Patcon

I was messing with the 73 we have and trying to get it running again with my son. The brake booster was out and disassembled we patched it and reassembled it. Tried to start the car but no spark. I believe I have fuel and I shot some ether to it so I don't think fueling is the main issue right now. Tried to ground a plug on the valve cover, no spark Tried to ground the coil lead, no spark Checked voltage at the coil, I have voltage at the coil but am not sure what I want exactly 12v on both sides of the coil I believe, 12v on one side of the ballast, lower on the other side Check continuity to ground from the spade on the outside of the dizzy, good Continuity back into the dizzy from the spade to the points, good Tried a coil from a different car, no joy The car did run but probably not for a year or so. One other thing was when my son set the battery in I set the terminals on it backwards because he had the battery turned wrong. Can y'all give me some systematic method to check the ignition system? I don't totally understand how the system is setup. Thanks

^^^^^ Yes what he said...

Rossiz is correct. Lots of light strikes, they will tend to put the metal back without additional stretching. The sanding is a great idea too. A small wooden block or a piece of the steel bar would make a good sanding block as opposed to a foam sanding block. The hard surface will help knock down high spots.

Is it me or the fan on backwards? In the last picture the fan would rotate so the blade cuts into the air and pulls it in, right? So the curvature is normally on the inside like a boat propeller. Maybe the fan has more offset if you turn it over? Just guessing though...

Could he have damaged the circuit or coil with the tach out?

You probably have some kind of battery drain. An easy way to narrow it down is the put a test light between the battery terminal and the battery posts. It should light up some. Start pulling fuses until it goes out. That is the circuit with the drain. As for a new harness, that depends on how bad the existing one is and how comfortable you feel about patching it in.

No! No they don't... The first time I took calculus I withdrew with like a 25 out of 100. Got through with a "D" the next time. Done! I love math but calculus is not math. I don't know what it is...

I thought that might be the case

Thanks Matt, the BC site doesn't show them. I added the link after spending some time shopping.

Absolutely. Looks like a good starting point. Keep us in the loop on what you build and the results.

Great pictures. That really helps me understand the process and what the results should look like.

Glad you got it.

It is the same car as the VIN's match. I believe the ebay ad said sold but who knows...

If I found the right website then I didn't see them listed in the Nissan section. Am I missing them somewhere?

I know in some circles the factory overspray and issues are important. Corvettes for instance are expected to have the factory exact overspray, stampings and marks. I don't care for it personally but I know the show judges look for it.

That is absolutely fabulous! I tend to agree the car probably got too hot to handle. Love it C

Pretty good video, but some of the info was off. Charles

Another area that I don't see mentioned is the carb inlet screens and the float bowls. If the screens are badly clogged they may not pass enough fuel and the bowls get low on fuel causing bucking or debris in the bowls that moves around and clogs up the holes. Another long shot is a piece of bad fuel line, internally collapsed, possible the lines under the carbs (this is not regular old fuel line) C

That's funny, I don't care who you are... C

What makes you think the vapor tank you took out was not original? C

Matt, I had the fiberglass air dam on an earlier Z. It doesn't take curbs or parking strips well and a chicken in the road at 55 mph made a mess out of it. Charles

I agree that spark plugs wont normally cause a no start condition, with the exception of putting in a sparkplug that is way too long...does the engine spin at all when you try to start it? If not take all the spark plugs out and see if it will spin without the compression. Make the spark and fuel safe for this. C

I have a xenon air dam I will be using. I had figured I would have to reinforce it too, as they flex a lot a speed. I had thought I would fab a bar all the way across the bottom on the inside lip and attach that to bracket in a similar way to what you did. That way the bottom edge couldn't flex and would hold its shape. All your work looks great. You are getting close Charles

That's great! That site is great for finding parts, especially later model stuff. I use it a lot to rebuild the cars I am working on. C

You are very welcome... C