siteunseen

Your right Jai, love is blind. I've been down that road before and that's why I said what I did, experience. I had an '81 911 that I loved and worked on constantly spending a life's savings. Sold it and bought a Camry then I was able to buy the Zs from cutting my losses with the Porsche. I apologize for speaking my mind but as stated above you could spend $1,500 at least on a good a/c for Red Bird. Hopefully a $100 worth of R-12a Red Tek will get you through the summer. I just got a Nissan Sentra with cold air for $500. It's not pretty but runs good and gets 35 MPG plus bone chilling air. Cheap grocery getters are out there. I don't see how you do it, I'm 47 and can hardly get out of mine. Working on it myself saves me money but I turn around and spend that on pain pills and stay in bed the next day.

When my dizzy is spinning with the motor at 2,500 rpms those weights are out? The vacuum advance should stay unhooked and plugged at high rpms too like setting initial timing at idle? I'm going to understand this one way or the other!

I'm thinking if you removed the float chamber lids you'd see something similar to mine when I first bought the car. The floats should sit fairly level or parallel with the lids. The opposite of my picture.

So simply put, set the initial to 17 degrees at 750 RPMs. Since I have 8.5 weights, add 17 for a total of 34 degrees on my dial back light. At 2,500 RPMs with the light set to 34 I should adjust the distributor until the big notch (TDC) on the pulley lines up with the pointer, 0 degrees. That would give me total advance of 34. Drive it and see how it performs? What should the vacuum pull on the front carb be at 2,500 RPM? I'll hook my vacuum gauge up and get some numbers and report back. Thanks guys

It's not a problem with the fuses, I had a bad alternator. I like the 280 fuse panel better than the 240, more fuses that single out more circuits. When that one fuse blew on my 240 it killed just about everything the key activates. Your's will be fine now that it has a fuse in there. The fusible links in the engine bay is a whole other story. Lot's of people upgrade those. You can't buy one at the local 7-11 when they melt.

I was going off my 240. When I had a bad alternator in there it popped that fuse as soon as I turned the key. I read it was back charging through the ignition circuit and burning that fuse. On a 240 it's a single 20 amp fuse. Glad you fixed it. 8^)

Google images SUs too for reference or go to Ztherapy. Com for more images. I about to go out dancin' and chasing thongs. I'm no help.

Read this thread, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39221-quick-and-dirty-su-tuning/

I'm sorry I can't help you more now, I'm using my phone. I can help better in the morning when I have my laptop. Maybe someone can chime in before then? The nozzles are at the very bottom of the carbs and should move move freely with the throttle linkage. 2.5 turns counter clockwise is a base starting point. Mine run best at three to the 3.5 turns down. Let me get back to this in the morning, I'm enjoying some cold beers at the moment.

Set the valve clearance also.

Make sure the nozzles are moving freely. 2.5 turns down to start with. Don't get pissed but make sure the flatter side side of the valve cover gasket is right, other way and you'll have a vacuum leak.

David Copperfield of Z parts. 8^)

That's the IGN I beleive, 20 amp. What the hell is a caliberado? Curious on that, not familiar with the word. Me speakie no spanish.

Thank you Mr Warner. I'll have to read that a few times to wrap my head around it though. 8^)

If it's what I'm thinking I went around mine with a wooden wedge and tapped it with a hammer. Mine wasn't leaking but rubbing where the drive shaft sled up into that. Made a scrapping sound until I tapped it out evenly. I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing though. 8^(

The truth hurts so here goes, trade Red-Bird for a Camry or Accord unless your husband left a little insurance policy so you can buy one. I paid $2,000 for my '00 eight years ago and have 279,000 on it now. I could get in it right now and drive to drink coffee with Zed Head on the west cost in a day or two. I love Zs but they're toys after 40 years.

Could we plug yours and leave them on? Put some increment markings on there. Would the air box still fit? I really like your's. 8^)

They may not be NLA but Nissan would be high $$$. Try and find a part number, Courtesey Nissan would have one. I think a reman would be fine, for what thats worth. 8^)

I imagine it's also, according to him, NLA.

Trickery

Can you help me out @Jeff G 78

I think I'll need a vacuum pump to get to 20 off the distributor? Then I eliminate that from my total. So with a vacuum pump I need to dial back my light to 27? Sorry to be a pita but the unknown scares me.

If the vacuum is unhooked do I still add the 20 into my total? Should it be 47 or 27? Or should the vacuum advance be hooked up instead of plugged? Thanks for any help, I'm confused once again.

I can was thinking the same Chas, wasn't 100 percent though. Check zcardepot too.

My 12 volt battery connects straight to the starter? California datsun does a lot of smoke and mirror tricks in their advertising.