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I'm not talking to myself, it's for another member and I can't figure out how to add attachments to Private Messages.

'77 to '78 hose changes from valve cover to AAR. It keeps the AAR cleaner.

Have you tried to adjust it? It has a nut on the bottom for adjustment, you'll have to take the clipped on metal cover off first. I can't remember which way I turned mine to get it right though :stupid:.

I can understand your addiction. I bought a '77 and then after reading on this forum about all the fun the 240's were I ended up with 2 Z's in my garage. I enjoy this community of Z lovers as much as the cars themselves. You've found a gold mine at classiczcars.com, very helpful folks here.

Isn't 2200 RPM about where the TPS goes off idle contact to wide open contact? Maybe you got that wet or something? The adjusting 10MM bolt maybe loose? What about if you pull the gas pedal up with your foot?, will it go down? A spring on your throttle linkage may have come off. Is your BCDD still on? Mine was out of adjustment when I bought it and would hang on a high RPM for a few seconds then fall back down. Another thing Wick Humble mentions on page 194 is the connections between the EGR and the intake come uncoupled and cause a huge vacuum leak on '77's, mine did it and rotted out a hole in the aluminium intake. Take a mirror and look under the intake to see if anything looks peculiar, at the back, around #6. Maybe the wire spark arrester in your PCV hose off the valve cover is mucked up? Good luck. A new game to play, how many blue words can you get in a post?

My side markers quit working too. I took the lenses off and cleaned the sockets with sand paper and spray electrical cleaner. Now you could see them from an airplane.

I couldn't figure all the switching for mine before I replaced the old pump. Took about 12 ft. of speaker wire and straight wired it to the battery and ran a hose from the hardline before the front fuel filter, in the engine bay, into a gas can. Have a hose pipe turned on or a fire extinguisher nearby and be sure the hose is secure in the gas can or it'll blow out 50psi without going through the regulator. Be safe.

I'd store them somewhere. You might sale the car one day.

I put in the urethane bushings while the motor was out, I took the steering rack out and greased and painted it and put new accordion boots on. The steering rod coupler gets new ones too. Never done it before but it seemed easier not having to work around the header and A/C compressor. My biggest help was a small bottle jack for the tie rod ends and the TC bars, it holds things in place while you put the washer and nuts on. They go on from the bottom.

here's the panels, Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto, there's more out there. I would clean with electrical cleaner spray and dielectic grease all the bulb sockets. Mine were all green when I looked at first. Oh yeah I think this is who makes them, google.com Tabco body panels 280ZX.

Congratulations on your 1st Z, they're great fun. You'll have to tell us more about your issues, please. If it's that TURBO you should also look around HybridZ.

I am about to buy 2 indoor dust covers and was wondering what everybody else is using. Black Dragon or MSA, or some other I haven't seen? Thanks for any replies.

Make sure all the rubber from the air filter to the intake is sealing up tight. Those accordion hoses around the AFM are bad to crack and cause un-metered air to get in, vacuum leak.

You won't have to remove the fuel pump all together. The hose from the tank to the pump can be removed at the pump to reveal a small cone shaped filter, about the size of a sewing thimble; maybe smaller. Mine was really fragile and I had to use tweezers to get it out. You should put in a clear filter between the tank and the pump also. They're about $4 at Walmart, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation. Great looking car too!

Good read if you haven't already, Datsun L-series ZCAR engine modifications

I hope mine looks that good when I can afford the re-paint. Like a tomato, they look orange in the bright light then red in lesser lighting. I've never seen a persimmon.

I would think a TURBO would be easiest but if your wanting more do the Chevrolet LS1 conversion. https://www.google.com/search?q=LS1+in+280ZX&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=LS1+in+280ZX&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.11355j0&sourceid=chrome&espvd=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#es_sm=93&q=LS1+in+280ZX+

Tom Monroe says on page 129, L24, 26 and 28 final torque of 61 ft-lbs. That's a Fel-Pro gasket too.

I skipped over this thread thinking it was about the difference in 87 octane and 93.:stupid: I remembered reading this before I put the potentiometer in coolant sensor line thinking I might get myself one, Simple Digital System EM-5, I like what Lenny's doing better though. He's a Z man.

Here's another Zombie Thread that may shed some light on your quest, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/47447-help-me-understand-aar-please.html I changed my hoses to the '78 configuration too, it keeps the AAR cleaner.

I've figured out, after sleeping on the floor, to raise mine up with jack-stands a couple of feet. 6 ft. tall bent down to 3 ft. takes the fun out of working on mine.

I like that other "Z" too, '70 split bumper Camaro Z28.

I found this, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/41728-speedometer-not-working.html, maybe something there that is useful?

That was a great trade for you! $1,000 bike for at least a $1,500 car, probably more. I wish they made a power band exhaust for these little cars, I guess that would be a TURBO. :stupid: Find your color here, 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery

Congratulations on your 1st one, happy days ahead if you read everything you can and take it slow on these old cars, things break easy. You could also check all the fuses in the passengers side foot well fuse box and the fusible links in front of the battery, 4 wires under plastic caps, just to be sure. Here's another helpful Tech Tip, courtesy of Atlantic Z's, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html