Patcon

What was the cost?

Those dimensions are very different. If you forced it on, your car will be tweaked then. Your other option would be to cut it how you need to for it to fit and have somebody reweld it in the new configuration. That might be cheaper than sending it back and you won't have to worry about the holes in the firewall. By the way how did you pay for it? Credit card? You might have leverage that way if you dispute it.

I really don't like knurling. I had a head done many years ago and the guides were worn. Machinist suggested knurling as it was cheaper. With new valve stem seals it still had blow by because the knurling didn't hold up. Your head looks great by the way.

I suggested blocking off the booster several weeks ago. Don't know if that was ever done, as well as, eliminating other potential vacuum leak sources. More people on the forum will help you if you methodically answer individual questions and try what is suggested. If you don't help will dry up...

You need to know! It is hard to help someone from several thousand miles away. Even harder without all the facts.

The good news to prices going up is it makes it more practical to save cars that would have been scrapped before. Corvettes got to the place where even the ones in junk yards were being sold and restored. I hate to see any classic crushed

Was the diff clunk the worn u joint?

Sorry.. It's a secret

That was my point. Just trying to clarify.

I think I would give $100 for that, even if I had to buy flat tops. Go through it. I would probably disassemble it and check it all then buy what I needed.

8 AWG is heavier unless I am missing something.

I can't image you have a "generator" possibly an externally regulated alternator but not a generator...

Unless you run your car with a fuel gauge that is visible from the drivers seat then you don't know if you have a fuel pressure problem or not. I would think 3 psi would work in most situations beside "Wide Open Throttle". SU's don't like more than 3.5 PSI anyway. Fuel pressure is also not per carburetor but for the fuel rail as a whole. As an aside, it might be nice if you didn't start a ton of new threads just add a new reply or question to your existing related threads.

I agree some air in the filter is not a s sign of a bad pump.

Then work on the premise that you have a water problem until proven otherwise.

Thanks Careless

Let me know when you're ready for one. We can probably work something out. I have also found that the database is not always accurate but I guess you get what you pay for. I have found when looking for later model stuff if they show another part but not the one I want I can call and many times they have it, just not posted online. The trick is finding who has the car your looking for and then calling them to see if they have the parts. The other thing I do is when I call a yard and they don't have the part I want I ask them if they know who would. I keep doing this over and over. Eventually I end up finding what I want and many times those yards aren't even online.

I wonder what caused the damage. Can detonation cause that kind of damage? I wouldn't be so worried about the little marks, the big gouges with the sharp edges might glow and cause problems. Not sure about that.

On his 280z does the fuel get pumped back to the tank in a return line? I don't know the 280Z system. So if the pump picked up a big slug of water would it eventually get pushed out of the fuel rail and back to the tank? Then the car would fire up. I would run the tank down as low as possible then fill it up. If you run it down low the fuel doesn't just get diluted with new fuel 50%/50% like fueling at half a tank more like 90%/10% or more.

That's funny. I had a 50' Chevy that was the same Green and had about the same amount of rust. I used it to go to the dump. It only had three shocks and one was bailing wire and blew so much oil that a car following you thought you had released an oil slick. Passed the truck on, I hope it got finished.

I saw a similar green media on Summit Racings website. It was reasonably priced if I remember. I thought I would use your directions and try polishing some of my pre-plate items. So far I haven't had much success yet.

It looks to be working out for you. I am glad, was afraid I steered you wrong there for a while.

Eric, I may have one but I would have to look. If I have one, it may need rechroming...

Yes, that would be on the high end in the US.

I agree with FastWoman. How many tanks of fuel have you run through it? It may still be water and bad gas. Keep running fuel through it. Sites suggestion is also good if it keeps doing it. Verify your fuel pressure is consistent.