Captain Obvious

It looks great, and again... Thanks so much! As for the revision indicator, I think you misunderstood what I was suggesting. I was not suggesting a list of the changes that have occurred since inception. I was simply suggesting some indicator on the page as to what it's current revision is. Could be something as simple as "Revision H - Created 9/25/2012" in the legend area somewhere. Just so you can tell by looking at the picture itself when it was created or last modified. Just a time or date stamp, not history. Haha! I'd be happy to do what I can.

And... I just checked this, and the private messenger is correct. The original diagram from the 77 FSM has the magnet clutch connected to the blue wire and the BCDD cut connected to the white/black. It looks like a simple matter of mislabeled solenoids, because also in the original FSM, the A/C clutch is above the BCDD, and the BCDD is above the thermal transmitter. On your doc, the BCDD is above the A/C clutch. If you leave all the wiring alone and simply swap the labels between the BCDD and A/C clutch, everything will be correct.

There's no way I would ever blast a condesor with anything. Lightly or not. I'm no A/C expert, but since you didn't get any other responses...

Wayne, Thanks for the effort! Before this thing makes it to far though, there's something that doesn't look right to me. Seems the font style or weighting has changed between this version and your previous version. For example, take a look at the combination switch matrix and compare that area to the previous version. (Not E's version... that one has a different problem.) Your original one looks great, but the newest version has a font type that is so bold that it blurs one character into another. It's too bold, if that makes sense. There's a possibility that this is a user specific problem to me, so if it looks fine on your screen, then let me know and I'll send you a screen capture of what I'm talking about. Also, is there any reference on the document itself that indicates the change in revision? If not, I would recommend that. Doesn't have to be much, but something on the doc and not simply in the file name? Is that possible? Thanks again for all your help with this!!

Nobody? I'm the only one who has ever had such problem??? On a related note... I've got aluminum wheel cylinders. Does everyone else have the same, or are they steel?

Excellent. That's an even better solution! An HVAC guy with small hands. Another crisis averted!

Blue, Thanks for the help. I'm familiar with both styles of cylinders and what I'm working on are the 77-78 style with the two opposed pistons. I had the earlier single piston floating cylinder style in my 74. In the pic, you can only see one of the pistons, but I assure you... I've got two pistons and two seals per corner. The rebuilds I bought were Wagner 96618. I also got a box of parts from my previous owner that included some NOS brake parts, and in there were another set of Wagner kits (looked older than the ones I bought), and the Tru-Torque kits. I think I've got at least five rebuild kits, some unopened NOS still in sealed packaging and they are all the same... And none of them are correct for my cylinders. And like I mentioned above, I dismantled and stored a set of 77-78 cylinders from a parts car a while ago, and when things started getting confusing, I pulled that box off the shelf to see if it could add any info. The result is that the pair of cylinders in that box were identical to the ones on my car, including the pistons and seals with the larger hole in the center. Looking at the pics at Rock Auto, all the rebuilds they have appear to be the small hole style. Something seemingly this simple, and it's just not making sense?

One of the rear wheel cylinders on my 77 280 was leaking a little so I bought rebuild kits for both sides. I've got kits from both Wagner and Tru-Torque, and the basic P/N is 96618. Pulled the pistons out of my wheel cylinder and pried off the old seals. Then I noticed that the hole in the center of the old seal is much larger than the hole in the new one and it would be an enormous stretch to fit one of the new ones onto the piston. Also, the new seal is thicker and doesn't fit the groove in the piston. I've got a set of old cylinders from a parts car and the pistons and seals in them are the same as what's in my car. In other words, I have the correct cylinders and pistons on my car. I didn't try real hard to stretch that new seal onto my piston, but I don't think it's going to work. Did they change the piston design somewhere along the line and I missed the memo? Did I somehow get the wrong rebuild kit, and if so, what's the correct one? Here's a pic showing the old and new Hard to tell in this pic, but the new seal is thicker than the old one: Here's one of the packages and you can see the other part numbers it's compatible with: What the heck???

I would be careful with the brake cleaner and the AAR... There's some wiring in there and I don't know how the insulation will like being soaked with the solvents. Use a little and quickly shake out the excess, but I wouldn't dunk it in a can of carb cleaner. I remember that cool pic you were talking about from Fastwoman... I did some digging and found it in the "Post pics of your engine bay" thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45781.html Even though the routing is a little different, the function is still textbook "78 style". AAR pickup is off the flex tube upstream of the dirty PCV overflow. I like it too!

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. So if you do end up pulling the dash... What year are you working with? I just pulled dashes out of both a 74 and a 77, and the 77 was easier. The 74 required disconnection of a bunch of electrical connectors at the steering column, and by the time 77 rolled along Datsun had gotten a little smarter and rerouted all those connections to the firewall. The only electrical connections you have to mess with in 77 are three large connectors all located at the junction box above the passengers right knee. Leave all the HVAC stuff in place. You don't have to mess with any of it to pull the dash. In fact, you can even leave the faceplate with the map light and fuel warning light in place. Leave the glove box in place as well. Don't forget to disconnect and reconnect the speedo cable. What else...? If your clock doesn't work, it's a lot easier to remove with the dash out of the car. If you find an evaporator core in the top of your HVAC system, then you used to have A/C.

Gotcha. Well my 77 still has all the original 77 routing, and I'm nipple-less, so I guess my car never got the treatment. I wonder if anyone ever came up with a way to plumb to the dirty side of the air cleaner without confusing the L-jet.

Here's a pic of the water control valves. The spring loaded over-engineered device on the right is controlled by the temp slider, and the flying saucer shaped diaphragm actuator on the left shuts off all the water when you turn the A/C on regardless of where the temp slider is positioned. I'm no expert on the HVAC system, but I'm still thinking that maybe you shouldn't have any vacuum stuff in there at all unless the car has A/C. Maybe your car had A/C at one time, but a previous owner removed some (but not all) of it? You've got the vacuum switching valves in the engine compartment Is the hose going to the diaphragm the one having troubles with?

Thanks for that info. So was there actually a recall for this? Was everything supposed to be updated to 78 specs?

280~Master, you are running the stock configuration for 76, which is the same as 77. Interesting to note that you have the unused nipple on the flex tube at the front of the throttle body. Seems your flex tube has been replaced at some point with a newer one. I wonder if maybe Nissan stopped making the original tube without the nipple, and just started supplying only the one with the nipple. They would only have to stock one part that way. Anyway, you've got the correct setup for 76, but you could re-route for 78 if you chose to. BTW - Nice tape on the AFM... Looks just like mine, except I'm rockin' green instead of red!

Yup. You got it. You are now using the "78 scheme". Your throttle body will still be a mess, but your AAR will thank you.

I will wear my new mini-mag-glass with care. Not sure what you consider "early" Z, but I've found a mistake on the factory diagrams for 74 (and maybe 73... don't remember) temp switch wiring. If you're doing anything with those docs, let me know and I'll provide details.

No apologies necessary! None!! This document is fantastic, and even counting the tail chasing this time, this document adds so much value that I'm way ahead of the game! I'm not aware of any other issues at this time. Thank you!! I applaud all the efforts, and I'm just glad I could help make an already fantastic document a tiny bit better.

I think I have retraced my steps on where I first found copies of the color wiring diagrams... I think I first heard about both 77 and 78 here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread44992.html But the 77 version appears to have originated earlier here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread13131.html So from the above two threads, it appears that wal280z did the 77 version back in 2004 and awolfe did the 78 version in early 2012.

I picked up this diagram some time ago but unfortunately I don't remember the thread that originally turned me on to it. I'm pretty sure that it was on this forum though. I believe (especially because of the ClassicZ mention in the legend area) that the owner of the document hung out here. I was hoping that he would pop up... As for the problem that I chased? It's in the fuse block: For comparison, here's a snip from the 77 FSM: Important to not also that the 78 color diagram is correct. It's just the 77 that has the problem.

Very common issue with our L-Jet systems. Search around here and other Z sites and you'll find lots of people with the same problem. Lots of band aid solutions too as well. As for whether it's rich or lean? The common belief is that it's running lean.

The vacuum control lines only exist on the cars with A/C. The non-A/C cars are completely cable actuated mechanical only. That's why I asked if the car had A/C or not. I'm not sure what lines he's talking about here. I'm not sure if he's talking about the vacuum control line to the ON-OFF A/C derived water ****, or is he mistaking the hard copper line to the temp control valve for a vacuum line? In any event, I'll jump to the end of the chase here and say that I've recently messed with my system, and it all depends on how small your hands are and how long you can work while laying on your back with your head up under the dash. I don't think there's any vacuum line that you cannot get to if your hands are small enough and you are flexible enough to deal with the contortions. However, I've decided that if I ever have to do major work to the heater system again, it would be easier to just pull the dash. It's just not that hard to pull it, and working on anything heater related after that is just so easy that it's not worth it (for me at least) to try to do anything significant with the dash in place. Here's my bottom line... If you've got one tube that is leaking and you want to address just that one, then maybe preform the contortions. But my guess is that if there's one that needs to be replaced, then there are probably several others that should be as well.

I picked up a color wiring diagram for 77 on the forum here somewhere... Is the owner of said document still around? I've found some mistakes. I just spent two hours chasing my tail and I want to prevent anyone else from doing the same!

Now that's something interesting that I never played with... Who knew? (Probaby everyone but me)

Bruce, Let me see if I can help. What's going on here is that he fills the dampers up to (and not above) the fill-to line scribed into the stalk, drives around for just a couple hundred miles and then checks the levels again only to find that the level has dropped significantly below the fill-to line. He has stated that he is not overfilling the tubes to capacity and then displacing fluid up and over the top when he puts the stalks in. What makes the situation interesting enough to warrant two pages of forum is that he is not overfilling the dampers and then wondering where the oil went... He's filling them to the correct level and then wondering where the oil went.

Are you talking about the vacuum control lines (which only exist on the cars with air conditioning), or are you talking about the hard copper line that comes out of the top of the water control valve? (Or something else completely?)