siteunseen

I think the 240s are growing on Mr Wright. My magic 8 ball says "outlook good" when I asked if you would have one.

Looks fantastic! I see a greenish tint, not blue. Whatever it's "ish" it looks really good.

Here's my cheap Stop Tec rotors. I'm happy with them and the ceramic pads I'm running. No brake dust or squealing. Street driving only. They have a left and right p/n.

That shows your hard work pays off, not actual money but smiles and trophies. Money comes later with all those trophies and accolades.

Summer gas?

It's Groundhog Day everyday up there.

Life's tough isn't it. 80F here and 1 hour on the back roads. I needed to mix the new gas with the old.

They look upside down to me?

Quit calling it a pig! Rub her gently and whisper in the pillar emblem, "okay Baby Doll we gonna do this nice and slow". Chickuh, bow-wow, right now!

You're most welcome. I wish I could do more, I know you are frustrated.

Here's the best pictures and the PDF files. IMG.pdf IMG_0001.pdf

I found my ZX transmission and f54 motor at a junkyard, $200. Paid a transmission guy $100 to look inside and put new seals in. He says those transmissions are pretty much bullet proof. $800 seems high to me, they are plentiful around here. That's the wide B. If it's rebuilt and all cleaned up plus delivered and i needed it then $800 doesn't sound too bad. I have read that the shift rods can get out of alignment while delivering and they won't go in gear. ZedyOneKenobi had that happen to one from zcarsource.com

I have a '79 2+2 transmission in my '72. The ZX shifter wouldn't work with my console and boots. They are straight and my boots are angled toward the back. Some grinding of the '72 shifter worked for me. I put the 240 speedo cog in the ZX transmission, new oil seal around the speedo cable too. I like it. 75 @2,200rpm.

There's a trick Tom Monroe uses in his book I can scan tomorrow morning for you to read. It helped me get mine right on the first or second try. Something about putting one bolt in and turning the pump body to cover the other bolt holes then push it the rest of the way on. I'll get it for you to read over and see what you think, asap Saturday a.m

Cleaning those sensors in the thermostat housing is cheap and easy to do. 220 grit sandpaper works good.

If you get in a bind with the exhaust hanging let us know, we've all been there before, they can be a pain the in rectum.

If your teacher has an interest, and he should, that's your best bet. Act like you want to sale it but DON'T.

Whoof! You have a previous owner's jimmy rigging to sort out. We can help but you need to get a wiring diagram first, that's what eveybodies gonna say. Play the game, you'll get answers you need. Best of luck.

You need to find the radio power wire and tap it up. Sounds like it's bare and blowing fuses.

A battery charger is what I'm talking about.

A 2 amp all night charge works for mine, I don't drive it enough to keep up the charge. Your alternator belt could be loose also. You could try spraying the turn signal stalk with electrical cleaner, CRC makes a good product.

Your next initiation is replacing my struts. My turn signals give me problems when my battery charge is low. After a good charge they work fine. Probably not causing your problem but it's worth a try.

Looks like good timing to me. That friction disc and pressure plate have seen better days. Are you going to resurface the flywheel?

I'm sorry but I haven't had a chance to look yet, I'm curious too. Here's what I'm going to follow,