Patcon

^^^ Ditto, What Mark said...

Congrats. The car looks good. PM me if you need anything. I am local and have lots of sources

Like that! triples...

Cliff, Remember it doesn't get any more southern than South Carolina. The buckle on the belt and the first to start a fight...

the_tool_man I live in Spartanburg, I can probably help you if you need advise or parts. 280's are not my forte but I would be glad to help if you need it... Charles

Remove the existing factory deadener. I would treat the shell with Ospho or some other phosphating chemical, then epoxy prime. Kurby is right most systems don't approve of mixing and matching brand names. although I have done it without problems..

Yes, looks great!

Are the 240z and 280z setups really that different? I don't know, but would think they could be adapted since the ride heights are so similar..

I like the air cleaner and the fuel lines look good. You have quite a few lines running around the front of the valve cover. what are they? Sorry for thread jack... FWI I spent some time looking at 0-60 calculators but couldn't find one that gave good results; need to be able to input more detail but couldn't find one like that...

If you let the master cylinder run low on fluid near the end of the bleeding process it could cause this but rare...if the master cylinder burps when you bleed it you let the fluid get too low during bleeding

I thought about the thermostat housing too...

Moved the front clip the other day, was gonna work on it today but things got in the way, maybe tomorrow

Larger in which dimensions?

Are you gonna make the plate thicker on the final units? The sheet you have seems a little thin

Yes I believe so, the 280z tanks have larger diameter supply and return ports than the 240z tank. I haven't tried the swap yet, but I have examples of both here. So I can't comment on what the differences are...

If I was gonna source an ignition in a Z on a budget then I would also go ZX distributor like Marty...if I was willing to spend money I would either go to an ignition box like Chickenman describes or 123ignition like MikeW did...

Somebody else can chime in but I would source another crank. The balancer is important and if it comes off at rpm, bad things happen

I am sure that contributes. Anyone running an RB motor or any of the other popular EFI swaps probably looks to the early EFI S30 tanks as the easier way to make that happen. That is one reason I would consider all options to salvage the tank you have...

I ran a pertronix on a custom chevy 350, when it died and left me on the interstate, I replaced it with another system and never went back.

Because the Alum isn't selective, it will attack the block as aggressively as it attacks the stud. It would work on an aluminum intake but ZH was referring to the cast exhaust manifold, I believe, which would also be attacked by the Alum.

I believe the fuel tanks are different too. That is why the 76 tank is preferred when going EFI or L28ET in an older car, it is a direct swap...

I thought that might be MikeW's Z in the background, beautiful car. As for the cost of nix240z nla parts. for starters, they are NLA! So he has to re-engineer them from acceptable used parts. There is a lot of work and tools needed to come up with finished parts. Vacuum pumps, vacuum chambers, materials for molds and rubber for parts. When you're production volume is low the corresponding prices are gonna go up. He's not gonna get rich making low demand parts for 240z's but I am glad they are available!

That was really cool! Corroded the stud right out of the aluminum. If I heard him correctly, he used Alum...

So $86,000 with 10 days to go and the engine could bring $59,000. I can think of several cars I would like to have and still have change left over...

I would love to have a late 80's 911. I love the way they drive, but I think the parts would eat me alive. Maybe one day but maybe not...