Captain Obvious

Eastern Beaver (and no, it's not what you think). They are the only small onesie/twosie order friendly source I've found for the original Yazaki connectors used on the Zs. They don't have them all, but they do seem to have some of them. Here's their main connector page: Connectors And they've got one for sheaths: Sheaths If you're going to place an order with them, send me a PM because I might want to piggyback with you. Help you make minimum and split the shipping from overseas?

Thanks, but I don't think so. That stuff is mostly on the interior above the fusebox and I'm out in the engine compartment. Here's some sketches from the 77 FSM that seem to corroborate that the solo relay attached to the bracket in my pics above is for the air conditioning compressor. And it also appears that one of the relays to be mounted on the front side is for a seat belt interlock on the auto trans cars (#4 in the diagram). But what's got me is that I've got room and mounting holes for TWO relays on that front side, and I have absolutely no idea what the other one would be for: Here's another sketch from the FSM that shows a little more detail about the seat belt interlock relay.

This is a pic of the relay bracket from a 77 Z. There are mounting holes for relays that my car does not have. Does anyone know what the relays are that screw to this side? What are the functions of the two relays that screw to those four mounting holes on the side that faces forward toward the headlights: And for posterity, here are the other three sides. This is the side that faces the engine. The four screws attach the two fusible link blocks: Here's the side that faces the battery. The relay in the pic (I believe) is for the air conditioning compressor: And here's the side where the voltage regulator would mount:

[joke]Maybe he means you plug it in and then play with it for months trying to get the tuning right.[/joke] :paranoid:

I'm assuming they were licensed to be an authorized rebuilder of such things and were given enough info from Hitachi or Bosch to be able to test the module as a black box. Attach this cable and hit the "test" button. Probably runs through different simulated temperature, RPM, and air flow rates and then measures the pulse width output accordingly. As for the solder touch up, it doesn't seem to me that it would be that difficult to re-wave an already done board. Pretty much all you need to know is the outside dimensions of the board so you have locations to attach it to the fixture, right? Of course, I've got no idea if they are actually doing such a thing, but it doesn't sound that unfathomable. And, yes, I have verified (in my very limited experience of maybe three ECU's) that there are no electrolytics. Wait a minute... Are you talking about the module, or their owners?

That's awesome. Probably terrifying from the driver's seat, but awesome!

It's just boiler plate marketing. I wouldn't get my hopes up about anything specific.

Yeah, that's the guy! So he does architecture too, huh?

Heh! You're old. Where oh where are you tonight? Why did you leave me here all alone? And sorry... Can't help you with your quest. Thankfully I never needed to look for a replacement.

And here's why it needs to be replaced:

Jay, That lower bearing is definitely different than the later racks then. Both the bearings on mine were balls and they were bot the same. I'm with you... If you don't have a confirmed correct replacement for that bronze bearing in hand, I wouldn't mess with it. As for adding pics of the older rack style to that rebuild thread, I think that's a great idea. Would add to the resource. CanTechZ, That drawing is fine. Drawn by esteemed draftsman M.C. Eschersan.

Nice work on the engine. Any idea what happened to cause the valve to piston collision? Also, is everything else in your shop a Honda product? They let you play in their reindeer games? :laugh:

Excellent! Cheap easy fix. SteveJ nailed it!

I took a later 280 style rack apart in my rebuild thread and it's clearly different in a bunch of ways. One thing that was definitely different was that the pinion gear did not use standard ball bearings in the later racks. And there were two ball bearings, one on each end of the pinion gear shaft. And you've got just one ball bearing at the top of the pinion? What's at the lower end supporting the "down inside" tip of the pinion gear shaft? Is there a bronze bushing down in there or do they just run the pinion shaft right on the rack casting?

Congrats on getting your inspection! Older splined style column complete assy: Exploded: And here's the internal splines discussed above:

Haha!!

Wow. I assumed that it slipped out of position some in order to get deformed that bad. I'm not sure how that can even happen! :eek: Good luck with the reconstruction.

That key is hammered! Did that just happen or did it come out that way? And too bad about the pulley crack. A buddy of mine just did that to his because his key did the same thing your did and slipped out of position as he pressed the pulley on. His pulley is a goner. On the good side... I think you have conclusively figured out why your front seal was leaking so bad!

Cool! I thought I remembered people having a hard time sourcing the U-joints. Glad to hear there's a source available!

Sounds like the spray bar had been holding on by a thread and it looks like that rearmost cam lobe may have been running somewhat dry for a while because of that. Is it OK? [vader]Do not underestimate the power of the flat tops.[/vader]

OK, I'll admit it... ^^ That made me chuckle.

Yeah, searching out where play like that is 1000 times easier with someone else inside the car rocking the steering wheel back and forth. It also helps to keep the tires on the ground so they don't move as much. I found that if the tires are locked in place by friction with the floor, it helps isolate the issue. You gotta be able to beg or borrow someone for fifteen minutes to sit in your driver's seat and rock the wheel. I'm still hoping for something not inside the rack itself. Inner tie rod ends or steering coupler would be easier to find than a whole rack. U-joints from what I've heard would be no treat to find though... Let's hope that's not it either. Here's a pic of one of Mike's new inner tie rod ends from that other thread: [ATTACH=CONFIG]69927[/ATTACH] Looks very different than stock, but it's under the bootie, so who cares? Good luck!!

Woof. So the Nissan filters aren't immune either? Wait... Is that a cupcake?

First thing... When you say you put on new tie rod ends, are you talking about outers, inners, or both? Because if you didn't replace the inners, I would look at them first. If you already did that and there truly is play inside the rack itself, I don't believe there are any easy fixes. There are only two moving parts inside the rack, and that's the rack gear and the pinon gear (and it's bearings). So what could be the problem? Rack gear worn. Pinion gear worn. Worn bronze bushings on the ends of the rack housing. Rack rod itself worn where it rides through those bronze bushings. I'm hoping it's inner tie rod ends and not with the rack "proper" at all. Lots of pics and info in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/51640-steering-rack-disassembly-refurb.html I'm sure there are subtle differences between the 240 and 280 rack assy's but I suspect their similar enough that there might be useful info there even though it was for a 280.