jfa.series1

Getting the correct ratio of beer to product is very important, not easily mastered by all. I'd say you ace'd it!!!

A tiny dab of anti-seize on the threads of each flare nut will help them seat easier. Any sideways pressure on the threads will encourage them to quickly cross-thread. As Zed says - get them square to their bore hole! Anti-seize should allow you to finger-start each nut.

Check out the plate on the driver's side door pillar above the latch. It will have your VIN and date. You'll find a similar looking plate in the engine bay, right side shock tower - that one will have your VIN and engine block #. The block # on the engine is located just below the head about cyl. #5 right side.

+1 on Hardway's welcome. You've already earned an "Exceeds Expectations" rating by including some great pictures on your first post. You'll get a couple of extra "attaboys" for sharing the VIN and build date. Your car has so very many things RIGHT with it that it should be easy to address the aging items. Replacement sill plates for the hatch are available. The very early cars are a treasure to all of us so you will have a bunch of voyeurs following your every move. Stay the course on a conservative approach and you'll fall in love with the results. Everyone here know all the tricks and where to find stuff - all you have to do is ask. Jim

Most or all current blades use a small metal spring clip to keep the rubber blade in the frame. That clip will keep the blade firmly locked in your OE frame - been there, done that. I also have OE arms and frames.

No such brackets on my car, they may have been added by a PO for ???

Welcome to the group. These cars are super simple to re-assemble if you take your time and go after it with a plan. Among the many on this forum who have done this very thing, here are a few thoughts. Are you completely satisfied with the paint, body status (any rusted panels, ...etc.)? If not, get that attended to first. Then look to the suspension - bushings, shocks, springs, brakes, half-shaft u-joints, bearings, ...etc. You can completely drop and reinstall the front suspension as a unit while the engine is out. When all is in order, you will have a really good roller. Then get the fuel tank and hoses back in. Next up, check out the wiring while everything is accessible - especially the engine bay harness. Get your rebuilt or new clutch and brake masters installed and all the small items around the engine bay. Get new grommets for everything coming thru the firewall. While the dash is out, make sure everything is in good shape with the heater, water **** valve, and hoses. Get the dash back in and electricals hooked up, then the steering. Offline you can be working on the engine, clutch and tranny situation - they will be the last items installed and go back in as a unit. The radiator goes in after the engine. This is a highly simplified sequence of reassembly but hopefully enough to give you a bit of an idea on where to get started. Keep us updated on your progress, pictures are always welcomed. Everyone will be glad to chime in along the way to help you stay on a good path. Good luck, Jim

His profile lists only a '71 model.

Buy generic replacement blade assemblies at your local auto store, strip out the rubber and insert it into your metal blade frame. Toss the unused frame into your recycle bin or bag. Easy peasy!

"moonroof" ...really??? All the bids are garbage - one individual placed eight consecutive bids opening at $18k then up to $27.9k. Someone in Beverly Hills is trying to run a bit of a scam and we all know there are always fools with too much money and too few brains.

Looks like pretty normal wear for a wheel - either Series 1 or 2. FWIW - I have a completely refinished Series 1 wheel and also a Series 2 wheel for sale. Horn electrical components included but not the horn button. Either one is $225 including ground shipping within the U.S. Detailed pictures available, PM me with your email address if interested.

Hey JPW - That's a pretty nice looking ride. Bring it by the Z Club of Texas monthly meeting next week - July 17, in Addison and introduce yourself. Check us out on the web and Facebook (link at bottom of the home page): Z Club of Texas Looking forward to meeting you. Jim

Mine is exactly 2 3/4" along the centerline from the bottom of the emblem to the front edge. I think all the cars had this emblem.

In the "Teach a man to fish" theme: here's the link to the online parts catalog for the P/N's you need now and in the future. Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z Parts Manual

This is what you have to deal with AFTER you get the A/C components out of the way. The squirrel-cage housing pretty well blocks all access to the hose clamps, hoses, and water ****. The housing is bolted to the firewall in at least two places as I recall. As to replacement radiator and heater hoses, stick with pre-bent versions and avoid collapses that will restrict coolant flow. Check out RockAuto for your radiator hoses - excellent values!

Cliff - my engine-to-heater hoses are pre-curved versions from Black Dragon, the short curved hose is from Nissan. As to part numbers, you can easily do your own look-ups with the online catalog: Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z Parts Manual. If that doesn't work, contact the folks at Courtesy. David House is a long-time Z guy and very good at running down parts. He might be able to have parts shipped directly to your dealer from the warehouse and save you shipping costs. Have your VIN and build-date handy for them. Jim

Here's a pic to let you know what the hoses look like with everything else out of the way. Agreed that pulling the dash is a PITA and possibly a step too far. With your A/C in the way, you still have a quite a job ahead of you to clear out the blower assembly to get to the hoses. Get the passenger seat out for some room to work on your back. Don't forget to replace the water **** valve while you're in there. Good luck!

Seller's notes:"... in good condition.";) Old Texas saying" Rode hard and put up wet." Massachusetts car so a lot of rust is likely.

WOW!!! What a beautiful car. Someone did some outstanding work under the hood with all the re-plating, stock hose clamps, ...etc. Glad to see the updated profile pic as expected. Is your face aching from the big grin??? Jim

Looks like an outstanding find - looking forward to an updated profile pic!

Julio - consider filing a small claims court action against the other driver. Getting a judgment against him is no guarantee of getting your deductible back, but having it on his record might just cause him enough grief to pay you back and clear it. Most small claims courts do not involve attorneys so major costs are avoided.

I had heard somewhere that rebuild kits were NLA for the type A transmissions. Wouldn't Wereup be better off locating a type B tranny?

Leaves and other trash can get into the plenum from the grill in front of the windshield and then collect at these two drain points - resulting in rot in the plenum. When it has been good and dry for a while, consider dropping each of these hoses to check that nothing is collected in the plenum above. Another option is to remove the grill and force flush the plenum thru these drains.

Ethanol blends are the scourge of the marine industry, and especially owners of your typical bass boat or similar. The fuel systems are just not designed for the destructive aspects of this fuel. My string trimmer developed a problem and when I tore down the carb I found a small build up just like a sesame seed buried in a fuel passage. The feed holes were too small to admit it, so it formed inside the carb and then blocked the flow. [rant on] The corn crop is predicted to be dismal due to drought conditions and our food costs will be up because of that. But you can rely on big agri-business to keep lobbying for increased federal support and stronger mandates for increased ethanol content. [rant off]

Here's a pic for the guidance from Steve. The vapor return line is on the driver's side frame rail.