siteunseen

I'm grasping at straws here but have you checked the gap on those plugs, IF they are the only ones that are fouled?

Would you not replace the coils of wires on the stator? I had summer job at an electric motor business and we baked them overnight, cut the old coils out and put new windings in then dipped it into a vat of resin. Sanded the resin off the magnets then put the armature back in. Those were three phase motors though and completely different from all I know but they sure looks like this photo of an alternator stator.

And shake it all about. You're a nut Hokey Pokey!

Did you ever try swapping those plug wires with known good ones? Maybe #2 & #4 are long enough?

It's a show from the '70s.

We have a shop here but they're Monday through Friday and I needed it today or else would have to let my Mom drive on of my cars. I love my Mother more than myself but she thinks cars are like appliances, use them till they quit then buy another. Second place on my love list.

Another new reman alternator failed from advance auto today for me. I bought a reman a couple of years ago for my 240. As soon as I turned the key to on it popped the fuse, no gauges no nothing. Today I get another one for Mom's car, failed after installing July 2015. Asked them to test the new one, they rolled their eyes but I said this isn't like changing out a battery or light bulb TEST IT! please. 4 times the machine kicked a breaker/reset. They said the alternator was good that their machine was bad. But it worked fine failing the old one so I got a little upset and showed my arse a little bit. He carried it across the street to an AutoZone and had them test it, FAILED. Went to another advance across town and had one of theirs tested. Passed with all green OKs. Lesson i learned today, always have the new stuff tested before I leave the store. I'm joining the club of reman stuff sucks!

zcardepot.com shows the dual reservoir to be 7/8" and the single at 15/16" where it goes into the booster. Maybe check and see if you can find more detail at rockauto.com or anywhere else. zcardepot doesn't show the hole diameter of the boosters. O'reilly's has the right MC for $35, non stocking 2 day deal. I just woke up and my eyes are still blurry, sorry. Good luck on your hunting. ?

That looks great. What speed did you use on the drill? Thanks for the details, my next fun thing to do. Cliff

Seems like @Diseazd guy at Datsun Spirit does a "swirl" polish on his? Quick read says polishing the back side gives better results. Sounds like I'll be copy catting Matt and Takhli. Something to do one day.

Are both of them longer or just one? My '72 had longer pin arms? on the front carb and the OE valves had one long one for the front and a shorter on the rear. If they are not a whole lot longer I would think you could use them and adjust the float as you said. As long as the float doesn't hit the walls of the float chambers you'd be good, I think. ? Here's a picture of a pair with the two different lengths I bought. If I remember right the valves came from Black Dragon, according to the guy I bought them from.

Mine would pop out of reverse as soon as the clutch released but if I kept pressure on it all was good backing out of the driveway. I could shift to 5th at about 4,000rpm and when it got down to less than 3 or 2,500 it would pop out. Drove my nuts until I pulled the shift rod and saw the strike marks front and back. Ground some material off once or twice then it was good to go. Hopefully you'll be fine, no problems.

Me too and love it. 75MPH turns about 2,200RPM on the interstate with the R180 diff. Did you guys run into any problems with the OE 240 shift rod? Mine hit the tunnel cut out and wouldn't stay in 5th or reverse. I ground some off the nose end and all is good now. I'm thinking I've already told this but my mind seems to be getting fuzzier and fuzzier.

Looks close to these from MSA, big time Datsun supplier. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3051MK I went through the same trouble when I replaced mine, it's like top secret info or Bigfoot. Impossible to get details.

To the rotors!

That'd buy Richard a lot of hair gel.

From all I've read the SUs are temperature sensitive, they need some heat. My '72 has a winter and summer flap on the snorkel of the air box plus a heat riser connected to the bottom. My 2008 Stihl blower also has a winter and summer setting behind the air filter. There's got to be something to it, something about atomization I believe it's called. If you could source an OE air cleaner you could get all the hoses back where they belong. My $.02.

J◇B

You were Sunday Lunch punch drunk.

There's one on the front carb that works the vacuum advance on the distributor but it's ported vacuum and only increases when the butterfly opens. If it were my turd I'd take that "cold air intake" off first then start figuring it out. When I was getting my carbs set I ran without an air cleaner for a week or so. I did cover the throats with rags everyday when I was done though, bugs and whatnot don't need to get in there overnight.

Need to add...Something to watch while you wait on the DVD from Ztherapy. It's fantastic.

@Jarvo2 Found a good youtube video on SUs. 2 or 3 installments if I remember right. I can't find it now, sorry.

The short rod is missing from the fast idle screw for some reason. I've never told a new member to download the Service Manual on my first reply but you need it bad.

Beautiful car Dan Hansen. That's a cool sounding name too, Dan Hansen.

Their Mom and Dad!