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Nope, they're pressed in too. I'm going for dependable pressure and getting an electric one.

I use phone/data wire to hold those bolts that thread into another part.

Dead end on the O'Reilly one. I'm giving it back.

Here's a reman from O'Reillys. It's upside down so I can't see Nikki written on the dome top but I bet it is. If not you could swap the tops. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDF0/M23049.oap?ck=Search_E-1080_-1_-1&keyword=E-1080&doInterchangeSearch=true EDIT: I just ordered one and should have it Wednesday before lunch, I'll put up some pictures.

That link went to the valve spring compressor you're getting, good choice too. Remember to fill the bores with cord or air pressure to keep the valves from falling. I used a long screwdriver handle on my first head removal, made me nervous but it worked. I think a lot of people make their own out of hardwood like oak, just remember to drill a hole at the top to put your pull cord through. Don't use a screw in eye bolt. I bought one of these and it makes all the difference to me, slides in and back out easily, $13. You'll spend that on wood and your time is worth something, right? http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-Nissan-Timing-Holding/dp/B0002Q8TV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443546200&sr=8-1&keywords=datsun+timing+chain+tool

I've never done it before but I've been told the cam can be replaced by jacking the front of the motor up to clear the radiator, if it needs replacing. I think I would end up pulling the head because of all the other stuff that would have to come off too, like the rocker arms and that retainer that needs to be replaced. I don't like working on the top of the motor in the car, the fenders are too thin and I always forget that.

I was thinking y'all were drunk or something.

Does your N47 towers have the holes for a spray bar? Mine did. You may need to source the block off plates.

I looked at mine yesterday and I'm NOT using the one that was on my '72 240. The '71s, until August, didn't even have one according to this microfiche. here's the different ones. My '72 had the small cap one in this picture. Now it has the L28E one. I checked zcarsource.com and MSA with no luck, sorry. Maybe somebody will help out, or you could find one at a junk yard? Good luck.

That'd be a great job for me! Very little actual work, just pointing out flaws and drawing smiley faces. I'm guessing they didn't get paid though? Illegible handwriting, -1 Sweat droplets on form, -1 Total score, 98. Nice! Thanks for sharing.

When I sent my cam to Schneider they used it as a core trade in and sent a nice clean cut cam back to me, I marked mine with a Dremel engraving bit to see. If you have some spare towers I'd use them, peace of mind for the future. I cleaned mine with 600 grit and WD-40, just enough to get a shiney finish inside the cam towers.

They've come a long way since the Womp Womps I had. And Cox cars, oh boy, those were the days.

See what vacuum you have, 15 hg and above is good. You'll need good vacuum to actuate the a/c idle increase.

Now that I think about it, I'm using the one that was on the 240 originally. It ran better with the adjustment hole maxxed out towards the top, counter clockwise I think. Patcon may be onto something there. Maybe the ZX plate has more adjustment? Maybe I need one!

I forgot I had half of my motor in my spare bedroom! You need that plate and then turn it 180 degrees. Here's mine;

Okay, I saw your other post with the pics. Looks to me like you're missing the adjusting plate? or whatever it's called.

Look at Blue's pictures here, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html It looks to be more around 8 o'clock.

I used some stuff from Eastwood, Diamond Clear Satin. I'm hopeful it won't yellow or peel off. It doesn't lay on top, it soaks into the fresh aluminium I'd glass bead blasted. It was my first attempt at sealing aluminium, I love that fresh look. Thanks for doing this, I'll be interested in your findings. The head on the bottom has been media blasted and sealed. The one on top has been steam cleaned at a machine shop. EDIT: I'm pretty sure these are after the Diamond Clear, the one above was just after cleaning.

Staying true to the Topic Title? Mystery fuel warning light

I'll add some height to the mole hill. When I was younger I always forgot to take that thing off before I put a new plug in my KX 80 dirt bike. It was a 2 stroke and I went through some plugs lugging around the neighborhoods trying to be quiet.

Woesa wowsa! I'm a frayed you're right Mr Knot. Thats been run a good bit more than I first realized, using my new phone and old eyes. Don't get another head off ebay, you'll get screwed. Maybe get by with another cam and rocker?

Happen to mine after a rebuild. Lash pad or rocker arm guide, I've heard them called both, came off the vale spring retainer then the rocker arm slid off the side. Shouldn't be a problem. Find the lash pad. Pry the valve spring down with a long screwdriver using the cam as a pry point, in between the slick lobes, the rough part of the cam. When the springs are compressed you can slide the rocker back on. Do a valve height adjustment and it should be fine. Most likely feel off because the valve was too loose. I flipped out when it happened to me but after hearing from the members here on how to fix the problem it was really easy. Never happened again either. 12 years sitting you'll need some other preventive work before cranking your car.

Air filters for your carburetors? If so, which ones do you have? I have the P/N for the stock oblong filter from Nissan, 16546-E3210, and K&N has a replacement filter. Nissan,

Hey George, I've got the Nissan P/Ns for the heater hoses and valve. It all cost around $100 from my local dealership. Let me know if you want them. Cliff

Mine had a terrible shake when I first bought it, rotors were warped and the tires had flat spots. New tires and brake pads, had the rotors turned too. No more shaking steering wheel. Here's a write up on going to a ZX electronic ignition and getting rid of the points, big improvement. Not sure what the difference would be for an automatic, dual points? The 240Z wiring diagram is towards the end of the article. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html You can get a rebuilt ZX distributor from just about any parts store, the one for a '79 is a good one. You'll need a ZX coil and distributor cap and rotor button, wider gapped plugs too. Cost me less than $200 for everything but I had the ZX mounting collar already, you can buy one from zcarsource.com, http://www.zcarsource.com/distributor-mounting-block-280zx-79-83-used_8_77859_66512.html If I remember right, the ZX coil is 1.5 amps, I use a Crane PS20 Fireball.