jfa.series1

Thanks for the link. Need a few replacements, I just ordered a group of five.

From grunge to glitter! Next up - Dremel wire brush to clean out all the insides, then wet sand final prep for handoff to the plater. I was pretty lucky with this group, only one body had a couple of dings and only one had any serious patina issues.

I have a grommet assortment box from Harbor Frieght, found a size that works well. I do open the center hole with a drill bit to handle the connectors. You probably don't have HF in Canada but likely a similar outlet.

@S30Driver - any recommendations?

Not to my knowledge. Our good friend @S30Driver has substituted modern switches with a metal toggle with success.

I pulled this nest of inspection lights out of the garage attic stash yesterday. By moving quickly, I was able to get them de-fanged before any harm was done! ?

The VIN on the BAT car is 4684 which puts it in the right range for the early style air filter. The OE metal fan on my car was a creamy white - not bright white.

Yes, I noticed the higher attach points on this shield when I had it, could never figure out why. The same goes for the unique fuel rail I have that has different mounting tangs and a much larger opening for the fuel return orfice.

A while back I picked up a large group of used parts that included several heat shields. One of them was unique in that it had no notch for the heat riser tube to the air filter (1st pic). In checking with some friends, I got a comment from Carl Beck suggesting that the heat riser was added somewhere around VIN 6,000. It was the heat riser feature that caused the air filter change for the butterfly flap. All the parts catalogs I've seen only show the heat riser version of the heat shield - one of those constant improvements in the production cycle. So... assuming Carl is correct on the VIN change, your car has the early version of the air filter. Check your heat shield to see if it has the notch.

Caught this video yesterday - parts nirvana!

Completely refurbished, PM if interested.

Keep in mind the shorter bars are for the usual position of the bumper brackets on a 240Z. Since your car is a 280Z the conversion brackets may not be in the same location. If you don't want to cut the grill bars, consider disassembling the grill and swapping short and long bars to accommodate where your bumper brackets are located.

A 240Z grill has the lower three bars shorter at each end to allow for the bumper brackets. Does your grill look like this?

These are the replacement seat covers I purchased and installed about 10 years ago - pictured with the original covers for comparison. They came from Seatz, a company in CA, probably the most "original-like" covers available at that time. He does not sell retail. The last I heard he was selling thru MSA - a call to them would be in order to confirm. I used a hog-ring kit to install and similar to @240260280, added some sections of 1/2" thick upholstery foam to beef up various areas of the seats.

That kit is listed under the 240Z parts. I used the same kit to rebuild a 240Z 'Denki.

Check this link to see if he still has the 'Denki kit, note he also has valves listed below the kit. http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-exterior2.html

The heat riser mount (#3), flex tube and hose clamps (#1) are important to restorers. I'll be glad to buy them from you - I refurbish and sell parts. Having the snorkel open at point #1 is not a problem for airflow but you could cap it if aesthetics are an issue. I recommend you not cut this section off the snorkel as it can create an appearance issue.

Jess, The air filter attaches to the SU's and the heat shield attaches to the intake manifold, so no loss of functionality there. In removing the stock exhaust manifold you lose the air pump manifold and the heat riser attach point. The rest of your smog equipment is all around the balance tube and carb linkage, it can be left in place or removed as you choose. There is no functional connection between the air pump and the rest of the smog pieces around the carbs. Jim

The bumper actually conceals this indentation. No worries - proceed with your install.

Consider using an escrow account for any long-distance purchase.

https://zclocks.com/ Looks sharp!

+1 on the @siteunseen comment. That color is also used for restoring the grill and rear finisher. The secret is the use of the matte clearcoat to eliminate the gloss in the color coat. Here's a close-up of the color on a grill resto.

So... I'm credited with giving you encouragement? ☺️

View Advert 260Z Fuel Rail Fuel Rail for a 260Z. Stripped, straightened, polished and professionally replated in yellow zinc. There is a bit of extra iridescence at the nozzles, otherwise excellent condition. $150 includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal. PM if interested, thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 01/24/2020 Price $150.00 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert 240Z Fuel Rail Fuel Rail for a ’69-70 240Z (will fit later models). Stripped, straightened, polished and professionally replated in yellow zinc. This rail had been handled a bit roughly in a prior life, the long tubes have very slight waves. It is in good condition, suitable for a driver or local show car. $150 includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal. PM if interested, thanks Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 01/24/2020 Price $150.00 Category Parts for Sale