siteunseen

I found the thread and I need to apologize. It was my lash pad or rocker guide that fell off the valve spring. The rocker actually stayed on top of the valve spring retainer it was just super loose but straight. Looking at your's I don't think you would have gone too far without damaging something. Mine...

I agree, looks good. I was breaking in my "just rebuilt" '77 and about 30 minutes from home I hear a terrible clicking from the head. Slowly back roaded it back home and found the same thing, a rocker had jumped off. Put it back on after asking the guys on here. Never had another problem.

Too add more info from my experience today. I've realized what I thought was a long time sitting problem where I have to tap my float chambers with a rubber handled screwdriver to get mine to crank after a month or so turns out my lids were loose, not terribly loose but the 4 screws needed a few rounds to get them snug again. That could be the reason the bowls were empty, evaporation from not snug lids? I know @dutchzcarguy said he had to pop his to. Maybe this would be helpful to you Mart. Everything is back to normal now. I had leaking lids on start up which could be disastrous out on the freeway. I assume the new filters gave me better psi and caused the constant dripping of fuel onto my 6to1 header runners. Thank you all for the help over the years. Couldn't have been a better team effort from all of you. I'll always be in debt to CZCC members.

Finally got around to buttoning up this little project. Now I know for my 2/72 240Z after completing draining the tank and replacing two fuel filters, OE on the firewall and precautionary one right out of the tank, 5 gallons of fuel puts my gauge on EMPTY. When it was dry as a bone the gauge needle wouldn't move and was a quarter of an inch below EMPTY. Lesson for me going foward: when my gauge gets to Empty I still have 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. I like knowing that to be positively true for my car. And Red-Kote is a fantastic tank liner as I have not seen any type of failure since 2015 when I lined the tank. Good day.

I bought a 2.4 motor with an E88 head once and it had a really gassy smell. Started disassembling and saw that the the head was squeaky clean under the valve cover. Turned out to be a flooding carb was dumping all that fuel then mixing off the head into the oil. Did you use new injectors? You may have one that is over spraying or possibly the CSV is dumping too much fuel? Just a thought...

I've always read that if you can spin the fan blades around more than one or 1.5 complete rotations while the car is off and "cold" the clutch could be bad. Another way that's a little trickier is if you can stop the running fan with a piece of cardboard it's most likely bad. They're oil filled so it should be harder to spin freely by hand before cranking while the oil is cool. They are cheap, or used to be , available and not too hard to replace. I'm more concerned about the oil pressure gauge.

I put a 5 speed in my '72 but it popped out of gear. I removed the shift lever and saw some scratch and nick marks where it was hitting something, I can't remember what now but after I ground down where those nicks where it has worked fine. Just my experience, hopefully you will avoid this. Here's some threads on the different shifters you can read through when you have time.

I'm still climbing through the hatch to unlock the driver's door lock on my '77. 240 has no operational locks. It's an occasional driver but never a parker.

I've made a, wait for it...... huge mistake! You are already in the old. You just need the fuel pump for your SUs. My bad!

I can see the lines on my '72's, right past the hole for the rubber.

By the time I would buy an automatic Z the used prices will be much lower.

I would do the ZX as much as possible but not all the EFI wiring, run SUs.

You can move the 2 plates in the dizzy to tell if they're frozen or not. Sounds like your firing order may be off. 153624 is what it should be. The cap has a raised line on the outside where #1 should be, then counter clockwise from 1 around to 4. The front spark plug is #1 through 6 which is closest to the windshield.

My '72 has an arrow mounted on the front cover I think. The degree marks are on my pulley as in nothes. The largest being 0, or tdc.

Here's the "Queen bean with sweet tea". This has been like a ship's wheel for me, "driving me nuts" for the last 2 years. Finally starting to care about the cars again so I've drained the old fuel and will replace all filters tomorrow. Exmark is completely full BTW. Sitting off and on for 2 years. It ain't good. But no sign of Red-Kote! Hurray me.

https://www.tmz.com/2022/08/08/street-outlaws-fastest-america-ryan-fellows-killed-crash-dead-dies/

Driver's side is reversed. The right side is "right".

Got my 240Z OEM door mirror from local Nissan parts department shelf I have stocked with potential use stuff. Thought about cataloging all of them with my part number "supersedes" master list I have put into use. The 1st photo shows the superb quality of the mirror. It's no surprise Nissan choose to save weight and the potential for 7 years of bad luck without an additional right side mirror.

IPLooks like an early console? 75 & 76 maybe. My 'early '77 like your model has the lid that opens towards the passenger's side (duh). The ashtray looks different in these pics. Maybe it's the heat but I'm confused!

One of my favorites too. The white with blue interior is the other one. They look best in your driveway/garage hopefully paid for.

To add to Steve's post... I've read about a set screw on the arm of the sending unit somewhere but can't find it this morning and I've got poop-ton of stuff to do today so here's the best thread I've found so far.

That's what makes this forum work so well. A lot of experiences thrown at the problem and 1 or two stick, also known as the shotgun approach.

From what I remember the e12- 80 used 1.5 ojm coil from Nissan. That ps 20 is 1.4 so close enough for me. I had a bigger ZX cap and button and run ZX larger gap on my ngks. It goes hard to Redline without breaking up. I have to up shift quick. Need a better gearing than the r-180 but I don't need to beat my car. It's 50 and has 50 year old parts back there. But those 1,ooo or so feet are fun and with my exhaust it screams a dry bloody murder like a Ferrari or a gsxr1.

Couldn't he come off the balance tube's locations? Or find the right size brass tube and JB weld it in place on the front carb. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-Brass-Plain-Tube/3478161?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-LIA_HDW_126_Fastening-_-3478161-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_o2dusGt-QIVbnxvBB2RTQ_NEAQYASABEgL4ZPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I agree with Steve, you need plugs and wires. I buy stuff online and get it the local store cheaper using coupon codes. My best one was retailmenot.com but that was 4 years ago since I tried it. I had a Nissan d21 that ran like crap until i replaced wires plugs, cap and button 10 years ago at least. Just drove it for grass cutting fuel jugs refill. Runs great. The distributor cap had some kind of cracking going on and it was jumping spark. It wouldn't fall out of a tree but now it'll drive up one.