Zed Head

Don't forget what happened to rossiz's head from Al. California Datsun and Datsun Parts LLC are the same company. Triple check all work before using it. If the head has been laying around, odds are it was built before the lash pad problems were solved (if they have been).

You should start your own, new, thread. This is bartsscooterservices's build thread. Click "Start New Topic" on the right... http://www.classiczcars.com/forum/63-introductions-and-rides/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forum/61-open-s30-z-discussions/

Thanks for the confirmation. I already picked up a dual action (NC and NO) Siemens/BMW relay with base, at the wrecking yard. Purple. 100 ohms across the solenoid. Since then I wondered if the fuel pump control relay could have been used instead. It seems to be the only NC relay in the 1978 car. Only wondered because I have one. Did you look at that picture in #31? That's the worry. Maybe the water it was submerged in was cold and oxygen-free, and that's why it still works.

When you tighten the gland nut on to the shock body those threads and the strut tube are under tension. In use, the tensile force doesn't change much because the shock shaft just moves up and down inside the assembly. Torquing a shock in to the tube will tell the story. It will probably spread apart and you won't be able to torque it down.

Lowering my 76 ~1.5" had a major affect on handling. Much improved. And a differential mount of the RTz design made the overall gear-shifting operation much more solid and pleasant.

If I read this diagram right, two of the pins on the BWLCR aren't even used and a simple normally closed relay could replace it. Looks it might even be a two way relay, maybe the same one is used in 78, just wired NO instead of NC. I'd take it out and look but seat removal is required, and we'll be up in the 80's today. A common Bosch relay. I can get my current draw back down and cool things off. Might keep the old rusty one there though, just for the history.

I've spent all of these years avoiding the assemblage of odd things that were used to generate electricity and now you've dumped me right back in to it. Rust, corrosion, over-voltage... My bliss is gone. Thanks a lot! I wonder how my fuel pump relay is doing since it's been supplying a pump and an over-voltaged check relay. Might as well rewire the whole car.

classiczcars people! jalexquijano has resurrected this thread, from dead. The last post was October 2012 before he began resuscitation. ~2.75 years ago.

I think that's normal relay pull isn't it. The EFI and fuel pump relay pull the same? Here's a picture. At the time, I was in "just make it work" mode so didn't even look inside the relay. I'd forgotten how bad it looked. Definitely on the fix list now. I think that the electrical tape is there to hold my fuel pump power circuit tap line in place. After I had the car a little while and started parking it outside I found that it had a pretty serious leak through the windshield seal. It probably sat outside and filled with water before I got it. Had a hole under the driver's seat also.

MSA is known for packaging problems, and not caring about it. Only game in town, too bad. I started a thread for MSA. Linked this thread. Hope you don't mind, let me know and I can edit it out.

You need to either remove the vacuum hose from the bottom of the regulator, or measure the pressure without the engine running by removing the yellow wire from the starter solenoid and turning the key to Start. The purpose of the vacuum hose is to maintain a constant fuel pressure from one side of the manifold to the other. So if pressure inside the manifold increases (vaucum drops), pressure inside the fuel system increases. You can also convert inches of vacuum to pressure. 17" = 8.3 psi. 28 + 8.3 = 36.3 psi. Looks good.

Somebody posted about it on Hybridz also but they moved it to their Tool Shed for some reason. Had some more details. Looks like the old "wire me the money and I'll have the car shipped scam". I felt the draw of one of those way back when I was first looking. Low price, need to sell", in the military (lends respectability), can't communicate directly, etc. All of the signs. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123073-scammers-on-z-cara-now/#entry1150782

28 is normal for a running engine. There's a hose from the intake manifold to the FPR that adjusts pressure based on manifold vacuum level. Irrelevant to the leak-down but important to know for future work. It does look like your FPR leaks down. The valve in the FPR is just two pieces of steel that press together. A little bit of rust could cause a leak. If "recently" is three years ago, that might be what happened. No recommendations. I've had luck with the factory FPR's and have since installed a modified Bosch regulator. I'd get one from a local store that will take returns. Swap until you find a good one.

I ran a new fused wire to the fuel pump power supply, at the harness junction next to the passenger seat. So the relay gets powered with the fuel pump. The relay seemed to be the typical Nissan relay, I think I measured 0.3 amps draw while I was trying to figure out what was draining my battery. More worrisome for me is the fact that high water mark under the passenger seat was about halfway up the relay body. Pretty sure it's been wet. That should really be one of my winter projects. The relay, the parallel L circuit, and cleaning up the wire ends that are still poking out of the harness from where I cut off the regulator plug. They're insulated but hanging in space. Mementos of my first modification.

Are you planning a complete restoration and want to get the period (actually VIN range) head on it? A poll of VIN numbers and head ID's might tell the story. If you're doing a restore you might be removing the right head and installing the wrong one. If you're not doing a restore, why replace it?

It bolts on to the cross member that the diff mount is bolted to, but not the diff itself. My guess would be that it's mass is meant to damp the clunk from the diff when shifting. Probably makes the cla(u)nk turn in to a thud. My own theory on the clunk is that it happens when the nose of the diff comes back down on to the cross member after getting lifted during acceleration. There are videos out there that show it lifting and falling while driving. If you look closely at the diff mount when it's in place you 'll see that there's only about 1/8 inch of space between the metal plate of the mount and the edge of the cross member. You can also see that Nissan had a little button of rubber molded in between the two plates to stop them hitting when the plates compress. I have two of those dampers and they make nice anvils, and handleless hammers. Also convenient for when I had to dress a cutoff disc down to a smaller diameter. Overall, the system is an odd collection of thoughts and fixes. The RTz mount is much more effective.

The discussion is about controllable braking in an emergency. And the misnomer of "emergency brake". It's for parking. You're right though, we could have just told him to hit the gym and recommended some exercises. Pull harder!

I don't think that jdmwerks is exclusive. A bit disingenuous. Or jdmwerks and Staggshocks are the same person/company. Here's a link that seems to show where the usage originated. Might get better info there. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117631-new-s30-shock-and-spring-option/ Post #4 is the relevant one. Looks like you could save $25. But customer service might be better with jdmwerks.

I think that most of us were recommending that your drive (propeller) shaft wouldn't be the cause of the vibration. But, who knows. You're caught in the morass of many changed things, and a problem. Have you had the front end rechecked? Who turns just one rotor?

Did you measure the height of the assembled parts. Can't emphasize enough that this will tell the whole story. The slave cylinder and the clutch fork pivot ball have the same relationship on all transmissions, from 71 to 83 for sure, maybe even earlier, because they're both mounted on the transmission case. It's that relationship that determines the fork angle after the transmission is mounted to the engine, and how far the collar and bearing move when the clutch pedal is pressed. I will never install another transmission without verifying that measurement.

External clip u-joints typically have the groove for the clip machined in to the yoke. The Nissan type, internal, have a flat machined in to the yoke fro the clip to sit on, but the groove is on the u-joint bearing cup. So they're not interchangeable. Stole a picture from the ZStore below. I'm with zKars, I think that your first shop may have sent you off on a wild goose chase. May also have screwed something up. Probably started here - "This was after I reported various noises that started after they installed new front pads and turned one rotor. The noises just got worse after they worked on it again, and the vibration started soon after."

I agree, the Datsun hand brake seems really weak,compared to other cars. I remember driving in my friend's new Toyota Celica with another friend who used to enjoy grabbing the parking brake and locking up the back tires while we were driving down the road. And he did this from the passenger seat. He got a lot more enjoyment out of it than the rest of us. Eventually he was extruded from the group (it was high school). I can lock the back wheels on my car but it takes a lot of pull on the lever. Not really conducive to driving it that way.

Words can be fun. If you're on a roll, in the flow, might as well keep going. I realized in my sleep last night that I hadn't measured my gauge wires in the way relevant to the issue. If Nissan was going to make a fail-safe gauge L circuit they would have added resistance across those two wires, in parallel to the bulb filament. So I re-measured this morning, in case there was something hidden in the bulb socket, with no bulb in it, and...still nothing. OL.

It is working correctly. It's a parking brake not an emergency brake.

You wrote all of that, posted it, and didn't need to edit? Maaaan. I'm impressed. I was thinking the same about checking the lights before starting the engine, and often do, but it would be that one busy week that would get me. FastWoman has a 78. Maybe she'll check her circuits for the sake of your sanity. In the meantime, I might just add a second circuit to the L terminal, just for that busy week when I don't check the light. This will also become a recommendation for all future alternator swappers.