Everything posted by Patcon
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Tempted on removing, cleaning and reinstalling hitachi original distributor on my 240z
This is very true in a broad sense, but it is easier for some people to get out of the hole than others
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Holy $^!# I bought a turd
I would blank off the brake booster port at the manifold until you get it running right. The booster might be blown and like ZedHead said unmetered air is bad. I wouldn't drive it that way but it will help you determine if the booster is good or not. If you hook the booster back up after getting it running good and the engines runs more poorly the booster is blown or the hose has a hole
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Tempted on removing, cleaning and reinstalling hitachi original distributor on my 240z
Yes, exactly!!
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I thought about doing that, but didn't really want to build up the door edge right there with filler. I was afraid it might chip in the future as the door jamb could easily get struck getting in and out of the car. I will probably cut it again tomorrow and at least tack it up. Might get it fully seamed tomorrow. I won't have double seams like I did today. I added slivers of metal in the other cut and that required double seams.
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Caswell Plating
I thought so too. My favorite part was that it required so little effort on my part. Set it and come back in an hour. I am trying to get as much of my plating this way as possible
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Holy $^!# I bought a turd
I believe the wire tied linkage is for a dashpot. It was wired up to prevent flopping and rattling. Probably not an issue for right now. I think the valve cover vent is tied back to the pcv valve, so shouldn't be unmetered...
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Worked on the quarter some more. Welded it up, then knocked it down some... Only to realize, I'm an idiot and I have to cut it again, because the door gap is uneven... Worked on the air dam up front and made some progress on that @grannyknot That was a good tip! Took one of the door handles apart. they have some sort of rivet in them. Ground it back and separated them Gonna look around and see if I can find a substitute (4.953 dia and roughly 25mm long). Might use a roll pin. Also I was looking at the door handles. There is a small rubber seal on both ends of the handles where they go into the doors. Are those seals available anywhere? How would you install them? Cut them or re-pin the door hinges?
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Holy $^!# I bought a turd
It almost looks like they were trying to go turbo. Float bowls linked, intakes linked, sealed intake runners...
- Sway bars
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240Z - All done and ready to...
I wasn't off by much...
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7" brake booster repair and restoration
Yeah, I need to do a pull on it, but since I actually had to tap it in to start, then staked it after that, I doubt it's coming back out I guess you can borrow it... connect in Atlanta...
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240Z - All done and ready to...
Looks fabulous. Looks more like 4,000 Ft...
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Sway bars
Thanks for that input. That is what I was thinking too.
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Need fan clutch
I think he was suggesting the early fan clutch is welded shut versus the later version which is bolted together
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7" brake booster repair and restoration
Well I worked on the booster some more today. I started by stripping the last remnants of paint from the booster shell. Some of it didn't want to come off in the blasting cabinet. Under the paint it looks like yellow zinc. You can see the yellow in a couple of the spots that were protected with paint. So did they plate the boosters first, then paint them. Otherwise, how did the studs get plated? I tried to remove a stud just to see if I could, but I think they are welded in some way even though I can't see where Stacked up the plunger parts Then clamped the plunger in to the cap. I actually had to tap the plunger into the cap with a hammer to get it to seat. Then clamped it in to the fixture. You can see the staking mark through the fixture hole Staked one side, then rotated 120 degrees and repeat. I staked it where it was originally staked. All done, ready for the booster I didn't use the hydraulic press to stake it. Instead I clamped it in the vise. That way I had a tactile way to determine how hard I was staking it
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Caswell Plating
So I got some post plating blistering after some of my last plating. It didn't show up for about a week. Some causes I found: Too much brightener Organics in the plating bath Bad part prep My bath had gotten kind of cloudy and I am sure I get a lot of "drag out" from my degreaser and pickle tank, so I decided to charcoal filter it. Seanc on the Caswell forum suggested a fridge filter hooked to the aquarium pump. Works great! Now the brass end is supposed to be installed in the reverse way. Shank in and threads out, but I tapped the end of the filter and left the shank out to attach to the hose. 45 minutes later Now the only downside is this will remove any brightener from the bath. Seanc said in some other posts on the Caswell forum that he doesn't even use brightener. That he gets better results with out it. So we will see how my next plating session goes and whether I can get shiny plate with out the brightener
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240Z - All done and ready to...
Is that your shop or someone elses?
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Need fan clutch
Also you might want to think about attending Zcon in Oct, at least for a couple of days. Lots of fun, lots of fabulous cars and a number of CZC's members will be there too.
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Need fan clutch
Have you approach any rebuilders on whether it is possible or not. If the factory welded it shut on assembly then re-welding it shut should be possible. I suspect that it is salvageable somehow. In any case don't dispose of it. Some one here might want to take a stab at fixing it. Can't make it any worse
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Need fan clutch
You might want to take your street address out of your signature location, for some privacy I wondered about the possibility or rebuilding it too
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280Z High Beam Switch Repair
Supply and demand. Some times you have to pay to play. There is no right or wrong in this equation. We don't have a right to own such fabulous cars or to keep them running. That is purely a personal responsibility. My 2 cents...
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Advice on this 1980 on CL
That's got potential. The body seems to be unmodified. Rust is the big enemy there. Check the rocker panels, qtrs, wheel wells, doglegs, floor boards, frame rails, rear hatch latch area above the tail lights and under the battery. Some areas are more serious than others. I would expect some rust but not too much...
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Advice on this 1980 on CL
Two of those cars have real promise The 79' was cheap but would need more pics and check for rust. The 82 ZXt looks like a lot of fun and looks pretty clean
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vin 181
I registered with BaT when it was still $800. Finished at $6,200 well outside of my reach, which is good. I didn't really need another project sitting around!
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Advice on this 1980 on CL
You're welcome. When the early cars started getting expensive that drove all the other cars up in price. I buy a good many cars off of online auctions and the pictures there are the same way. I always assume the car has twice as much wrong as you can see in the pictures. Sort of like the girl across the room, many of them look better at a distance too!