jfa.series1

The lower one in the pic is correct for your car.

You don't say where you are located but try and find one or two classic vehicle clubs in your area - any make car or truck. With enough trying, you'll get to owners who can get you local referrals.

Many thanks for all the constructive comments and suggestions. I've been running the AC Delco Friction Modified transmission lube for some time, great product and it has provided a significant improvement in shifting. I suspect I have a bearing problem, primarily occuring on cold start situations. Anyway, I'll move forward on tracking down components. With the recent change to the de minimus rule, it looks like most offshore shipments are now on hold pending guidance from the feds. ☹️

There is a possibility my original 4-speed may need a rebuild. It is my understanding that rebuild kits for the type "A" transmission are NLA, at least in the US. Some questions for our talented membership: Are any of the components of the "B" kit usable in the "A" transmission? Has anyone identified susbstitute components - bearings, bushings, synchros, ...etc.? Roadster parts? Any thoughts on where else to search for a type "A" rebuild kit? I really want to keep my driveline orignal. Swappng to a type "B" transmission is undesireable due to the potential for damage to the console and underlying body to accomodate the change in the shift rod location. I'm open and welcoming to any comments, suggestions and recommendations. Thanks, Jim

Sorry, I no longer have these antennas.

This is in regards to a hazard switch body, not a relay.

Be EXTREMELY cautious in bending any of the tabs, go slowly with very little pressure. The body is pot metal and breaks very easily. Ask me how I know. 😉

Ditto.

And if you decide to pursue auxillary lighting, here is the factory wiring Easter Egg just waiting for that switch in the dash. Remember, if you go this route you will want to install relays and larger gauge wiring to actually power the lights.

Both of those links are variations of the Registry PDF I posted back in June. To the best of my recall, the version I posted is the original format that was active at the time I added my car. This version includes the original engine # where known and a column for replacement engine info. Because it was an active online spreadsheet a user could modify the report format to suit their taste. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/69433-2015-2020-online-registry-spreadsheet/#comment-676812

Yup, I now recall the hood was pranged and repaired many years ago.

One more vote for the Wesco Roadster Retractable belts. You definitely want the 11" extention. I used only the OE bolts all araound, did not requre the hardware kit.

Apologies will never be necessary when one is caring for family and self. I am so very glad to see you back with us, your humor and knowledge have been sorely missed. For those of you who know them, here is a pic from ZCON 2015 when my wife and I were fortunate to make the in-person acquaintance of Philip and Janet. What a grand time we had hanging out with this couple and others from the classiczcars group.

With the hood and bumper installed this is the best I can get for pics, hope this helps.

At the request of @Yarb here are some details on my pop rivet install of the squeegee rubber on the belt molding. Background: When I was doing my car 14 years ago, replacement squeegee rubber was not available but Black Dragon had complete belt molding assemblies available at a great price. The molding was excellent but it was straight and not curved to fit the pinchweld on the top of the door. After several tries it was obvious the new molding would not easily curve into the required shape and I was not going to risk damage to a fresh paint job. So... I removed the squeegee strip with its thin metal backplate still stapled in place and installed it on my OE molding with 1/8" pop rivets spaced about every 4 1/2" at the staples. The backside of the pop rivets does not interfere with the fit onto the pinchweld.

If the worst should happen and you damage the filler tube I have a used one in excellent condition that I will let go at a very resonable price.

Ha! That links back to a post I did almost 7 years ago about using pop rivets to secure the sqeegee rubber to the belt molding, similar to how I did the replacment fuzzy strips to the door panel. @Patcon Charles, If you need some info I can pull off a molding and get some pics of the pop rivets.

Charles, here are some pics of the belt molding and squeegee rubber on my car. Hope this helps with your question and yes, the rubber does trim out inside the window frame.

A true beast, so very well thought out. Awesome work! Safari Gold rules!!!

Thanks Guy, but I am disinclined to follow someone else's work in this case. In his ebay post I noted that he "modified" plastic connectors and the metal base. With all of the switches I have refurbed I have not yet found a need to modify the OE components - sometimes replaced with new or from the parts bin but never modified.

Per the recommendations from @Zed Head , here are two excellent upgrades you can make to improve your lighting situation: Headlight relay kit: https://www.thezstore.com/product/3861/headlight-relay-upgrade-harness-70-73-240z Parking light relay kit: https://www.thezstore.com/product/5031/parking-light-upgrade-harness-70-73-240z Take note of the fitment limitation regarding the Parking Light kit for the '73 240Z. Another improvement you can make is to switch out all of your small exterior bulbs to 3W LEDs. This would be front parking and turn signal, sidemarkers, rear tail light and brake, license. If you do so, rememebr to use LEDs that are the same color as the lens cover. If making this change for the turn signals, you will also need to swtich the OE flasher cans for the turn signals and hazard switch to aftermarket electro/mechanical units, a easy plug-and-play change. Your turn signal issues are possibly caused by the heat from high resistance in your wiring circuits: corroded bulb sockets, fouled terminals in the wiring, damage at the fuse block (check the underside), damaged wiring. Hope some of this helps.

Yet another body blow to Nissan USA: ABC NewsNissan recalls over 480,000 vehicles in the US and Canada...Nissan is recalling more than 480,000 of its vehicles across the U.S. and Canada due to potential manufacturing defects that could cause engine failure

Actually, the report is in VIN sequence, column #2. The six-digits in column #1 are the registry numbers.

Ten years ago I came across a online spreadsheet called the "2015-2020 Datsun 240Z Registry of America". Someone set it up so that owners could register the details of thier car. Why it was bracketed as 2015-2020 I have no idea. Anyway, I was the 32nd entry and it grew to about 600 entries. In 2021 I captured a PDF of the file and sometime later discovered that the online file had disappeared. The PDF is interesting to browse as it lists VIN's, orginal engine numbers, colors, owners, locations, ...etc. It has some HS30's and S30's listed at the end. The earliest VIN is #23, owned by Chris Visscher in the Netherlands. Check it out, maybe you'll find some interesting info about your car or one owned by a buddy. 240Z Master Registry.pdf

Interesting that there was no decal on my 12/70.