beermanpete

Check the free play in the clutch pedal at the master. The shorter pushrod could be creating too much free play and wasting pedal stroke on taking up the free play instead of moving the clutch. Also, the throwout bearing collar is a common source of problems. If the new pressure plate is a different height than the old one you could have a problem there.

It sounds like the collar is too long. It sucks but others have there. I know I have. When you get the new parts, compare them to the existing parts. Hopefully you will get a different length collar or a differnt height pressure plate. Check them for total distance to the flywheel surface as shown in the photo contained in post #35 in the link provided by Zed Head above. When you put the trans bac kon the engine the release arm should be able to move freely a bit before it contacts the collar and TO bearing. Once you are done, Keep the spare collar for the next time you replace the clutch in case you get a different height pressure plate.

One common place to get tripped up is the throwout bearing collar. There are several different length collars and the length must match the presure plate you use. If the collar is too long it can hold the clutch in a partially released position. conversely, if hte collar is short the clutch will not fully release when you press the pedal down. to check this you must remove the engine and/or transmission. When the clutch is engaged (foot off the pedal), is there a lot of force on the push rod at the slave cylinder? Can you press the slave piston back into the bore at all?

Two things come to mind: First, it could be too rich. Are the plugs wet with fuel? Do you smell a lot if fuel while trying to get it running? Second, check the ingnition timing. It could be very late. If you still have points you can dead time it. Double check the timing mark on the damper as well to be sure it is actually correct. They can slip and drive you crazy.

Redline MT-90 or Brad-Penn Multi-purpose Classic. Both are GL-4.

The plugs look ok to me. The modern unleaded fuel does not color the plugs as much as the leaded fuel of 60s did.

The cam timing issue dose not have any affect on the ignition timing. You need to verify TDC without using the marks on the crank pulley to validate the timing marks on the pulley. Try using a long thin rod O(screwdriver) placed through and held by hand in spark plug hole in #1 cylinder. Turn the cracnk by hand slowly and feel the piston movement. Stop when the piston is at the top then look at the timing marks. This is not a super accurate method but should get you within a degree or two if you are careful. If the timing marks are off make a new mark and then check the ignition timing with your new timing light. Also, if the marks are off it indicates a problem with the harmonic damper. Place a mark across the damper/pulley faces that spans the rubber layer. Monitor the line over time to see if the inner and outer parts move and cause an offset in the line indicating a failure of the bond between the rubber layer and the metal parts.

I have used Red Line with good results. MT90 for the transmission and 75W85 GL5 for the differential. I have also used Brad Penn 80W90 GL4 for the transmission with good results.

The Z Store has new short-throw shifters. This one might work: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22c01/20-1054 Call them and ask about other options.

That part is not a meter shunt, at least not a factory one. The 240Zs all have direct reading ammeters, no external shunt. The 260/280 shunts have two fuses, one on each side of the shunt. The ground wire that was on the mystery part; does it go to ground (car body, etc.) or to a component? Perhaps it needs to be grounded?

As Blue said, the factory tachs have an adjustment. It is a trimmer on the back of the tach. Use a thin flatblade screwdrive to make the adjustment. You might need to remove the tach to get good access. The wires are long enough to run the car with the tach loose. Use a known good service tach and adjust the factory tach to match.

Ported vacuum for the spark advance is the correct connection on the Z (and most cars).

You can get the service manuals here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html The float valve could simply be held open due to the flaot being "glued" down from old fuel that dried out while the car was sitting. Start by opening the float bowls and cleaning all the old fuel out. Check the float valves for wear and adjustment while it is apart.

15X7, zero offset, with 205/50-15 fits fine on our 73. No rubbing, no rolling fenders, it simply fits.

As Patcon said, you can easily make a new pipe. The end that goes into the exhaust manifold has a compression bead to seal it. The other end, as shown in your photo, has a flare. Both easy to deal with. Replacing the pipe is likely easier than eleminating the EGR system, but elemination of the EGR is fine if you do not need to have periodic inspections.

The vacuum advance is usually connected to ported vacuum and only needs to connected to one carb. The ports in your photo (not drilled on 4 of the 6 runners) are manifold vacuum and will result in full vacuum advance at idle.

It sounds like you could have a lot of dirt in the fuel system. Have you cleaned the fuel tank? The poor cruise that improves on accel sounds like to much fuel (rich). Check the float height or fuel level in both carbs. Make sure there is no fuel dripping from any of the discharge parts at idle.

Check the wattage ratings on the bulbs while you have them out to clean the sockets. If they are over-sized they will draw more current than the original/specified bulbs and could overload the fuse.

I think the evap sytem uses a fuel tank vent at each corner of the fuel tank so no matter what there is always a vent open above the fuel level, even if the tank is full and the car is parked on a slope. When the evap system is working as designed, air is adimitted in through the cap but vapors are only allowed to exit through the guide valve and into the charcoal canister for storage, to be burned off in the engine when started later. If you are actually having vapor lock problems, adding an electric fuel pump at the rear of the car will help.

Yes. The A cam tends to make power at a higher RPM range than the C cam. My experience is the A cam will pull to 6k or so, the C cam pulls to about 5k. I can't say one will make more total power than the other but the higher RPM range of the A cam could feel like more just due to the RPM range difference.

Which cam are you using? The cam from the N47 (C cam) or the cam from the E31 (A cam)?

If you mean the triangle shaped tank above the fuel filler, it is a liquid/vapor separater for the evaporative recovery system.

When the reaction disk is missing the brakes feel unusually light and the pedal is low but otherwise seem ok at very light braking. When getting on the brakes more than a bit it gets grabby and unpredictable. Correctly working brakes feel pretty much like any car with vacuum assisted brakes: Smooth, even, and easy to modulate. The pedal height should be about even with the throttle pedal (at idle) when braking is light to moderate.

A few laps at Buttonwillow Raceway this past weekend.

Perhaps this thread will help you interpret the ammeter reading (or lack thereof): http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114701-how-do-i-interpret-the-amp-meter/