Patcon

On a separate note. I need some pointers on the rear hatch glass. We have a new rear window seal from Baz at Datsport in Australia. I need to get the trim off the old rubber seal. Then I need polish the glass and reassemble. Questions: Do I install the trim first like on a Z? Do I use a sealant under the weatherstrip? Do I use a string like on a Z? This is the trim. It snaps onto the seal somehow...

So we spent the last few weeks working on the hatch. It turns out it has been hit hard at some point. Right in the license plate. Some one did a fair job of reshaping it but it still needed work. We worked on it for a couple of weeks. I looked some at replacements but they were really expensive for some thing in much worse shape. It is really hard to get the crease lines right when you have no metal to guide you. I shot color on the inside a week or so ago. Color on the outside on Thursday and clearcoat on Friday Still getting tons of trash in my clear coat. I think I am going to redesign the booth to try to eliminate some of that. We cut and buffed today. Sanding on clear coat is down right spooky. I hate it... This is wet sanded 1200, then 2000 grit. Used a cutting compound then a polish at about 1500 rpm's This is where we ended up. 99% of the trash is gone. It's looks good unless you get really close and at the right angle All of the "orange peel" is gone. I didn't have much to begin with, which helped Buffed all the hardware and he reassembled the hatch. I had plated all the latch hardware over the last few weeks We will have to source new license plate lights because one of these is badly dented. I will also need to source the exterior hatch vent pieces...

Anyone?

The front is likely cracked from the rear being broken. The flexing broke the front right around the washer. The back looks broken from heavy people dropping into the seat repeatedly.

wd40 doesn't work as good as "Kroil" or "PB blaster". An impact screw driver would be my tool of choice. After that I switch to cutting tools and taps. They can be very hard to get out. The nuts on the bottom are welded to the cowl...

We have had the clutch issues with my wife's 350z. I will have to look into RJM Performance The clutch issues are even worse on the internal slave system cars

$11k! That's a lot of money for a rusty project!!!

I am gonna have to get busy to keep up

Is this the case with Poly bushings? He said he went Poly in the first post...

Beautiful as always!

Now that's a great Christmas present!

A very doable car. The floor boards are toast, but in my opinion the hardest part to fix on the whole car is that bad dent to the left of the rear hatch. The metal there is paper thin and extremely hard to weld or hammer on...

Those bubbles in the paint mean it's not rust free!!!!!

It really isn't that hard to remove the rear harness and reinstall it. Use some stiff wire to help feed the harness back in. I would never leave the harness in for media blasting . They will destroy the harness...

That would be interesting to know! @Mike

@JLPurcell

I think you can actually work around all of that. Not easy but doable...

True. I watched one show where they were painting a hot rod. They drove it onto a piece of plastic. Then pulled that up all the way around and taped it to the inside of the wheel wells and frame all the way around. Paint on the car and no where else

Why can't you register it in another state? what prevents you from doing that?

Why are you going back to the 4 speed? Why would you go back to an L24 unless it's the original block? Most people would consider this as a downgrade unless you are going for a purist restoration.

I was just thinking about this the other night and I think I will mount the tank up first. Much easier and I figure I will have tent the underside of the car anyway to protect from over spray and trash

Thanks. I will work on it...

They're slowing them down to "encourage" you to upgrade...

So they don't come with a frame? Do you have to supply one or do you mate them up after they ship you a dash?

WWWWHHHATTTTT?