siteunseen

Google "quick and dirty su tuning classiczcars.com" Print it and don't throw it away.

That's what I'm saying, less words though. I go to scrap yards with worn out restaurant equipment. If a magnet sticks it's priced out as steel.

Motorhead? RIP Lemmy.

Yes, you should disable one carb at a time and adjust them. My favorite is Philip's "equally s h i t t y"

When your "honey" sees the final paint bill that list will start a new. Car looks great, can't wait to see the finished product. Cliff

I think you'll be happy with the results. EuroDat is more than helpful from beginning to end. 5 stars for Chaz, High quality guy.

I run 2.5" MSA premium on both my Zs. 240 does fine without drone. 280 I had to have a 20" resonator installed and it sounds great. Steve I can't find the video of barking the tires between 2nd and 3rd but that makes me want to work on my Z with every view. My favorite video!

Has anyone tried a magnet on these SS bumpers? I'd bet one would stick to the Vietnamese bumpers. I buy a lot of SS bolts and every one from Lowes/China will attract to a magnet. Fastenal is my go to now, a few extra miles but true stainless.

I used the original brackets on the 240, cleaned and painted most likely.?. Eurodat's for the 280. Cliff

Probably the same. Mine from futofab were made in Vietnam, at least that's what the boxes said. They've held up surprisingly well without any rust on the underside in the humid climate down here. I really like mine.

How old is the distributor cap and rotor button? Could be jumping fire. Do you have the OE points distributor, if so the points may need adjusting or replacing. Maybe just a good tune up would fix your problem. Good luck.

Try zcardepot.com

Easy peasey when you're bored and it's cold out. It runs so good and such fun with the E88 I've never gotten around to putting the bigger valve E31 that I did all this for.

Those look great! @Bruce Palmer has been very helpful to me, they know what's going on.

I used a simpleton way to test. Put the head on a bare block and dropped the valve's. If they didn't fall though I'd remove a little more until they dropped free from the head to the bottom of the bore. I held each valve up with clothes pins.

Granddad always wins.

Score on the brake parts! Those hen's pecker lips leave a terrible rash.

You have funky fuel down there from what I've read. Those plugs looked lean the last time you posted. Now you say they are sooted up? Confused once again. But hey, I'm not confused something'z wrong.

You need a hotter plug or tweaking on that petroni Damn it man I can't do $^!# now with my phone. 8^(

I put the front and back like the pre '72s SUs Just like he OP had a Porsche mechanic do to his. He has no longer or shorter float arms anymore. Both are they same length as per his past post. Best thing I've done to my SUs. In my opinion. Have you set them equally shitty by disabling the fronts and the rears?

2nd that. It's easy with a die grinder and sanding flapper wheel. I put my head on the block, chucked the intake valves onto my drill and eased them down into the bores. That scratched enough to know how far I had to grind back. Sorry I don't know the size to tell you for setting N42 on a 1mm over 2.4 block. You might find out reading a bunch of bulls**t but I'd feel better doing your set up "hands on". Not going by internet "alternative facts".

Found some bad... https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30151-pierrez-no-more/

I do not run a heat riser hose on the air box. I agree with Dennis. Heat in the engine bay has no effect on your plugs. I'm thinking with the gasoline you have in Panama you need to figure out a hotter plug and gap, possibly?

Would that do away with the rear end "wash out" I get sometimes in curves when not accelerating? Thanks.

Looks like they are around $300 used and up to $800 new after a google search. Good luck with your sale.