Patcon

I think the point he is trying to make is: ...not trusting parts that look suspect. If you're going to touch it, go ahead and make sure it's good. Of course the Datsun way for many people has been run until it breaks, then patch it. These have been cheap cars for many years. That has changed greatly recently. I tend to come down more on the side "if it ain't broke don't break it" I have limited funds to throw at projects. The exception being if I want it pretty, then by all means tear it apart and plate everything!

My question wasn't about sitting between the test, but whether the engine sat for a number of years before you got it. Some times the rings get stuck from sitting and can give low numbers like this. Doing a dry then a wet test can show this too.

I guess my hope for an NOS would be good fit to the chassis and very little filler. After that I don't know that anyone other than a really skilled body man could tell whether a panel was NOS or off a donor. As for cost, if I am building a $70k+ pristine low number car and a NOS quarter is what I need, then I pay-to-play. I could see paying 3K if it's something I really need. Like I said I can't see paying that over a good SouthWest donor. Of course I don't own any of the really special cars.

Also did this engine sit for an extended period of time. I don't recall if that has been mentioned or not. Those numbers aren't good. You need to double check those numbers and like Zed said make sure you do each cylinder exactly the same way. I don't really care about cold and warm. What I want to know is dry or wet. After you do the initial test squirt a little motor oil in each cylinder. If the numbers come up then it's a ring issue. If they don't its generally a head issue. I would also adjust the valves before I did another test

That one is beyond restoration. You can find some good used ones or buy the Asian reproductions. Repros are still better than shorted lights

Yes Mario I would use some galvanized steel in the thickness you need then prime or plate them before use

If you keep a fan running you should be fine. It doesn't stink after it's neutralized.

BTW don't use aluminum as spacers! The dissimilar metals causes other issues. I agree, your best bet is to make some. I like originality too, but sometimes it's not worth the effort. The older I get, enjoying the car on the road becomes the priority

I would think NOS quarters are worth North of $2000 each side and I could get a good rear clip for probably $1500, which gives you both sides. It seems sort of silly to try to get NOS unless you have the special car that needs them (ie #10, 12, 26 etc) since the rest of the car has 50 years of wear and tear and surface rust. A good clean rear clip would accomplish the same thing and reserve very special parts for very special cars. Now if you're doing a very special car, speak up, somebody might be willing to part with them if your project is more special than theirs.

Yes, they probably are, but most of the people that have them are holding them for a special project. Some of us hoard stuff like this. Very few of them will be willing to sell them. You might find a pair but if you do they will be exceptionally expensive. You could buy a whole rear clip for less, maybe half of what a NOS panels cost

This is also true. I would want to use something that's not going to rust. You may also find if you get the fender end of the door lined up with the fender, that the rear edge no longer lies flat. In that case I literally twist the door by hand until I can get it to lay flat. That is one of the nice things about thin doors. This work is easier with out the door latch installed. So you can get the door right without any pressure on it

This sounds like the stud welder I use. I did exactly that but the corners are so thin that the stud welder burns holes in them and if you get a stud welded on, the corner tears out because the metal gets thicker further from the corner. It can be a challenging area to get right. The best tool would be to make some long thin dollies to use from inside the quarter panel

We don't rely on locks around here. We rely on big dogs and noise makers. As a builder I realize locks only keep honest people honest

I agree 100% with this The shop looks great and the car is coming along really well. My first choice would be "Aircraft stripper" Harsh but really easy and doesn't remove any metal

@JLPurcell Didn't you make some shims at some point?

Good luck with that. I hope your wallet is prepared. Your best bet would be to find donor panels from the Southwest. There are some of those available

You can unplug any you want. Unplug them at the fenders and corners. Leave the column alone. Once they are unplugged and the lights will stay on then you know the issue is down stream. Add them back and see where the problem lies. Easy, peasy

this sounds interesting Edit: Have to keep it garaged? How do they verify the garaging?

Unplug all the running lights. Replace the fuse. With the lights on, see if the fuse will hold. If so it in one or more of the disconnected lights. Then plug in lights one at a time, waiting between each one. When you get to one that blows the fuse, repair / replace it and do the next one

44G's in a lap belt, hhhmmm? or better yet the steering wheel! "That's gonna leave a mark!"

Good progress

But man, he got his money's worth!!!

Not only is it a tough place to hammer back but the metal is incredibly thin at these corners because of the stamping process

The path of least resistance, no pun intended, is to get a pair of new marker lights. If you clean out the rust, it wont stay that way long with all the rain you get in Panama. The new ones will have intake zinc coatings on them to help them last.

That's too bad. Buyer beware...