Patcon

It takes a long time to not feel tired after Covid. Which way are you cutting the walls? Cutting the corner brown in or cutting the siding color back against corner. I would typically paint the corners and then cut the siding color in. I find that easier

Love the seats! Love the console! And seat heaters?? More info please, maybe in the 510 section?

@SteveJ

I would think they would be worth more than $900. I would suspect more in the $2,000 range based on this https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=datsun+mikuni&_sacat=0&LH_Sold=1&LH_Complete=1&_sop=16

I would be interested C

What did you do for the muffler? How does the race header compare to Sean's other headers?

Depends on the RB. An RB26 was about 276BHp stock. They can make in the 400's. Supposedly about 500 HP things start to break internally

I tried to find current pricing. The sport design was about $97,000 The evolution was starting in the $232,000 range. I suspect those numbers have gone up recently. I'm not a huge fan of the carbon fiber exterior. I have thoughts like bonding strength. Fatigue over time and how does the unit work as a whole. Layup orientation and weave. Ease of repair. Etc. I get there is some weight savings but is seems like a little more horsepower would overcome the excess weight easier than reskinning the car. Cody wants to build a crazy S30 RB powered car. I would think an RB powered MZR would be a good option if you stayed with the all metal car. I know they are working on an RB car. There would be a cost premium but even DIY it wouldn't be a cheap build. The MZR might also retain value better because of the name recognition

Thanks for the tip. Just ordered some. It's amazing how expensive so many of these items have gotten

Valve adjustment would also be low hanging fruit

I doubt 20k would be enough

That's all great progress. The plating looks really good! In almost 40 years I don't think I've ever take the exhaust manifold/down pipe joint loose without breaking at least one of those studs.

Take a picture of what you really have. I have never seen one welded in place

I don't know. Maybe somebody with a more complete parts database will chime in. It would be nice to know but for now it appears to be an original harness in a car a month earlier than Lily. The brown z was my daily driver 30 years ago, so I should be able to get Lily going with the donations

Yes, it can probably be done from the top. Easier with two people though. The clutch isn't as sensitive to air bubbles as the brakes are. Get most of the air out. Make sure you have good clutch lever movement. Make sure it changes gears properly once it's running.

Fascinating, it looks like it's got a 9/70 manufacture date. The Exx50 makes me wonder if it was a small revision somehow?

So I need someone with the factory parts book to check something for me. I looked on car parts manual but they don't show a corresponding number for these dash harnesses. They are close to the early car dash numbers but not exactly the same. 24013-E4650 & 24013-4651

I think I am going to take the ignition switch and combo switch all together since I know where that ignition key is 🙂 I have a 5 speed that I took out of the brown Z that will go into Lily. Haven't really ever taken the time to ID it

I saw atleast one of those today. I will look tomorrow and check car parts manual. I was hoping the same thing based on the 140psi gauge. Although the cigarette lighter location makes me wonder. PS my daughter gets married next weekend in Ohio. I hope to have time to come visit shortly after that

So later dash in an early car? This is in the "Brown Z" Cody had suggested a great plan. Cannibalize the Brown Z for the dash harness I need and anything else so I can get Lily done for now. They are only a month apart. But I saw the dash and hazard label and then I started wondering what was what?

So I have a question. What year is this dash? And what year is this panel?

I like the spot weld cutters like this or this I do not like this style A little oil helps. Be careful with the bit corners, they are brittle and easily damaged. Constant pressure helps. The carbide or specialty coated ones last a lot longer. My tool of choice for spot welds is a die grinder with one of these That section of the frame is pretty stout. It's thicker than a lot of other areas of the car

I would drill out the spot welds if possible. I would think that would be the best method for the most invisible repair

Ideally, you would remove the whole tower and replace it. Or you could just move the center mount of the shock tower and patch in the metal around it to make it look right

It would be pretty easy to make those shock towers stock again. Provided you know how to MIG. Just make sure you get the front end on level and square. A frame rack would be best for that