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Are you saying it doesn't work as good as a modern day system? Did you install it or pay someone? Have you fixed the other 17 problems you've complained about? I'm not trying to be a d*** but you're making it impossible not to be. There's been so much help given to you but you just ignore us. Nobody takes you serious anymore. I've typed this out of pity.

Nothing! He's alive and well, with a wonderful wife and daughter in college, he has a life too. Cliff

Mine stumble a bit when the oil cap is removed. Also there is a small bundle of wire inside the original valve cover hose, a trap of some sort? It may need to be removed and cleaned.

It seems like I've read a bunch of times that bad ground connections cause them to run rich? Vacuum leaks cause lean running. If I remember right, I've read so much on these cars.

The Throttle Position Switch could be stuck or sticking also. It should go off idle contact around 1500 rpms then hits the wide open contact at around 3500 rpm if i'm not mistaken. Pop the cover off and make sure. You can do it alone, twisting the throttle rod while eyeballing the vane. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

If you'll pop the cover off the afm and "finger" the weighted sweeper contact to make sure it moves nice and smoothe, those can get stuck after sitting for a long time. I bought one back in the late '80s for next to nothing because all it would do was idle. Trailered back to my Dad's and started fiddling with different things and found that the sweeper was stuck. Pushed it loose and sprayed some electrical cleaner on the contact path and it ran like a champ. Also in '78 they rerouted the PCV hoses to get the one from the valve cover away from the front of the throttle body. Google images of '78 280 PCV hoses and you'll see what I'm talking about. FWIW And I think most of us secure that black cover back on with zip-ties.

rcb280z, that's one helluva good signature!!! I hate to be a copycat, but I have to try that with mine.

I've never thought about what Jeff's saying but it sounds good. I made an aluminum fuel rail for my EFI 280 and it is held in place only by the 6 injectors rubber hoses. I've never had a problem with vapor lock. Now I will try and figure a way to get rubber heater hose in the place of the plastic on my 240, just in case. But some nice stainless braided hoses would look good too.

I would remove the AFM for cleaning the throat of the throttle body of carbon from the routing of the PVC hose with a toothbrush and lacquer thinner. Then you could inspect and clean the AFM on your workbench, some cleaning tips can be found here http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm Be extra careful with the rubber connecting boots, they'll crack in a heartbeat when you start moving them around. Maybe you could spray some type of lubricant on them the night before to help with removal and soften the rubber. Don't forget about the ground wire on the AFM. Good luck. Oh yeah, here's the Tech Tips page. Under "Electrical" you'll find the grounds that should be cleaned. http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Google Crane PS20 for the coil. That was most recommended by other forum members when I did mine. I think it's 1.5 ohms, works great compared to the yellow brand I had on another car. It overheated and leaked oil in a few months. You'll need a zx cap and button, they're bigger. You will have a larger plug gap also. I bought all my stuff from amazon.com, best prices at the time.

There's a good write up on refurbishing them in the Wick Humble "How to Restore Your Z" book. Paint mixing info and such. I've thought about trying it but haven't yet, I bought some Koning Rewinds for now. I'd like to have a nice set if I ever sale one. If you don't have the book, I could scan the page for you. Cliff

My lungs were treated in high school with a good thick coating.

The $850 ones have sold, price not listed but said "best offer accepted". The other set is at $128 now, with 7 bids? That's not too bad. I'd gladly pay $100 for a set as nice, but no E-bay. My bad! Canadian money is more, sorry.

We're talking about a different forum. Not Blue or Mike. Done!

If I'm thinking about the same guy, I'm with you. He could shove all his knowledge up his impulsive a**. If you're not helping, the ranting and raving makes you seem ignorant no matter what you know. I think the hot California sun mixed with some intoxicants has made him irreverent.

I'm positive he's with us! I bet if I posted something even dumber than my normal ones, he'd ring my phone at least. He has a good heart and loves to help out dummies like me. I understand why he dropped out, there's people on here that don't like any opinions other than theirs. It's a damn public forum! Who cares if he doesn't like Chinese junk, move on to another thread and help somebody. Lets see who comes after me now.

Very easy and inexpensive parts-a-plenty. You're going to surprised at what your local dealership can get overnight. I've got a file full of part numbers for my '77. Just ask. That motor was used until '84 Maxima.

Yes, great looking '77! It has some shine to it. I gambled on a none running car and bought it for less than half asking price, it is nerve racking and tough to keep your poker face. This was a bad distributor and cruddy fuel tank. $200 in parts and some elbow grease and now it's my favorite car, EVER. Congratulations. Lots of help here, lots of '77 owners. Cliff

I don't know if you've read this yet but it's pretty well written and informative. Babalouie, about post #4 I've got a set but way too intimidating right now, I'm just getting comfortable with the simplistic SUs.

I bought a gallon, way too much!, of Rustoleum flat oil and a gallon of high gloss. Then mixed 50/50 for a nice satin finish for my suspension parts but I'm thinking I'll go 75/25 for a glossier finish on my oil pan. Looking at a ton of pictures, the oil pan has more sheen. I used a rattle can of Rustoleum grey etching primer after a good cleaning with 220 grit sanding sponge. Get a new copper washer for the plug while you're at it and hammer down around the edge. I used a 5 lb sledge and a small piece of 1x4. I've read the same about POR 15, not worth the trouble for something that'll never get touched. I'll spray it today, next door kids played in their yard all day yesterday and they're parents are freaks when they smell something chemically.

I like it! You've got a little Blue and some red in your blood. But more precision and finesse! I knew it when you first came around, those Ducatis are like artwork.

Having a hard time replying with my Samsung phone? Anyway, my '77 5 speed has the rails and the ones I'm using on my 240 are off a '79 ZX 5 speed. Maybe they were on the auto 240s? Both my '72s 4 speeds do not have them though. I think that extra flange looking thing on the straight side is for the autos though? Maybe the line to the radiator protection somehow? Do not know for sure but they are on my five speeds. FWIW. Steve I'm kinda on the edge with my carbs. I just had rebuilt them thinking the car would run better but of course that wasn't the fix so I pulled the motor in a all out effort. I hope it pulls after this. At least past six thousand! It was flat at about fifty five hundred before. I know theres more. My 110 red and white stock hits six grand in a heartbeat. This orange one was off a tooth or two somewhere. I never could figure it out and I like to tinker more than drive, (read DRINK)! Cliff

I've got those two flat steel bars for the rear of the pan I'll be using, for sure. I guess the reason they only did the rear is because thats where the load is? 5 quarts is pretty heavy with such a fragile pan, i.e dimpling and low torque specs. That's my guess. Rossi your are great idea, ah ha! inspiration person! You always have a good common sense reply that make me think "why didn't I think of that" Thank you both. Now back downstairs for more sanding, I'm painting the pan and rails black like they should be.

I've got acetone and lacquer thinner and could get some mineral spirits, I use a good bit of oil based paint. I'll try acetone first. It would evaporate before damaging the seals. No, no. If I do what you say and dribble it through the ports directly onto the valve, it'll never get to the seals! I'm looking forward to doing this, got the desire back after a short lull. Damn leaky oil pan made me mad, I thought I'd done a good job. Thank you Mark!

Thanks for reminding me about that Mark, I'll write that in "what to do next" timeline/steps. The first head I tried to reassemble I put the springs on and forgot the valve seals. It seems like someone said rubbing alcohol would be good? What would you recommend? Thanks again Cliff