siteunseen

I would put something over the fresh steel or it will rust. The inner part of the one I have open is sort of an off white, grey? looking color.

These are pretty neat, cost as much as my car though. https://datsunspirit.com/shop/itb-setup-for-l6/

Sorry Mike and his family. Your pictures show he was one of the guys. Always sad to lose a friend.

That's a tough job. I removed mine once and tore my head gasket trying to get it back on but the motor was on a stand so it wasn't as bad as what you did. Congratulations.

I love it when new members say screw this, I'm sick of arguing with you guys- I'm out...then come right back. You're not going to win here, get some sleep.

That's a cool looking spoiler Andreas. I like mine and it's the basic one. I have the front one too, I like the look.

What's the trick? ZX fan is deeper to keep off the radiator I have, '77, '78 3 row. Do I need a ZX fan clutch to get the clearance? The ZX fan has an extra blade that has to help pull more air. Thanks to anybody that has figured this out for a reply. I'm stumped and not feeling too FAN-tastic.

I think it has the plastic piece at the bottom. I have a bunch of spare parts so if it didn't come with the reman I robbed another distributor. Does it not serve as a bushing in the spindle hole? I'm sure you know this but I'll say it because I didn't. You need a ZX cap and rotor button, they're bigger. I installed mine one Saturday morning and had to rush to the local import parts house before noon and get both.

I can't find my intake pictures this morning, too many attachments to go through and not enough time. here's an easy one that you can do if you haven't yet. Before... After...

Yes, great work! You're one of the crew I'd take to the Moon. I think you could fix anything on the Shuttle with some simple tools.

I did not know that, thank you. Here's what I bought from amazon.com, https://www.amazon.com/Cardone-31-619-Remanufactured-Import-Distributor/dp/B000C46L52 So the numbers stamped in the dizzy body mean nothing? I ordered a '79 model and the numbers matched the '79 on the Excel spreadsheet. Oh well, it runs good to me so I'm not disappointed. Thanks for all the information you've provided in your post. Cliff

I was thinking the later zxs have the e12-93 electronic ignition? They have two connections on the black box, one on top and one on the side. I think the second is for a sensor on the crank. Can you use those on our cars or is it only the single connection e12-80? Another thing, the vacuum advance weights have the weight stamped in them, mine are 8.5 I think, '79zx. The way I was thinking is total advance at 2,500 or 3,000 rpm is double the weight number. Mine is set @ 34 on total and 17 at idle if I remember right. Mine likes the higher degree, i think it's maxed out on the adjustment plate. Just some memories from when I built my 2.4.

The inner rubber and outer pleather boots won't jive with a zx stock shifter. They're straight up where the boots are angled toward the rear of the car. I ground a notch in front and the backside on a Z shifter, works great now. Before it would pop out of 5th and reverse.

Do you use it during the winter? I enjoy working on mine as much as driving it, maybe even more than driving. I like beer, a lot. Bead blasting really makes things like new too. Coat the fresh aluminum with Never Dull wadding polish for the carbs, high heat clear matte or satin on the intakes. I'll post some pictures in the morning of how mine turned out.

You need a rope and another vehicle, you won't be able to actually push start it like a motorcycle. If you have an Advance Auto around, buy the starter online with a 30% off coupon code from retailmenot.com. I bought one a few years ago for $20. Good luck.

Wishful thinking, but hopefully they won't be too far off. Are you the Doctor, maybe his PA?

Look around the insides of the rear wheels. My '77 is leaking at the wheel cylinder causing a "top off" of the smaller reservoir. It's hard to see after driving though, maybe put some newspaper down fill it up and pump the brakes. Check it the next couple of days. Or pull the wheels off. Good luck, you'll need those brakes when you least expect it. My '72's brake booster went bad, hard pedal, I replaced it and found it was full of brake fluid. Replaced the master cylinder then. Brakes are like replacing old plumbing, once you start it all begins to drip somewhere.

Would anybody recommend using a thread locker on the cam towers? Serviceable Loctite or the stronger one? Thanks

Fingers crossed. You have those P79s decked .030 so maybe, hopefully, for a change something might be easy. .220 - .030 =.190

I'm almost certain mine will need to be .175" after reading a couple of threads were the same cam was used. You're progress "updates" are going to get me started on mine very soon, I hope. The pictures are fantastic.

Looks great. Nice detail touch. What would you say the lash pads are in inches I guess, .150s, .175s, .190s? I'm doing this soon and my cam kit came with .190s. I'm worried how much I'll have to shave off for my .490 reground cam from Schneider. Thanks, Cliff.

Isn't there a stopper on the clutch peddle or one of the peddles? Was it in the cabin?

You're going to run into the newer vs. older style cylinders. The newer style is way cheaper but the hardline port is sitting in a different location. I had to bend mine to get them to work on my '72. Not a big deal but a deal.

They have a way of sneaking up on you. At least that's what I tell everyone.

I ran the factory design for years. After I rebuilt the motor I read up on what I could delete to simplify the engine bay's looks. It'll run fine in my opinion with the coolant flowing. I eliminated potential hose failure is all. Nothing to do with performance. Hopefully you'll have it on the road soon.