siteunseen

Good way to keep your trans oil inside for a couple of bucks is use a rubber cap from a hardware store. Worked good for me when removing and pressure washing.

Glad to help. Here's those retainers and the 190 lash pads that I'll have to file down to size as Lumens did. He bought the same Cam that I did.

I have that as a text message for my smart phones "Don't Answer" option.

I'm gonna say stock valves, stock keepers will work. When I bought my cam, I got everything needed according to Schneider and I did get a taller set of retainers but no new keepers or new valve seals. Here's what I'm using and why, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/ and installation precaution here, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68120-problem-with-viton-valve-seals/ They're only $15 from Advance Auto. I put a set on an E88 head I'm running now just to get some practice on installing, I measured 47 times and cut once. The trick that I learned was not to use a deep socket but a 6" section of 1/2" PEX plastic pipe after seeing a "valve seal installation tool". This one is made of PVC,

It looks like a turbo car. I don't think you can go much funner without spending some cash and possibly failing the smog test. Look around on here and you may find something you like for the body and interior, http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT Good looking car "as-is" imo.

Dear Santa Claus... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/25-1210

Try Schneider cams. They sent p/n 68022 with my cam, 460 lift. I'm almost positive they have the taller ones for our L motors.

I was only notifying Mr Kerrigan through the Forum. It's been a couple of years since he posted that. Best of luck. Cliff

Yes, stop that heat from circulating through your carburetors. All you need is the 1 minute of choke at start up. Mine's been plugged for awhile now and runs great. Engine coolant temperature at idle is 175F, running in my garage.

Yes I agree, that looks good in the car. Here's what I was looking at maybe a little too long.

Don't feel too bad. With the U-Haul trailer I used the car had to be pulled all the way forward with the front tires up against the front lip of the trailer. The front tires roll over the strap then you pull the strap up and over the tires, ratcheting them down. Really no other way, the straps and ratchets are not movable plus you have to have some tongue weight. Like Loudoun's picture above.

This might get you a quicker response, that's an older post. @Kerrigan

I painted mine the same as the block and didn't like it, went back to matte black. Too much blue but I was looking at mine on a motor stand, you can hardly see it installed with the hood up looking down. Question: what in the world is that big yellow and black thing behind your car? Fumigating a house?

I wondered about that Chuck and decided to tighten all my straps down then put the car in gear and the E-brake on. My thinking was the straps would have a constant pull on my tranny and E-brake. To each his own. Oh yeah! Don't forget to let the driver's side fender down on the trailer before you pull onto it. You'll be climbing out the hatch if you forget.

The one I got was grey like Mr Arnett's and the tie down hooks were at the rear, beside the brake lights. I used regular cheapo ratchet straps and looped the ends around the axle and connected the hook to the strap, as I tightened them it pulled that tighter. To be honest the front tire harnesses and ratchets will hold the car fine by themselves. The rear ones just kept the rear of my car from bouncing while in transit, FYI, no need in anything fancy. I didn't even cross mine, just straight back.

If you have one or can borrow one, a 4" bench vise worked great on my dimpled pan. Get an inch/pound torque wrench from a chain parts store's loaner tool program if you can, that's where I messed up. I used my foot/pound set on 5 then 7.5 then 10, leaked like crazy at the front corners where I tightened too tight. After getting the inch/pound wrench I ended at "84 or 7ft./lbs. I used a Nissan gasket though, maybe different on those red ones from MSA? The longer bolts go over the flat metal rails. Good luck, don't eat a big breakfast.

I had a good experience using the U-Haul car transporter like Mr Arnett shows above. My $.02 worth, park the truck and trailer going down hill before you load the 240. It lowers the chances of scrubbing where the ramps meet the trailer. It's a close fit so make sure and have someone watching your tires and the center of the trailer (don't try it by yourself, trust me). Drive it for about 10 or 15 minutes on the highway then pull off and retighten the straps. They pull so good you'll' forget it's back there, they have trailer brakes but still you don't want to run up on an almost stopped car. Park under an over-pass if it starts hailing or something but with the car being so small and tucked in behind the tow vehicle it'll barely get wet if it's just a normal rainfall, I ran into one during my trip. I set the cruise on 75 and turned up the radio after about 30 minutes, it's a breeze. Glad you are getting your Z back where it belongs.

Yeah I use both but had to trim the vertical one to fit over one of the primary tubes coming off the header, very little trimming just to keep it from touching and possibly rattling at some point. On that stud kit, I don't remember having any left over but that doesn't mean much. In my picture you'll see the shield notch and another place I forgot to mention, where the header touches the bell housing. Your's may not rub but mine did and I had to slightly grind the bell house to keep the header from touching. You need to run the shields or it'll melt your PCV hose, red with black marking on my picture.

I have the MSA ceramic coated 6-1 on both my Zs and love them. Neater engine bay, less heat under the hood and the SOUND!!! pair that with the Premium 2.5" exhaust and it don't get much better. The heat reduction has been considered one of the better solutions to the EFI cars "hot restart" problem. I've never had it with mine but I also have an aluminium fuel rail that helps also. They'll have that stuff on sale for the holidays too. In my opinion throw their stud kit in the trash and use something better, Nissan still makes them for a bunch of other cars. My last rebuild I used the SS one's from zcardepot.com and am very happy with them. https://zcardepot.com/engine/exhaust/exhaust-manifold-stainless-steel-stud-kit-240z-280z.html

I think when people use @Mike 's forum to sale a Z they should make a donation for his work keeping this forum running smoothly. We all pick it apart and say if it's a deal or not and that has to affect the sale, good or bad (mostly good). It's common sense leaving a good tip when you have good service.

It's the art of a deal, ask Donald J. Backtracking, #1.

It's a ZX e12-80 distributor? I've read where people have sprayed the black "matchbook" ignition modules with $.99 compressed air for cleaning keyboards. When it won't start, spray it to cool it down and see if it cranks. If so, replace.

The tach's signal is fed from the distributor. @Zed Head is most likely right.

Yes. I would do both if it were mine and I was having problems with percolation. Take one of the old fittings to the parts supply and match it up. I used brass NPT 1/8 I think but don't really remember, take the old ones for comparison. EDIT: Looking back I see I used the old threaded plugs off the balance tube but you can get brass plugs at any hardware store. I started on the passenger's side, that hose pulls from the rear intake. Plugging it at the water pump eliminates the metal tube running behind the head to the rear intake, threaded plug goes into the intake. Picture #2 Then plug the front intake, Then plug the thermostat housing,