Patcon

I found a new seal for the steering input shaft for the steering rack. It was the last one shown at Rockauto but should give you a good part number to locate one if needed So I was very fortunate to locate a source for the steering rack bushings. They came from a batch of bushings that had been previously fabbed up for the steering rack application. They looked great but lacked the groove that the stock bushing has. So I took a stab at that I mic'd them to make sure he groove was about the same depth as the original. The bushings are a press fit into the rack housing and then need final ID sizing to accept the rack bar. Once I had them shaped to my satisfaction, they gotten frozen over night Wiped the frost off and tapped them in with a bushing driver and a small hammer. They went in really easy Now it was time to size the ID. They actually got a little tighter after driving them in, so they would always needed sizing post placement. I bought a brake hone the other day. The one I bought will go down to like 3/4" dia so it is perfect for this situation. It took a lot more honing then I thought it would, but after a while I got the clearance right. I also polished the rack rod to smooth some spots where corrosion had started. I hope to paint the housing this coming weekend and get the rack going back together

Cool! Small world. I enjoy watching the metal work come along. The construction project is cool too, as that is what I do for a living

No problem

Glad your ok! Is one of those wiper motors I posted the right one? It yours for the cost of freight if you would like it?

The quarter was slicked out around the welds with some kind of metal, from the looks of it. Traditionally that would be old school lead, I wouldn't be surprised if it was tin. The work looks really good. Plastic fillers work fine if they are used properly. That means they need to be thin and properly applied. That also means you need to get a good metal man to remove the majority of the dents and waves, but those guys are getting rare. There are very few shops here that make all metal repairs and the ones that do are doing that work on high end cars because it's expensive work. Your cars repairs look exceptional

I did not see a frame rail for a 240z on zcardepot. The one I found for was for the Datsun 510. Also the man that owns baddog developed these parts on the race track. They are high quality heavy weight parts but they may require some professional installation

Are the grease caps supposed to have an "o" ring? I don't think I have ever seen that. Might help though...

Well maybe he will chime in. I hope he's doing well.

If I were going to really push a Z on the track. There are a number of places I would reinforce. I would probably seem weld all of the front rails, shock towers and connections to the firewall. I would also weld in Bad dogs sway bar plates and maybe the frame supports. All of which should be done before under coatings. Also some things would have to be removed beforehand or you will have a fire. Ask me how I know... A triangular front strut bar would also help keep the front from flexing

Paint looks great!!!

Very hard to patch in the front fenders. They are thin and oil can easily. If I were going to start on that dent. You need to work from the edges in. Also the wheel arch will need to be worked as you work on it. I think what I might do is fasten the fender to the car. Then put a come-a-long with a hook in to the wheel arch right at the dent. Put a little tension on it then start dolly work. When you get the dented arch worked out some, then work the front bulge in some. Repeat... Also I would expect to have to do some shrinking work on a dent that is that large

Has anybody heard from Rossiz? I hit him up in this thread. Just wanted to be sure he was ok. He never responded. His last post was Dec 2017

What is your body man using a filler? Is it lead or tin?

Good there is a source but cheaper through other sources. Ed @ Harmon Classic brakes will rebuild a booster for that amount

I like it. The paint looks good!

I have a tumbler. I have experimented with it in the past. I also have the same type media. I may have to try some of that again to see if I can get satisfactory results

How long did you let it tumble? How full did you fill it? When they came out were they basically polished looking?

I like the 280z in front of the Harden Foundation, but I think I like this second one better. Base clear isn't that hard and in some ways is more forgiving. It is easier to touch up mistakes or blend panels with BC/CC. I don't catalyze my base coat so it needs to be top coated in 24hrs and you can't sand it. If you were to catalyze it you could wait indefinitely to top coat it and I believe it would be sandable.

Zed, do you have a link to that thread?

So many color options. So few cars... I don't have a recommendation, but I was going to look at the p-sheet for whatever you pick. "reasonable cost" and automotive paint are mutually exclusive!

No not really. Most people will plate all the fasteners, carb parts, fuel rail and the under hood pieces. Make lots of notes on where the fasteners come from so they can end up back where they came from.

What single stage are you looking at? Yes, you do not want your finish coats to dry that fast. They won't level out and any over spray or misting won't melt back in

Basically every metal part on the car that was not painted body color, black or blue was finished some how, excluding aluminum pieces. Most were plated yellow and "yellow zinc" is used for that. I believe a couple of parts were plated black and some parts were plated shiny silver or "clear zinc" Even the parts inside the brake booster, the heater hardware, window regulators and latches were all plated yellow zinc. Most don't go to those extremes but I know a few that have...

Does the temperature gauge work? What did it read? Yes they can overheat quickly if there is a problem. Overheating these aluminum headed engines is a no-no.