quick responses direct from the source. The top nut situation seems to be limited to a handful of cases from what I can tell including my own. I have since installed 2 more Koni struts with the supplied nuts without issue. I think the number of potential cases we've seen could be attributed to either a bad batch of hardware, user error, or just plain bad luck, and from Koni's perspective it does not look like a widespread problem considering the number of struts they've likely sold at this point. Upon removal of my old struts I noticed my KYB struts also were held in with nyloc nuts as well. This appears to be the industry standard for quite some time. I genuinely believe I had a bad nut and wrenched on it a bit too hard while believing the nyloc part of the nut was causing the resistance. I've never used a nyloc of this size before. I am glad we are documenting this to show the importance of careful install and knowing the potential issues that can arise from the different aspects of these struts (small thread size/D-shaft, over-torqueing, power tools, etc.)

I was able to redo install of the front strut with the one I have remaining. I also completed the rear strut on the driver side so half the car is now done. Install went perfectly and no issues at all with the supplied top nut. I am installing a few other adjustable suspension components so I won't have it back on the ground for another week or so but I am very excited. Here is an updated Cross Section with the edited bearing for clarity. I've also created a file for a longer strut adjustment knob that I am looking for a place where it can be readily downloaded and 3D printed if you wish. I will post when it is live.

Updated with another screenshot. Thank you!

Hey guys, I was thinking about drawing up some Datsun Specific instructions for these. Is that something anyone would be interested in? I started modeling some reference 3D files for my own sake. Can anyone confirm this is the stack up for the fronts?

@KONI Lee @Joseph@TheZStore Thank you for your responses and I appreciate the comprehensive explanation. I will be sure to be more cautious when installing the next ones and am super excited to get these installed and on the road. These seem like genuinely good products and though this instance is unfortunate hopefully it at least helps prevent something similar from happening to someone else. Thank you, again, for your response.

You are right, I see it now on page 7. I thought I read through the thread fully but it's possible I read through a different thread somewhere else or browsed through this one too quickly. Thanks for the heads up.

Hey guys, I'm wondering if anyone has had any issues with the top nut stripping out or crossthreading? I installed the strut with no issue which involved hand threading the supplied nylock nut until it hit the plastic locking section, then tightening by hand with a socket wrench. I realized I forgot to put the bump stop into the assembly and began unthreading the top not and it eventually froze up and would not move. After some creative clamping and a lot of force I was able to remove the top hat assembly but the threads and adjustment knob on the strut are destroyed. The adjustment knob does not move and the strut seems to have lost its dampening resistance. I am a little baffled about how this could have happened so aggressively. I don't use nylock nuts usually and this one seemed very aggressive. Is this a common issue with nylocks?

I've done a lot of research on fender mirrors and have kept an eye over on the japanese auctions through Jauce. Looks like they could go anywhere from $200 for one up to $600 for a pair. https://www.jauce.com/search/napoleon+gt