jfa.series1

Arden, FWIW, here's a pic of my car taken in 1999 just before I tore it down for the resto. I'd say your test spray is pretty well on target. Jim

At least there will be bits and pieces that can benefit others down the line.

Ha! Given the starting point, there weren't too many options. At least one, possibly two coats of color overspray. Hoping to get this one good enough to go back in service somewhere.

Ready for primer!

IIRC, the bolt on the tie rod end is a taper fit into the steering arm. If you're not replacing the tie rods, put the nut back onto the thread before you whack on it. And... no, there is no bushing missing. The grease boot on the tie rod end usually expands to fill the gap.

That's a joke, right? I'm still soaking the two you included in the pkg., the nuts are well frozen to the threads but I'm hoping to get them free to have as spares. Canadian salt, eh? At least the four originals with this grill all came loose OK and will get well protected as part of the refurb. BTW - the vertical bars cleaned up very well with the sand blaster.

Not my car - some of my my rescued partZ. Working to rehabilitate a 240Z grill. A friend has a blasting cabinet so I was able to get all the small pieces easily cleaned up. The blades are too long for the cabinet, getting stripped with a drill motor and sanding wheel (not disc). Original paint plus one or two additional layers.

Since posting this earlier today I've determined I have two units covered by the recall - one for the home, one in the car. Be safe folks, check out those fire bottles! The process from Kidde will be to send me replacement units and instructions on what to do with the old ones.

I don't recall seeing this in a current post, so here is some important info for all. If you have a fire extinguisher in your home, garage, shop, car, or wherever, pay attention to this recall notice. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2017/kidde-recalls-fire-extinguishers-with-plastic-handles-due-to-failure-to-discharge-and

Yeah Baby - Safari Gold rules! Charles - thanks for the notice.

In addition to the FSM as recommended by Steve, here's a pic that might help with the routing, ...and yes, I managed to score some new Nissan vent hoses a few years ago before they became unobtainium.

FWIW - Here's a pic of the topside of my tank that shows the location of the three vent lines.

Same set-up on my engine.

Another classic aux. lamp is the Cibie' 35 series - they were available with either driving light or fog light lens. The good ones had chrome metal backs, I seem to recall cheaper models with black plastic backs.

You know you want to do it.

Make sure you can find suitable 15" tires before getting wheels. The selection of 15" tires is small while there are many choices in 16". Konig Rewinds in 16X7 are popular, have the zero offset perfect for Z's. Keep in mind the OE tires had a 24.75" diameter - try to find a tire with similar diameter to avoid speedometer error.

Dang - if it was in the Dallas area, I'd be all over it. So many treasures that could have a second life!

Cliff - I have one with the same mount. I have it on the forward side of the right side shock tower, mounted upright. Its an easy reach from the driver's seat, is not in the way when putting stuff in the rear deck area. Jim

Just so you have correct info, Nissan did not offer speakers in this location - what you have were added by a previous owner. With that said, the panels the speakers are mounted to are generally referred to as "kick panels". A matte black repaint would be pretty accurate.

I think I just got wet reading this!

You can probably mask the handles, suggest you try to block them in the up/lifted position to get max. access to the recess in that area. The SS strip along the door top is the squeegee strip, it can be popped up and off the door.

While you have the inside hatch panel off, why not remove the dovetails and the rest of the hatch hardware - dovetail down stoppers, latch striker. license plate light screws. This is what those parts can look like if completely refurbished with fresh plating. Even if you don't replate, you can still get everything thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, paint spray before you put it all back together. The same goes for the door latches and strikers.

On your question 1: Remove the hatch latch (external bolts/screws). To get to the hatch lock mechanism, remove the inside panel. The plastic rivets have a core that must be pushed thru before the rivet can be lifted out - expect to lose some of the cores, replacement rivets are available. The hatch lock is secured in place with a rectangular "C" clip of spring metal. The door locks are similarly held in place with spring clips. Remove the inner door panel and with the window up you might be able to access the locks for removal. If not, you're looking at removal of the window frames and windows to get to the handles and locks. Some folks can pull windows without removal of the frames, I'm not that talented. As to front and rear glass, GENTLY remove stainless trim from the gaskets with a flat blade - putty knife, plastic body trim tool, ...etc. It bends VERY easily, be careful! If the gaskets are aged and brittle its best to cut them out. Do not use any kind of blade against the edge of the hatch glass to lever it out of the gasket. If you're going this far, consider removing the quarter glass altho that requires removal of interior panels to get to the retaining screws.

What he said. For reference, this is my OE vinyl as it was going back into the car.