jfa.series1

Regarding import fees, when I placed the order the agent replied that a value of $50 and wording "Bumper for test" would be on the pkg. I'll have updates as soon as it arrives.

First - a BIG WELCOME to the group. If you have not already figured it out, we're all a bunch of dedicated and sometimes crazy Z enthusiasts who are always looking for someone new to play with. From the few pics you supplied, your car looks to be uncared for but pretty well unmolested - that's great. You can expect to get solicited and sometimes unsolicited advice as in my comments below. Bag and tag EVERYTHING as soon as it comes off the car. Don't wait till later, you'll forget some details. Be specific - sometimes a single bolt or screw needs it own bag and tag. Markers can rub off of zip bags, use paper notes inside the bag. Discard nothing until the replacement is installed and working OK Keep a running list of things to be replaced while you are pulling those things off, again - don't wait to write it down. Why is all this important? I tore my car down in 1999 intending to do a full resto but did all of the above during the process. Life chose to intervene and it was 10 years later that I was able to pick up the project. Fortunately my well documented zip bag collection and list of needs paid off big time. P.S. - I spotted a bunch of OE hose clamps in your engine bay. Treat them gently and plan to re-use them. They're highly desired and a darn sight better looking than most aftermarket clamps. Good luck with your project.

The bumper is $230, shipping $120, PayPal fee $17, for a total of $367. The shipping time was estimated at ~10 days to delivery. WAAAAHHHHHH - I hate waiting, I want it NOW!

Update: the order has been placed and money changed hands, now the wait begins.

This CA posting came up yesterday in the Dallas CL listing. Interesting unsigned "letter" in the pics that claims the resto work on this car made it the prototype for the Vintage Z program. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/1971-datsun-240z/6599259994.html

I don't know that all OE bumpers exactly matched the curve of the rear valance. My OE bumper has the same 1/2" gap at ends, about 1/8" gap in the middle. The aftermarket bumper center piece would not even bolt up due to the interference with the valance - and that was using my OE mounting brackets. I toyed with spacing it out with washers only to realize that was also moving the side piece mounts rearward - aarrrggghhhh! I'd say you have a perfectly fitted bumper.

I had previously purchased a rear bumper from Futofab as @grannyknot mentions. It had two fitment problems - the arc of the center section was too shallow and hit the body and the mounting point on the right side did not line up with the hole in the body. I contacted Dave Patton and he asked me to shoot a set of measurements of the arc across the rear panel and my OE bumper (now painted). I returned the bumper and Dave gave me a full refund, including shipping. He also took measurements of early cars available to him and fed the info back to mfrs. He initially expected the revised bumper to be available last fall and later by the first of this year. That has not happened and Dave told me to keep checking his site as it shows the bumpers to be on backorder, arrival TBD. The folks in Vietnam say they have quick delivery (~10 days) so I'll probably pull the trigger on one of theirs. I'll share results when I get the unit.

@bonsi Thanks for the feedback and pics. These look like the same products.

I'm interested only in the rear bumper, they quoted $230 plus $120 shipping for a total of $350 USD. Quite a discount from the Harrington source.

This organization posted to the Datsun 240Z Classifieds page on FB yesterday. Does anyone have experience with their products? In addition to the pictured stainless steel 240Z bumpers with rubber strips, they also offer the bumper without rubber (and the holes) per an email exchange I had with them. Looking for some feedback on quality and fit. Thanks, Jim http://bumperautomobile.com/

Not my car but one of my R&R (Rescue & Refurb) projects: a 240Z grill retrieved from a salvage yard car. Full disassembly, damaged vertical struts were replaced with parts purchased from another member, stripped to bare metal, multiple primer coats. wet sanding, assembly, color and clear coats. Whew! This one will go up for sale at some point. Many thanks to @CanTechZ for all the research on the OE-like finish for the grill and rear finisher, see this thread:

FYI... here's my set-up sans the emissions bits courtesy of Z Therapy. Keeping the stock air filter box also lets you keep the carb overflow connections. Note the boot covering the air pump connection behind the front carb - if you don't cover that opening, the carbs will be pulling completely unfiltered air and debris through it.

That's exactly the way it works!

Awesome international teamwork!

FWIW - my engine (all of it) is original to the car. It has P30 block with a E31 head.

As always - your car, your choices. Consider this in electing to ditch the factory air filter box: - you'll be giving up the factory designed air horns in the air filter box; - as you've stated, you're also giving up the natural connections for the flow guide valve and the valve cover hose. - the new valve cover filter will eventually saturate with oil vapor and drip onto the manifolds, then you have to add an unsightly catch can. The factory air filter box may not look sexy but it does a darn good job of what it was designed for. if you change your mind and keep it, block off the lower middle opening that connected to the air pump with a 1" rubber chair leg boot from a big box store. Been there, done that. Just my thoughts that you requested. Jim

Lots of clues that it is a Series 1 car: sail panel, hatch, steering wheel. That would tend to rule out a 5/71 build date. Too bad he did not list the VIN he referred to.

What a beautiful and elegant award. Well done - you make the brand proud!

FWIW - I've got one of zclocks quartz converted units installed, purchased from MSA a few years ago. Great product and highly recommended.

Celebrating 47 years together today. It did not start out as a "forever car", it just worked out that way.

There is no "frame" for S30's (240Z/260Z/280Z) - they are unibody cars as stated earlier. If your front rails/fenders/etc. are shot your best bet is a replacement front clip from a donor 280Z.

I've been running this oil since the rebuild a few years ago. Also, its one of the few oils available with high zinc.

Getting ready for Spring with some fresh fluids installed today.

...and you would know that because...?

The Kia weatherstrip has a more flexible bulb than the PRP piece. Therefore it has more give when the door is closed. Also, it comes attached to the welting that covers the body seam around the door opening. Whether your buy the Kia product used (salvage yard) or new you'll get an easier door closing effort. Been there, done that!