Patcon

Ordered. It's funny, I sent that vendor an email yesterday. He is in Canton, GA and was like 4 or 5 pages back in a Google search

DUDE!!! That Mustang diaphragm looks really promising. The same dots around the perimeter and everything. That would be a home run if it fit! Mustang parts aren't going anywhere. I'll order one. I am ok with the risk...

So you need a 240z strut. I don't think I have one...

I would like to see some of that end up in retail too

What year car? It always helps if that is in your signature line

any body good with Italian? They have parts https://www.emmetec.com/en-us/cat/servofreno-03-diaframmi/500?p=0

Here is the 7" diaphragm Hoover what can you find???? @240260280

That wouldn't surprise me. What we really need to find is the guy that sells parts to these rebuilders. They probably can supply a diaphragm that would work. I'm willing to pursue all options

Yes you are probably correct on all points. I don't believe there is that much liability risk. If you make them under an LLC company your liability is very limited, and even if it fails you still have brakes. I suspect there are a number of z's out there with bad boosters that get driven and don't even realize it. I have considered making them myself but I really don't want to get another project added to the pile. I found some diaphragms a couple of years ago but I would have had to order like 1000 and that was a "non-starter". So we'll see what I can come up with. You would think a rebuilder would be fine with throwing some parts in a box and adding $50 on top and shipping it. That's probably better margins then they actually make on a rebuild in the shop, and easier too.

Yes, I read every entry. Fascinating, but above my paygrade

I have seen some of that. I have also attempted that kind of repair with mixed results. We really just need to find a source for the diaphragms then we could repair our own

Nope, I doubt it. If you find the strut is damage, you would be better of to replace it. I think it would be hard to straighten with out damaging the ID of the strut tube. That would make strut removal or installation impossible.

On the spindle pins, I found that the locking pins had flared mine from previous installations. I took a flat file to remove the flaring until I could slide them into parts by hand. Lots of antiseize and reassembled

I tried to listen for air leakage but the Mity Vac makes too much noise and pulls air too slowly. I had planned on posting up a rebuild source if I can come up with something

Well evidently, I have 5 used boosters and none of them will hold a vacuum. I even blanked off the MC side of the most promising looking one and nothing, I spent about an hour emailing companies all over the US to see if I can find someone that can rebuild the little booster without forfeiting a valuable body part...we'll see.

$2200, good luck! My rusty project in the yard keeps getting more valuable every day! ?

I'll say a little prayer for Monday!

True! Lot's of possibilities at that level...

The problem with grinding them down to me, would be, you remove all the zinc from the end of the bolt and they're going to rust badly there so close to the ground and potential water. I am not sure grinding them would affect clamping forces at all, but I am also not an ME...

Congrats to you!!! I feel for your dad. Good luck...

I looked at some other MR2's for sale and it must be the body kit throwing me off. They can be had for decent money, interesting...

And the OEM bolt head is thicker. Would be interesting to mic from the bottom of the bolt head to the end of the threads on each one for reference

I liked the wheels too. I wondered if they were available separately. Too bad... I am not a fan of shaved drip rails, but I thought the center exhaust was really well executed. I wonder if that makes the potential for fumes better or worse?

Nice looking car. I don't think we got that model here. I have seen the older version, a couple of cars down but don't recall that newer version. Unless I missed them somewhere...

In the scenario in the diagram above, the cap at the radiator would be a cap with no disc or spring attached at the bottom. The overflow tank would then have a standard pressure radiator cap installed on it