Zed Head

You can turn the wheels to full-lock and get a decent view. Stick a camera or phone under there.

The issue of the flailing shaft top comes up occasionally with the guys that run EDIS or COP, since they don't need the distributor anymore. Some cut the distributor drive off. Some install a bearing in the top of the timing cover. Others let it spin in the timing cover hole. I've thought that it would be fine just using the cover hole as support, but design-wise it's not really lubricated and it's steel on aluminum, so that may not be right. Working backwards you'd think that the engineers must have been using the distributor shaft bottom and collar as support for the top of the quill. The distributor has what seems to be a precisely machined and located mount and the slotted collar holds the top of the shaft in place below. So ti's designed as an assembly, I think. The short answer is, it may not matter because the distributor shaft and bearing is doing the work. Don't know, just guessing. The procedure for setting that bottom screw seems right. The 280Z's got rid of the A and the R but they still have a cast-in mark that seems to give spec. timing. But there are no instructions anywhere about how to use it. Maybe it's supposed to be obvious. I dinked around with it when I started running out-of-spec. advance. Tried to get the spark pattern centered or at least all on the rotor electrode so I could be sure I wasn't getting stray sparking to the wrong plug. If you ponder what the distributor is doing during its advance mechanisms, you'll see that the rotor electrode-cap electrode relation moves around quite a bit. I only got half coverage by the time I was done.

Looking at your preceding post, I think that he meant he had the 79 calipers on the rear. My mistake. But still, unclear which disc shields are being discussed.

I have the 1980 5 speed, with 3.9. And my 5th is .773, not .745, like 1983. My car cruises easily at 60 mph for distance. 25.3 inch tires though. The 1983 .745 5th with a 3.54 seems like it would be best for highway cruising. When I had the 3.54 diff, 1st gear felt sluggish, so I went to the 3.9. Basically, the stock 1980 280ZX setup, except for a slightly larger tire. At 60 my car should be at 2400 RPM. Something odd here though. The calculator shows that 3000 RPM at 60 mph with a .745 gear and a 3.54 diff (Diseazd setup), would have an 18" tire. Kind of small. At 60 my car should be at 2400 RPM. 25.3 tire, .773 5th, 3.9 diff.

So this whole discussion, aside from rossiz's post, has been about a modified front brake setup? Shields removed? He said the brakes were fine when it was dry. Don't know why you'd do anything more than try to keep them that way. Add a shield. Don't fix unbroken stuff.

Exactly. You talked about erosion but you're showing different areas, one top and one bottom. And the lines on the bottom are machining lines from when the parts was made. Show the same area before and after, and after rubbing off the black material. No offence, but your pictures don't really show evidence of anything but some black staining.

This calculator seems to have everything. http://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-geareng.aspx Without knowing tire diameter and transmission ratios, you're just comparing peoples' feelings.

Is this process documented somewhere, Nissan-wise? Just curious. It looks like a manufacturing adjustment to me. Set once, never touch again.

My rusty studs cleaned up well but I also ended my experiment early. It didn't loosen the frozen-on nuts either. It's a messy process anyway. Not right for the garage. You didn't show before and after of the same piece of the part. And did you try to clean the "black" from the mount? Might be iron deposits, not etching. 20 minutes is waaayyy too short to see much. Even straight sulfuric acid would take a few or more hours too dissolve the iron. No offense, but most chemistry requires lots of patience. Did you ever talk to your Chem. E. friend? That part is small enough and the area the stud in is set up just right for heating to expand the aluminum. I think that an EZ-out type remover and a torch would get it out. Plus you can fit the whole thing in a drill press to get a good hole drilled. Doesn't shed light on the alum question, but you can still save the part.

I think that the Pertronix electronic module just needs battery voltage on the red, doesn't really mater where it comes from. The black is the grounding circuit, through the module, for the coil negative. I'd just run a tap or extra wire from coil positive. The coil's powered as it was stock, the Pertronix has its voltage and the ground is through the module in to the distributor body. Make sure the distributor has a good ground. You didn't really say why you're changing the wiring you had, It worked before, didn't it? Or never connected? That second screw is a fine tune for where the spark hits the rotor contact, I believe. Orientation of rotor to cap, You could probably look around Google images to see where it usually ends up from the factory. I don't have aPertronix and never have. Just giving your thread a kick.

My mistake. Looks like you can get a 3.54 Subaru diff also. One more variable. Where's the calculator? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105868-subaru-diff-clarification/

I had to copy the text of the ad before it disappears. Too good to let get away. Only 60 minutes left on phone! blah blah blah 1970 Datsun 240Z - $2500 (Dogtown / Hillyard) © craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap 4316 e longfellow (google map) 1970 Datsun 240Z condition: good cylinders: 6 cylinders drive: rwd fuel: gas paint color: blue size: compact title status: clean transmission: manual type: hatchback safety tips prohibited items product recalls avoiding scams lotta interest in this car, the 54th Zcar ever imported into USA. i'm not answering any emails and only have 60min left on my phone, so... the car needs refurbished. the floor is rusted, as are the rear wheel wells. i just put a new clutch in it, and had the original bucket seats redone in gray mohair. has original everything, and yes, it runs. i have all the stuff to restore her, but the car needs a new battery. if interested, text me when you can come by to check her out. michael p smith 4316 e longfellow spokane, wa 99217 show contact info ps i was robbed recently or i wouldn't be advertising this ride for sale. So, no pictures of the car, no further details, blah blah blah. i am firm on the price, too. those who know, who are into cars, this car is a legend. text me, and come see.

I've had my car for a few years and each change is just a new opportunity to optimize whatever I'm working with, which is whatever is available at the time. I had a 76 4 speed with a 3.54, then a 78 5 speed with a 3.54, then an 83 5 speed with a 3.54, the the 83 with a 3.9, then a late 80's with a 3.9. The factory pretty much made the right decisions, except for making the post-80 5th gear taller. If you want a 5th gear for highway cruising, just pick a set of parts that you can deal with and get it done. You'll probably be back in the future, looking for something else. But if you know that you want the STi for limited slip, plan around that. Looks like they only come in 3.9 or 4.11 so a 3.592 might be a wheel stander. 14:1 first gear. http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru+Transmission+Chart

I typically go back to the beginning and rethink what I'm trying to do after I collect a bunch of information. Often I find that my first plan wasn't really feasible. Some things that might help your thinking are the fact that most transmission/diff combinations are chosen by the factory to give about 12:1 first gear ratio, for performance-oriented cars. Below 12 and standing starts start to need more attention. The GL's and other odd options maybe not, but the basic cars are always at about 12. 4th gear is always 1:1 unless you get a non-typical racing old 5 speed. The spread between 1st and 4th is what will give the "close ratio" feel. Racing setups start up in the 2's for 1st gear, for example. Put a chart together of combinations and you'll be able to see right away what the whole project will take. That's just numbers. On the other side, you have availability, difficulty of the work, cost, and quality of the parts. 5 speeds, transmission modifications, rear diff swaps, and new aftermarket axles, as a few things to consider. Hard to recommend. I think that you said you really just wanted a 5th gear. The simple way to get there is a Z or ZX 5 speed and a 3.54 or 3.9 R200 diff. The fact that you've spent so much time on the CA 71C swap though, shows you might really want a more complicated project to work on. That's why my garage is full of parts.

You have square so you're 77 or pre-77, right? Regardless, you want to focus on the head and block codes. N42 and N42 is probably what you have. Exhaust manifolds or headers are designed for square or "round" (not really round but the liners are). You don't want to buy 1978 (N47) exhaust manifold or headers for your square port head. I think that you match the bearings to your crank measurements. Then confirm that your measurements were good with plastigauge. I'm not an engine builder though. Carry on...

Good point. Funny though, I seem to remember noting in the past that the 123 did need more resistance on the primary than even a 1978 280Z for example (hence my "high energy" comment), but the recent instructions give a 1 ohm limit. The system also has an automatic shutoff which I don't recall. Who knows, they may have upgraded the electronics. All good. http://www.123ignitionusa.com/123switch6.pdf http://www.123ignitionusa.com/ p.s. I think/thought that it's "kapisch". But it turns out that it's actually capisce.

I crawled around the web for a while after I thought about the fact that I have a modified bellhousing/case but may not have a 71C to use it on soon (besides my 85 300ZX unit), if things keep going the way they are. I found that the base model Pathfinders, of which there are many, also used the 71C. Still trying to figure out the years but 1995 did for sure. They would be the KA24E (4 cylinder) models. Something to consider if your two state away $100 deal falls apart.

I think the 123 still uses a ballast resistor. It's described in the instructions, I think. Not sure it's a "high energy" electronic ignition, more of a programmable points replacement unit.

I only mentioned it because that fine grit will find a way in if it can. I bought what was supposedly a reman distributor from a CL person and found grit inside when I took it apart. I think that someone blasted the outside and didn't get everything sealed. Probably tear the heck out of synchros and bearings.

Just measured my old 300Zx bell and the relevant parts on the swapped unit, and got 33 3/8 total, also. So looks like you're on the standard swap path. Any of the three writeups should get you there. If you can find a very early short 240Z propeller shaft you'll be one fabrication step ahead.

Better clean all of the cracks and crevices in to the transmission internals. The rear seal is essentially open to the inside, and the vent, and the shifter mechanism. Not to be a Danny Downer. Saw your picture of the transmission and felt queasy.

One option. That would be the short tail-shaft transmission then, I believe. Maybe. Requiring a longer propeller shaft. Wouldn't be a giant surprise. People were modifying the cars soon after they were introduced. 20+ years is only about mid-1990's. All the Z's were old by then. zhome shows that my competition trans comments might be off. But also shows the 720 with a 3.6 first. Could be truncating instead of rounding though. Maybe 3.592 = 3.5. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

Worth is subjective. You haven't given enough information for anyone out here to make an offer. That's what I would do. Post some pictures, get as much information as you can and ask what someone out here might pay for it, if you bought it and decided to resell. Then you'll now where you stand. If you change your mind, you'll know how much profit or loss you might get.

You'd probably be better of with a 240SX or a Toyota Corolla. The Z's don't drift well withhold some modifications. They're too balanced. Also, as far as I can tell, back seats didn't show up until the 260Z. Sounds like an interesting car, but you might not enjoy it.

Might be an old competition transmission. They came with a variety of ratio choices, apparently. There was recent discussion about it. Good news that a simple bearing change will fix it. Although, I've wondered how much bending and twisting it takes to get a bearing cage to pop out like that. Really, it's just there to keep the balls apart. How does it get loose?