jfa.series1

Eric, In the reply box, look for "More Reply Options" at the bottom right and click it. You'll get an expanded reply function with "Attach Files" at the bottom left. The screw on the linkage is used to balance the two carbs so they working in synch. A tool set as in the pic is used. Jim

Nice paint job. You're pretty well on track with a sequence. The new filler neck should be first, then the vent lines to the collection tank. Position the tank as you said and connect the two topside vent lines visible in your photo. Work the tank into position (a floor jack works well) and mate it with the filler neck - don't forget to pre-position the clamp. A bit of grease inside the filler neck really helps. If the new filler neck is too tight, warm it with a heat gun. Finish getting the tank up and secure it with the straps. The small vent and fuel lines on the front can be handled last. I did all this solo on my back until mating the filler neck. A neighbor help stabilize the tank while I fought it into position. So...an extra set of hands can help a lot and getting the car on a lift is a bonus! Good luck.

I had my parts re-plated - took out the spring and retainer before the job. The plastic slide piece would not come out without bending the ears on the part so I didn't mess with it. It was already discolored from age and came back a bit more so from the plating shop. A bit of white paint freshened it up quite nicely.

Here's my fix for the open port on the back of the air filter box: a 7/8" ID rubber foot for a stool from a big box store. I stuck it on my drill and turned it down against some sandpaper to eliminate the distinctive shape. It is an exact fit for the port tube. On the carb linkage question, the good folks at Z Therapy took care of that for me with a very fine wire locking the two pieces together - you have to look very hard to find it!

My wife and I will get in sometime Sunday afternoon or evening the 12th, depart on the following Sunday. Looking forward to meeting folks from this site.

Stunning car, and I really dig the license tag. Well done. I had the good fortune to have a brief visit to Melbourne some years ago. Awesome city and wonderful people, I'm now a devotee of SE Oz Shiraz!

Sweet looking car and great find. Nothing against the mod but I'll counter the electronic ignition item with this: my car has 95k miles, still the original dizzy and fresh points, rotor, ...etc. Its runs great and dependably pulls all the way to high RPM's; it is strictly a street car. For track, AX, or other events the electronic ignition may be the way to go. +1 on the VIN and build date question above.

You're killing me with those garage pics - be still my heart! I've been down the full resto/rebuild path with my car so here's a few quick tips: - don't trust your memory! Bag and tag every nut/screw/bolt/part immediately as it comes off the car. Become the zip bag king of your block. - tag both ends of each electrical connection before they come apart or tag a single end with its function/location. - write down each item to be replaced as soon as you identify it as such. - throw nothing away until after the replacement is fully installed. I fully dismantled my car and then life intervened. When I got back to it 10 years later the above practices paid off big time. Looking forward to your updates.

This link came to me from a friend, I think it will get some discussion going. A little clean-up and it will be ready for the ZCCA Stock class at ZCON. http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4872667717.html

Jan, The usual set-up for the three-piece kit is a tubular profile for the upper piece and a pair of flat profile pieces for the lowers. I think the one-piece version carries the tubular profile through all the way but you might want to confirm. I did not like the OE approach as it did not adequately seal along the sides. The one-piece version was not available at the time, I made my own with two additional uppers to carry the tubular profile all the way down the drip rails. I don't know where the one-piece is available but I think you'll find it more satisfactory. Jim

Given the info you have on-hand, it looks like your car still has the original engine. If the PO cannot supply you with the original engine plate, you can pick up a replacement at Banzai and stamp your VIN and engine number. You'll also want to locate four small Phillips-head sheet-metal screws to mount it on the strut tower. Take note of Mike's request for a copy of your title when ordering a new plate. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php

Very nice job and thanks for all the details.

Great write-up. I spotted a used 240Z Nikki pump on eBay for $30 and quickly snatched it. I just ordered the rebuild kit and am looking forward to another project. Thanks for posting all this info!

That's called "cruise control"!!! Looking forward to meeting you after reading all your posts.

Per the ZCON Facebook page, about 35% of the hotel rooms blocked for special rates are now booked. Just sayin'....

FWIW (as Carl tends to say) - the plumbing on my '71 has a 5/16" supply, a 3/16" return, and a 5/16" vent near the coil. The return is connected to the fuel rail so I don't quite understand your comment on "go out to the regulator and back to the tank with the carbs taking what they need". Is this info you were looking for?

Blue - I posted a "anyone going" question on the CTZCC site back on 01/05 and have no responses yet. Folks from several clubs in that general area usually monitor their site, maybe they just all shut down due to the cold!

Mike - PM sent.

Here's a link to the contact folks, I'm sure someone can answer your questions. Please post any info you get. http://zccazconvention.com/conventions/2015/?page_id=23

Something like this??? The judged car show is going to be downtown on Beale Street, good opportunity to be a bit weird. http://www.amazon.com/California-Costumes-Mens-Black-Size/dp/B003JH8TFO/ref=sr_1_5/187-6381913-4049603?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1420650698&sr=1-5&keywords=elvis+costume+adult

I haven't seen much here about ZCON lately and since registration is now open here's the big question: WHO'S GOING??? This is a big one - 45th anniversary and all, and centrally located for a nice change. Yeh, I know - Memphis in July may not be all that attractive. I think it would really be great for fellow members of this site to make arrangements to meet and get personally introduced to each other at ZCON. Being able to associate faces to "handles" would be fun for past threads and future stories. Shucks - we could even work on a group picture! The hotel is booking quickly so if you're planning on going and have not yet made your arrangements - get on it! Hope to Z'ya there.

Tomo - the earlier cars have a similar piece around the door openings, although it is not plastic - more of a coated spring metal. That's called the welting and the Kia Sportage piece has the welting incorporated with it so no bare rubber is visible from inside. The Kia welting looks virtually identical to OE - been there, done that.

Don't overlook the coil or coil wire as a possible culprit. A coil usually fails completely but you might be getting intermittent HT performance at the source.

Some very tacky comments about 920 Safari Gold. Non-stock seats and steering wheel, possible half-cap on the dash. http://www.tradenetclassics.com/vdp.php?classics=1970-Datsun-240Z-&id=96769

Several sources show Centric #160.88031 as the re-man unit. You might search for this if you strike out on getting yours rebuilt. Have you checked with brake shops in your area? A few years ago a re-build was about $100-125 in the Dallas area.