Patcon

Sold for $11,250

I would be interested in contacts for Datsun guys who do it on the side. Maybe add it to my other thread

That seemed like a decent price to me...

Are you looking for Zinc plating or Chrome plating?

We made those out of heat shrink. So that's probably a pretty good match. I would be interested in the glovebox

That would be great! C

I would prefer a sanden

If there are sharp hot parts in the exhaust. They can set off unburnt fuel. You could experiment with a different muffler or try to eliminate the richness on decel

There is not much room on that side inside the dash to route the piping. The piping could be unhooked from the the defrost end. It could be crushed in the dash. Unhooked at the heater box end or have a hole. I'm going to guess it's unhooked on one end. Even crushed it should blow some air

You're very welcome!

An IR gun might help you locate where the warm hoses stop and the cold hoses start

I thought 76k was cheap for the car. Although, I hadn't noticed the Frenched headlight buckets. I think that really hurts the value

Metal shrinking is doable but it takes a lot of practice and the results can be challenging. One thing in your favor is the metal has a memory and wants to go back to the original shape. A paintless dent guy would be a great choice even if it needed painting after it was fixed. PDR guys understand how to push metal around Do you have any pictures of the dent?

I guess one question would be what is your budget?? Hard to find a ready to go car for 20k 40k gets you lots of choices!!! 15k could get you a nice foundation that needs finishing. 240z will bring the most money but a later car could be updated. The later cars also tend to be slightly safer. More metal, betrer horn pad, seatbelts, crash bars in the doors. My least favorite part of the 280, the front valance can be reworked to mimic the 240z

???

"T" bolt? I would probably make one out of the correct sized bolt

Yes, all much bigger ;)

I have bought many things from Vintage connections. No problems. Haven't dealt with the other company

Thanks for every bodies feedback. So I tested the body with a volt meter and the is continuity from the power in blade to the case. I was also very careful to keep the horn parts separate. I marked one body with 1 and one body with a 2 and kept the corresponding parts in separate numbered ziploks while the bodies went to plating

I can't get mine to work at any position of the screw. We tried a number of times and adjusted slowly but can get it to work

In the interim I'd be glad to have any without big rust holes in it

At what vin was the change over?

I might be interested in the jack if it's in great shape

Thanks Jim!!