Stanley

Seems like you could also fiberglass the underside of the dash. Get a roll of 2" fiberglass tape and glass a bunch of long band-aids in both directions. Can't be seen so no need to sand it, and none of the PITA of applying FG cloth over a shape with compound curves. Maybe that would prevent or minimize future cracks.

That sounds better, thank you. When I was ten or eleven years old I was good at electric and electronic stuff - even built a couple of radios. What happened ?

So you're just keeping the stock electric fuel pump wiring setup? And there's no easy way to use the stock electric pump wiring and internally regulated alternator on a '73 ? I had planned on doing the internally regulated alternator in the future, and keeping the stock electric pump. The pump would be unplugged from the wiring (since it's out of the loop now and my gauge shows the mechanical pump is providing plenty of fuel pressure), but could be quickly hooked up in case the mechanical pump ever craps out on the road. If there's a way, the specific details would be helpful for 73 Z owners, since not everybody is good at electrical. Otherwise I guess keeping everything stock is ok. One question - any photo of that wiring harness on the 73's that you can disconnect to cut power to the electric pump? That might be easier than crawling under the car. Have an old engine manual but it's for 72's.

OK, question for the race mechanics. Not that I race, but this is the South Bay, after all. With the Y70 head it has great mid-range torque, not much top end. I can see how a high-revving race car might need to mod the needles for top end but I found out at the drag strip that shifting later just gave me a slower ET. Would it do me any good? Know a mechanic with tons of Z racing experience, maybe I should keep my mouth shut and just let him drive and mess with it?

Didn't measure them. The old ones said N58 on the shoulder. The new ones look thinner, got them from MSA Motorsport! S.U. Carburetor Jet Needle, 70-71 240Z (N27) - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts They're not marked but they're supposed to be N27's. N27's are stock for 70-71 cars, and N58's are stock for 72 cars with AT. My car's a 73 AT so it would have had the flat-tops, but the PO put 3-screw round tops. The new nozzles were 70-71 cause that's what MSA told me I needed with the N27's. Maybe the worn nozzles were causing that rich-lean condition that's been posted about on the site. Maybe the gas doesn't atomize well when the nozzles are worn. Anyway it's nice to have an extra 400-500 rpm before I need to shift. I was winding it out today on the back street - couldn't make it backfire. And it's finally idles ok. ZTherapy has more selection of needles. I have a book about SU's and needles but it's over my head. I'll leave any needle mods to someone who actually knows what they're doing.

Figured my car was running crappy because it was tuned to lean (previously too rich). Some backfires, overrunning, etc. And the idle was always bad - that is it would idle for about 5 or 10 seconds and then it would miss - kind of a hiccup. Also I was getting some popping sometimes through the carbs, or a miss, at 4000 to 4700 rpm, And worst, it was kind of crapping out at 4700, not really making any more torque. It had N58 needles and worn slightly oval nozzles. Put in N27's. Just learning the SU's so it was a real surprise that putting some different needles and new nozzles would fix all that.

Cleaned the K&N's, they were dirty maybe from the backfires or it's just been a while. Pulled off the domes and sprayed everything with carb cleaner. Took out the old N58's and put in some N27's. The N27's look a little thinner. Put a new nozzle on the front one, ran out of daylight so put the other new nozzle tomorrow. Only glitch was one of the old needles wouldn't come out easy. Put some scotch tape on it before using the pliers but scratched it near the base anyway. Then I read the manual - says you're supposed to turn and pull at the same time - when I did that it came right out. Heard the N58 needles are no good so no big deal I guess. Guess I'll find out tomorrow if it makes a difference.

This is encouraging to me right now. The Datsun's ok but my old truck is a rust bucket with too good of a motor to get rid of. Wish I had a place to work and the welding skill to do it like that. But I don't so I'm stuck with phosphoric acid and fiberglass. Spent most of today fishing out chunks of rust with a magnet on a piece of wire.

Plugs can foul up fast if it's running too rich, especially in stop and go driving. After a highway run maybe some of the gunk burns off so it runs better. Nice thing about a Z (as opposed to the new cars) is it only takes a few minutes to check. If they're sooty looking you can give each plug tip about 10 seconds brushing with a small wire brush and see if it helps. Worked for me a few times. Also, don't understand the physics behind it, but my Chevy truck started popping through the exhaust when it got a vacuum leak. Vac hose only leaks on the side you can't see.

Last year after setting the carbs too rich and fouling the plugs, I set them up too lean. Ran crappy and I was afraid to get on it because it might damage the top end, but the mileage was great. Didn't calculate it but wouldn't be surprised if it was about 40 mpg.

PierreZ is in Gardena on Crenshaw North of Manhattan Beach Blvd. Heard they got one of their Z's up to 160 mph at El Mirage back in the day.

I was thinking the same thing. Maybe I could install a kitchen in my car. The main stove could be in the hatch area, maybe a small oven would fit in the glovebox. And every car needs a grill. Not sure where to install the freezer and fridge. It already has a fan. And I keep a fork in that space behind the ash tray.

I think Black Dragon has 3 grades, maybe the cheapie is OK for indoors but they fall apart fast outside. For outdoors I'd get the top grade one, lasts a year or two longer, fits nice. Mine is several years old and still looks good, should make it through at least one more winter. Doesn't say BRE though.

Wasn't really paying attention but recall hearing an announcement that a Canadian from Saskatoon won the "Longest distance driven" award.

Got to watch out for curbs with the spook. Carbon fiber is tough, but concrete always wins.

If you don't have a turbo, maybe swap in turbo motor with a 5 speed from a 82 ZX? That would still be more or less original. Give it a good valve job and exhaust system and it might be fast enough. If not, maybe stay with the ZX series and swap in a 3.0 liter V6 Twin Turbo from 300zx? That might be a lot more work - but it would be a fast car. Here's a link for ZX's:Nissan 300ZX - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Checked it out Saturday. Great car show. No Z432's this time but lots of Datsun's. A bunch of Z's, roadsters, 510's, 510 wagons, and trucks including a totally unrestored beat up old truck with a Nissan twin cam swapped in. Saw a bad Celica with a big belt driven blower on the Toyota engine. Not as many Skylines this year, maybe more next time. A trio of Honda 600's - one showroom stock resto 600- you could almost get the new car smell. Had the dealer price sticker on there too, about $1300 new. Saw a Honda Monkey scooter, too. My cam crapped out - after one shot my 8 gig chip was filled up so no photos this time, seemed to enjoy it just as much though. My favorite car this time was a Mazda. Yeah, I know. But it was a '67 Cosmo, supposedly one of three ever in the US. Beautiful little car, another showroom stocker. Never saw one before, even in a magazine. Only 12 months til next year.

Got the BD set first. None of the connectors fit my 73, plus it looks a bit mickey mouse. So I got Dave's set from MSA - no problems.

Or maybe make an AC system from much newer junkyard components that won't take up all the footroom on the passenger side? I have one but it looks horrible with all the broken plastic. Glad as hell it's out of there. Anybody want to trade me a radio knob for it?

I might have some in the future - don't know when so it's not much help. My aluminum 3-row has AN fittings welded on for the trans lines, thinking of going with the steel braided hydraulic hose (with the cloth braided cover) from the trans to the radiator to eliminate leaks. Got some other projects first, though.

Leave it in 2nd.

Might want to put a filter in line where the electric Fuel pump was. Yesterday took out the clear filter I had there, put a metal WIX can with 5/16 barbs, also put a USCG rated marine 5/16 fuel line from the filter to the hard line at the frame. It's lined so the ethanol crap can't touch the rubber, and has a 2 1/2 minute burn rating, 8 bucks a foot but you only need a foot.

Hell yes they're worth it IMHO. I'm running these with my SU's. Motorsport! Air Horn, 70-72 240Z S.U. Carburetors - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts They fit perfect in the K&N's. I noticed an improvement throughout my rpm range and don't think I imagined it. Had them before my first dyno run though. They're worth it just for the sound they make when you're revving it with the hood up. Oh yeah, certain race mechanics I know object to calling them air horns - they prefer the term velocity stacks.

Uncertainly not.

Not sure but I think my problem with disappearing oil was partly due to pushing the plunger down and pulling it up too fast - makes the oil slosh out. I think you're supposed to let the plunger sink on it's own, and lift it out super slow. In my case the disappearing oil syndrome seems to have more or less gone away on it's own, which makes me suspect my original observation. Still, it's a fact that you need to top off the oil from time to time. There's the Heisenburg (spelling?) theory about that, measurement affecting item being measured. Maybe it applies to SU carbs.