siteunseen

Richard's getting rich and cocky, like Jesse James did a few more years ago. They've all gone the way the Teutul's did, Pawn Stars, American Pickers, Guy Fieri, etc. Except Danny "Count" Koker. He seems unchanged IMHO. Money, is does a body bad but I'd like to try it out and see for myself.

Malcolm and brother Angus Young founded one of the best bands in my lifetime, AC/DC. Sad day for many fans. https://youtu.be/ZqT2bfVYRe4

Sad for their kid I guess is what I meant, or maybe the Corvette?

Imho electric fans are overkill unless your car runs hot. They're a pretty big pull on the electrical so you'd need to upgrade all that first. Luckily mine is in a good temp range with the larger 280 rad and a full shroud. There's some guys on here that live in a lot hotter climate than I do and others that get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for extended amount of time. So the big aluminums are good with fans for some driving conditions, just not mine.

Divorce!?! I have a friend that happened to. '74 corvette with ax blade chops found by the investigators in the burnt garage and house. Woman that was caught in an affair and got nothing came back and committed arson. 12 months in jail, soccer Mom too. Sad story.

I'm happy with a 3 row brass and cooper 280z from Advance in my 240Z. It's black and looks good, more original than those aluminum ones people run. If your high performance then you may need the aluminium, but that's like K&N cold air filters, not needed on a Z. The only question was it sits 2" deeper than the OE. But after reading a bunch and physically measuring before I bought it I realized its even with the cross bar under the radiators. If I hit bottom it'll hit the cross member first. Cools about 173 degrees without air flow sitting in my garage. Another plus is a full shroud from a ZX will fit. $139 I think it was and runs cooler with more coolant capacity.

He asked for my address and I flipped out! He's OG in my book.

That's one of the best I've read in the time I've been on here. Thank you so much! People like you (and me) who appreciate the help from more experienced members is what got me hooked on this forum. I'd never rebuilt a car motor before and have terrible anxiety but getting help and forming friendships here I feel like I can do anything to a straight six L motor. You'll have a great experience with your car knowing your out of your comfort zone but have thousands of people just waiting to chime in and help. Helping is a way of paying back what we have learned here. I know I'll do whatever I can. Oh yeah, welcome to our forum!

Anybody know if I can get the glass replaced? Can they bend the metal back and insert a beveled mirror replacement? Thanks for any experiences, advice. Here's all I've found so far.

Not my cup of tea, I like the beer here.

Here's another thread that helped me. It's not the FSM but I did copy and paste the steps and print them out, I put mine under the driver's wiper blade. Still have that piece of paper. The way it looks I assume that's the "dirty" part.

Here's the one, lots of ideas and opinions plus a bunch of joking around but something may make sense or a light bulb in your head. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55190-float-level-advice-please/

The new valves are pretty tough to get right, for me anyway. If you followed the Ztherapy dvd they're way off. I took me a year to get mine right. First red flag was the ramps on the floats were at about a 45 degree angle. They should be about level. You hold the lid upright and blow through the fuel inlet, pushing the float up until the air shuts off. That'll get you close then rig up a glass and mark that 23mm from the inside roof of the lids. Get it to stop flow at that line. I have some pictures I can post in the morning. The new valves are sensitive and won't hold the weight of the floats upside down like the dvd shows. You have to do them right side up.

That was funny. I did It too. They'd bounce it a couple of times before trying the handle.

I balanced my piston/rods combo. Had to add a weight onto my triple beams, a railroad spike, to get them to handle the weight. They were all over the place on weight so I took a die grinder and skint the heavier ones down to the lightest one. The sides of the rods is what I ground off, easy to do. I didn't have the crank balanced after all I've read about them being good from the beginning. I could see grind marks on the counter weights and assumed that was from factory balancing? I think it's worth the hour or so to do the pistons/rods. Seems like they were around 800 grams and I ended up at 775, that's almost an ounce difference.

I just watched it, it took him a second but the classic "ahh naw".

Good name for a friend. My Buddy...

Righteous Roy wouldn't look so foolish and perverted if he knew the Datsun Golden Rule for the firing order 15-36-24.

See if you can drive an upside down screwdriver between the tensioner and the other side. I used a pretty bing Craftsman.

So that was pre construction of the blueprints you put up a year or so ago? The one that had the "potting room" for your wife? The brick and that power going through the wall on the driver's side of the Safari Gold one makes me think it's an addition to your house or the first garage? Anyway I see plenty of room for my sleeping bag and I'll just use a 5 gallon bucket for my toilet. Just teasing, looks awesome!

You could also shoot some carb cleaner with the little red straw if they're bad gummed up.

My garage is so tight I can't believe my one and only driver side is still attached. Guy doesn't seem to have that problem though. Seeing those cubes of block I'm anxious to hear what's next.

Oh yeah unhook the choke arm. Unhook everything and twist it.

I'm no expert but when it happened to a set I bought I disconnected the hose and twisted the nozzle until it would pull out. It just old gas/ varnish that has it stuck. Pull the hose and slowly turn it until it loosens up.

R.I.Pieces